How much bottle pressure do you run or do you need.

I put a system on the truck and it acks like you are on,off,on,off the button. I have a 50 shot on it and you can feel it come on and then it is like it cuts off and then back on. It is fast at doing it to. It does not have eney weird sounds in the engine.

 

Your nitrous manufacturer should have direct tech help for you, but unfortunately not everyone can be as good as us.

1) I am assuming your truck runs fine off nitrous?

2) Did you change your plugs or keep the current ones in?

I will guess at this time with the info I have that your plugs are gapped to big and not the right temperature/grade.

 

I am running Denso 22's gap I do not remember. JLP told me what to put them on for my mods.

 

The only thing I can suggest is diagnosing one area at a time and the first part is to see what your plugs are gapped at. You should be at about .035 gap. I doubt your ignition is not strong enough, but this would be another probable cause if the plugs are gapped properly and are in good condition. Most basic problems like the one you explained is ignition related somehow.

What was your bottle pressure anyway? I can't give you a general bottle pressure as it all depends on your jetting combination.

 

before i stepped up to a 75 i ran a 50 and you could feel it.

 

As far as I know the recomended bottle presure is 900 to 1100 #'s.
My bottle heater runs the presure up to 1000#'s and shuts off.
I can feel the 50 shot kick in at 900 or more, but at 800 or less I cant feel it come on.
Best guess is its a spark problem.
About 20 years ago when I was young and dumm I wired a nitrous system using a hot wire going to the windshield wiper motor. It would kick in and out also. Just think of setting your wipers on say a 2 second delay, on, off, on, off!
It took me a month to figure that one out. Of course Iam sure you did not wire into your wiper motor.

 

I've already answered your last question Bro, so I'll ask a few,
what activates your system, Mico Switch, Button, Signal from the TPS, WHAT ?

Is it possible you have an intermittent connection with the Solenoids ?

Are you using any kind of Controller, or Window Switch, etc ?

WATCH OUT, a cutting in and out feeling CAN also be the truck running lean ? (you want to be sure on this on)

My suggestion's,

Pull a plug right after Spraying it, and look closely at it (pic maybe)

DOUBLE CHECK the Solenoid Connection's ?

Double check the Arming Device (whatever your using, and it's connection)

BTW
900PSI is Fine (my bottle maintains that)

And is it possible you got a schitty tank of Nitrous ???
Happen to Super Fords I believe once
(any issues when they filled it ?)

GOOD LUCK BRO, PLEASE KEEP US POSTED

 

With out knowing your bottle pressure this thread is sort of useless..
I'd assuming you dont have a bottle heater?? If you dont have a heater your prssure is going to be low. Since most N2O companys have a "fat" jetting even with good pressure that would make it LOAD up with fuel and do exactly what your discribing.

1) Check bottle pressure..Set between 900-1,100psi
2) Check plugs for proper gap....035 or so.
3) Make sure you have a clean fuel filter
4) Make sure you have good fuel pressure while spraying.
5) Check all the things Rob02 mentioned

I willing to bet your loading up with fuel and that a heated bottle will cure you problems.

Good luck,
Jason Coffman

 

To add to Rob's info. If you have a microswitch, make sure it is activating properly and staying activated. The slightest throttle movement may be de-activating the switch.

 

Thanks for all the help

I have checked the solenoid and it is working fine.

I checked the bottle pressure last night and it was about 800.
That was in the shop and about 80 out side. When I tried the system it was out in the night air about 70 out side. That will lower the pressure to.

I will check the gap on the plugs this weekend.

I am thinking it is bottle pressure because it only did it after I put the 75 shot on. It did not even ack as it had a system at all with the 50.

I have a bottle heater on the way so I will get the perssure up and drop back to the 50 and try it. I also have another bottle of nitrous to try.

 

DEF THE PRESSURE if you tested at night

I tested my original Zex System at night (I believe it was 22 degree's to be exact) YES 22 DEGREE'S, I told you guys, I believe in SAFETY, my truck has to run Detonation free on pump gas, at full power, and in the temps I drive in, I race and drive on the same Computer Program (no race programs here)

I want my truck to run THE SAME on the street as the track

With that said,
Sum, the night I first tested the Zex (65HP jets) I posted here saying NOT IMPRESSED WITH THE NITROUS

People said, ROB YOU NEED A HEATER
I bought one, then tested again
Had a post here saying something like
HOLY MUDDER FRUCKER, THATS MUCH BETTER, WOO HOO,
YIP YIP YIPPY YIA
OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT

BTW
The day I layed down the 501 HP + 615 TQ on the Dyno,
I HAD NO HEATER, BECAUSE I DIDN'T KNOW I WAS GOING TO DYNO

 

A heater helps keep a higher pressure and takes a little less guess work out of the equation, but you can increase the nitrous jet for lower bottle pressures to get the power back. The power is in the fuel, so if you know what fuel jet is supposed to make X amount of power then you can increase the nitrous jet to burn X amount of fuel properly.