Didn't want to hijack his thread, but I did dyno my truck today. Previous mods:

Apten blower
16 psi of boost
PSP tuned Predator (19 degrees of timing)
alcohol injection
CAI
Cat-back, stock exhaust

65 degrees it made 428 rwhp and 498 rwtq (I lost 30 ft lbs with the Apten)

Changes for today:
KB Blower
SCT Racer Pro tuning by me
20 degrees of timing

Temp in the dyno room was 97 degrees! Run started at 3000 rpms and ran to 5400 rpm, boost started at 13 psi and topped at 16 psi (HEAT!)

Todays numbers were 457 rwhp and 549 rwtq. So with 32 degrees warmer air, and less boost for most of the run (the Apten jumped immediately to 15 when floored) I still made about 30 rwhp and 50 rwtq with the KB blower and 1 degree more timing.

My A/F on both these setups is in the mid to upper 10's, mostly due to the alcohol. I believe the rich A/F is allowing me to run 16 psi and 20 degrees on a stock block without spitting the rods out of the motor. I also believe on a matching 65 degree day like the Apten dyno my numbers would be much higher.


Jody

 

Nice number's, hopefully I'll get there some day! I hope I don't line up next to you!

 

nice numbers

 

Thanks! Actually, I'm trying to see how good I can get it on this crummy 91 octane gas. It does present challenges compared to the guys who can get 93/94 octane.

I'm also trying to determine that the vast majority of the guys blowing up the trucks are due to tuning issues; lean condition or detonation. Everyone said that you cannot run 16 psi and 20 degrees of timing on a stock block, but I've had it this way for a while. I do check my A/F and plugs and keep on top of the tune, but I'm not afraid to keep trying to improve it. I'm looking towards the intake/throttle body area next.

Wish I would have waited for cooler weather though. Last night it was making a couple more pounds of boost!

Jody

 

Jody; how is the alky/water injection working for you? Does the truck bogg any when the spray comes on? Do you think it is causing any corrosion problems with the KB?

 

I'm running straight alky now (ethanol which is much less corrosive than methanol). With the water if you hit a hill or high load where the boost would come up but rpms didn't it would stutter slightly. With the alcohol it doesn't as it burns.

I think it's great; guarantee that timing/boost and 91 octane wouldn't mix well at all. Plus you get some octane boost, air temps are lower which is all good on a blower motor.

I have had the blower off once since the alky kit; rotors look perfect. I also ran it on the Apten ported blower for 5-6 months; the rotors looked perfect there too.

Jody

 

Thanks for the info; I might be going that route soon.

BTW; Jody. I know you have the SCT pro racer package. Well; there Big Air MAF just came out, and would probably help your setup if you are pegging the stock MAF

 

Thanks Casey. That's the direction of my next mods, the maf is maxed. I want to try a different intake manifold, have a throttle body on the way, and the new maf would be just the ticket for me.

Jody

 

Thanks for posting that info.......

I was wondering what the gains I could/would see with a blower upgrade over the Apten ported Eaton.

Btw......I picked up hp and tq on my port job. But maybe Iam spinning the blower harder. I run a 6 lower and a 1 upper.
I feel your pain with the 91 pump gas. Iam lucky enough to be able to buy 94 Sunoco, but I mainly use 93 around the corner from the house. While I don't run no where the timing you do, I am pushing 21 on my AutoMeter Boost gauge on a stock long block

 

CONGRATS JODY

Just the answer we were looking for
And a 30/50 Gain in Power, (even over an Apten) WOO HOO

 

How do you like the pro racer package? i'm thinking about getting it after the first of the year. how long have you had it? how difficult is it to learn/use? i've been reading up on the stuff over at modulardepot.com, but there's not much on lightning's over there.
later

 

I love it and would never go back. It is a definite learning curve for me coming from aftermarket efi as there's a LOT more info available. Once you figure out what you're trying to accomplish it's a lot of fun. The maf transfer is the most critical part to get right to get the A/F squared away.

They give you a pre-programmed tune for your mods to start, you don't have to start from scratch. So you start with a tune like you would from any other tuner that should be very close. You tune from there. 5 minutes to make any changes.

Jody

 

well, i have no background using aftermarket tunning devices like this, but have been studying up on it and the tweecer.

how hard do you think it would be for me to learn how to use it, with abosolutely no experience?

i think it would be great to have another person with the same type vehicle to exchange notes and such of the device.

what type of laptop are you using? i've got an hp, with windows 98 that a friend gave me to use just for this.

you got any screen shots of you using it?

later
chiz

 

Wow! That was the next thing I've been wondering about; how much boost can these engines take? I'm talking with a very safe A/F and no detonation. Maybe I need to start leaning on the KB!

Jody

 

The main thing would be knowing what you're trying to accomplish. Some people simply can't tune because they don't know where they're trying to go. Most people can learn. Many don't want to learn.

SCT gave me a very safe starting point. You'll need a good wideband O2 and some sort of datalogging equipment. I've actually got a program I use, but usually I use my Predator for datalogging! Get some use of the darn thing!

I do most of my tuning without my laptop lately. I used it initially to get the majority sorted but now I'm doing minor tweaks and my home computer is faster and easier. I simply datalog the sensors I want to watch, and run the wideband to monitor the A/F. Don't make a bunch of changes at once; that way you can tell if you're making progress or not. SCT also has a great message board for tuning that thing that can really help.

Jody