Sad saga has bad turn (Compression and Leakdown number contained)
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 624
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From: Raleigh, NC
Sad saga has bad turn (Sompression and Leakdown number contained)
Just when I thought all was good...
Please read the following thread for the background to my problem.
http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthrea...;threadid=76193
So, after JLP tuned the truck in April for the previous owner, on a whim I did a dyno run and had the lean as heck results in the thread above. Vehicle still felt strong and no weird noises so I figured I caught the problem early enough. Bought a Wide Band Commander, Walbro 255's, new plugs, and a fuel pressure guage. I then had Ed and True Blue burn me a conservative chip since I didn't have time for a dyno. Well after the new chip, with out any other changes I got my air fuel at WOT back between 11.5 - 12.5. So today I get my Wideband commander, fuel pressure guage, and new boost guage put in along with new plugs. While the plugs are out we do a compression test and leakdown %. Dan say the truck is real strong and we don't expect to see anything to bad.... WRONG!!!!
#1 170 comp 5% leakdown
#2 175 comp 2% leakdown
#3 140 comp 25% leakdown
#4 110 comp 55% leakdown
#5 170 comp 60% leakdown
#6 165 comp 5% leakdown
#7 145 comp 13% leakdown
#8 155 comp 10% leakdown
Well there you go.... Rings and Valve problems... Time to build a motor...
True Blue gave me a quote with 12/12,000 warranty and I think I am going to go with that. I am looking at JLP's and JDM's blocks, but I see a huge advantage for the the same company to build,install, and tune... that way if anything goes bad, one person to talk to. True Blue builds some good motors, I know that, even with Randy not there anymore... Ed says he won't really know if the pistons are shot until he pulls the motor... with piston work including all removal, installation, machine work, parts, Custom CP Pistons 20cc dish, Manley Rods, and apr studs he wants $6,500 (w/o piston and rods, the price may drop as much as $1700). I think I am going to go ahead and get the whold works done including a cam for and extra $600 that are not regrinds. I am going to do this, of couse I don't have any money right now, but I guess I will find it somewhere.
They told me that as good as it seems to run to go ahead and keep driving it and when I get them 1/3 they will go ahead a build the motor.
Dan has been a great guy and has helped alot. He even said that he will work with me and let me pay over time, even after the install. True Blue is great and should be in a new 25,000 square foot facility by next month.
Well, I guess I was just looking for responses on the whole thing and maybe some sympathy... Very sad day...
BUY A WIDEBAND COMMANDER IF YOU DO ANY MODS SO THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN TO YOU.
Please read the following thread for the background to my problem.
http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthrea...;threadid=76193
So, after JLP tuned the truck in April for the previous owner, on a whim I did a dyno run and had the lean as heck results in the thread above. Vehicle still felt strong and no weird noises so I figured I caught the problem early enough. Bought a Wide Band Commander, Walbro 255's, new plugs, and a fuel pressure guage. I then had Ed and True Blue burn me a conservative chip since I didn't have time for a dyno. Well after the new chip, with out any other changes I got my air fuel at WOT back between 11.5 - 12.5. So today I get my Wideband commander, fuel pressure guage, and new boost guage put in along with new plugs. While the plugs are out we do a compression test and leakdown %. Dan say the truck is real strong and we don't expect to see anything to bad.... WRONG!!!!
#1 170 comp 5% leakdown
#2 175 comp 2% leakdown
#3 140 comp 25% leakdown
#4 110 comp 55% leakdown
#5 170 comp 60% leakdown
#6 165 comp 5% leakdown
#7 145 comp 13% leakdown
#8 155 comp 10% leakdown
Well there you go.... Rings and Valve problems... Time to build a motor...
True Blue gave me a quote with 12/12,000 warranty and I think I am going to go with that. I am looking at JLP's and JDM's blocks, but I see a huge advantage for the the same company to build,install, and tune... that way if anything goes bad, one person to talk to. True Blue builds some good motors, I know that, even with Randy not there anymore... Ed says he won't really know if the pistons are shot until he pulls the motor... with piston work including all removal, installation, machine work, parts, Custom CP Pistons 20cc dish, Manley Rods, and apr studs he wants $6,500 (w/o piston and rods, the price may drop as much as $1700). I think I am going to go ahead and get the whold works done including a cam for and extra $600 that are not regrinds. I am going to do this, of couse I don't have any money right now, but I guess I will find it somewhere.
They told me that as good as it seems to run to go ahead and keep driving it and when I get them 1/3 they will go ahead a build the motor.
Dan has been a great guy and has helped alot. He even said that he will work with me and let me pay over time, even after the install. True Blue is great and should be in a new 25,000 square foot facility by next month.
Well, I guess I was just looking for responses on the whole thing and maybe some sympathy... Very sad day...
BUY A WIDEBAND COMMANDER IF YOU DO ANY MODS SO THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN TO YOU.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
Here's the corrected link from your first post.
http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread...threadid=76193
Damn man that sux...the only thing good I can tell you is that you got a good deal on your Wideband Commander.
Good luck with everything....and try to not get too discouraged. It's very easy to do when you run into something like that.
http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread...threadid=76193
Damn man that sux...the only thing good I can tell you is that you got a good deal on your Wideband Commander.
Good luck with everything....and try to not get too discouraged. It's very easy to do when you run into something like that.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 0
From: Colorado,
I wouldn't let one test be all conclusive.
You said yourself that it ran good.
If it doesn't use oil and runs good I would run it a while longer and say in a couple thousand miles and do a repeat test with different gauges and equipment.
It is not like you are going to the NHRA finals and are leading in points with a ton of sponsors to please.
Change your oil a couple times and just run it like you normaly would.
Here is a comparison story.
A buddy of mine had this great running little sandrail and he is wheelieing all over the dunes and after the trip he decides he wants his engine dyno tunned to make sure he is getting the most from it.
He see's these low HP numbers and gets bummed. The tunner offers him this bilt to the hilt VW engine with 300HP. My friend trades his old one and some credit for it.
We go back to the dunes and the thing won't stay running for squat, has to have race fuel and is holding all of us up. It just wasn't drivable at normal speeds. Now my friend is super discouraged cause he can't run with the pack and has credit card debt out the kazoo
My point is that you should just run what ya got and keep an eye on it. Save some money and pay cash for a different set up later on down the road.
To many guys jump in CC debt on the spur of the moment and then regret it later.
It Runs good, so run it.
MY 02 cents.
You said yourself that it ran good.
If it doesn't use oil and runs good I would run it a while longer and say in a couple thousand miles and do a repeat test with different gauges and equipment.
It is not like you are going to the NHRA finals and are leading in points with a ton of sponsors to please.
Change your oil a couple times and just run it like you normaly would.
Here is a comparison story.
A buddy of mine had this great running little sandrail and he is wheelieing all over the dunes and after the trip he decides he wants his engine dyno tunned to make sure he is getting the most from it.
He see's these low HP numbers and gets bummed. The tunner offers him this bilt to the hilt VW engine with 300HP. My friend trades his old one and some credit for it.
We go back to the dunes and the thing won't stay running for squat, has to have race fuel and is holding all of us up. It just wasn't drivable at normal speeds. Now my friend is super discouraged cause he can't run with the pack and has credit card debt out the kazoo
My point is that you should just run what ya got and keep an eye on it. Save some money and pay cash for a different set up later on down the road.
To many guys jump in CC debt on the spur of the moment and then regret it later.
It Runs good, so run it.
MY 02 cents.