Open element air filter question
Originally posted by AustinLightning
I've mentioned this before to deaf ears, but I'll try again.
When I was testing/tuning with an SCT founding father, I had the truck dyno tuned with the open filter. I was thinking along the lines of Tim on the heat so I put the stock box back on with a k&N air filter. All other variables unchanged (as much as possible), the truck would detonate at WOT with the stock box. The idea/theory presented to me was that it's not just a heat thing, but there is also a change in the way the air flows over the mas which affects the reading. This in turn leaned out just enough to detonate.
We didn't scientifically document everything, so this idea won't hold up to scrutiny, but I thought it deserved mentioning.
I've mentioned this before to deaf ears, but I'll try again.
When I was testing/tuning with an SCT founding father, I had the truck dyno tuned with the open filter. I was thinking along the lines of Tim on the heat so I put the stock box back on with a k&N air filter. All other variables unchanged (as much as possible), the truck would detonate at WOT with the stock box. The idea/theory presented to me was that it's not just a heat thing, but there is also a change in the way the air flows over the mas which affects the reading. This in turn leaned out just enough to detonate.
We didn't scientifically document everything, so this idea won't hold up to scrutiny, but I thought it deserved mentioning.
Like Doug said on heat ...once you get moving or have a fan at a dyno it will not be a factor.
Doug, that 5 seconds might hurt you from the stageing lanes / to leaving the line on your 12 second run

so enclose it .....
Last edited by RED 92; Aug 19, 2004 at 03:00 PM.
Originally posted by Tim Skelton
Not true, Doug. I have explicitly recognized those issues several times in this thread.
Me: "If the engine needs more power than the opening to the filter box can supply, then the solution is to enlarge the opening in the housing, not to throw away the filter housing -- it is there for a reason. If the engine needs more air than the stock filter can supply, then the solution is a bigger filter -- and a bigger box around it."
Me: "Remember, the question here is not whether a cone filter works -- the question is whether it works better when any particular filter is enclosed (with appropriately-sized openings for fresh air).
So just to be clear -- the (non)debate is whether, assuming the filter in question is sufficient to supply the airflow needed for the engine, it is better to have an enclosed or open filter.
The looks and sound issues are subjective and therefore not amenable to scientific analysis.
FYI: I have the JLP box. For the sound.
Not true, Doug. I have explicitly recognized those issues several times in this thread.
Me: "If the engine needs more power than the opening to the filter box can supply, then the solution is to enlarge the opening in the housing, not to throw away the filter housing -- it is there for a reason. If the engine needs more air than the stock filter can supply, then the solution is a bigger filter -- and a bigger box around it."
Me: "Remember, the question here is not whether a cone filter works -- the question is whether it works better when any particular filter is enclosed (with appropriately-sized openings for fresh air).
So just to be clear -- the (non)debate is whether, assuming the filter in question is sufficient to supply the airflow needed for the engine, it is better to have an enclosed or open filter.
The looks and sound issues are subjective and therefore not amenable to scientific analysis.
FYI: I have the JLP box. For the sound.
The original statement was that no one has addressed as what power levels the stock arrangement or ANY closed filter becomes a restriction. Your "Not True " aside that question has not been answered that I have seen.
The second point was that You were assuming that the volume of air was the same in both scenarios .. Again - Your "Not True " aside - You backed up my statement
"Remember, the question here is not whether a cone filter works -- the question is whether it works better when any particular filter is enclosed (with appropriately-sized openings for fresh air).
Since there is no closed solution that is big enough. My point in restating my experience with MY IAT's in Dallas Heat was that IN My opinion the small temporary loss of HP using an open filter is likely on MY truck, outweighed by the abilty to pull as much air as needed at all throttle positions.
Since we agreed that the Windtunnel dyno is not an option - I was never trying to make a case that was provable to a scientific or legal certainty. I was simply trying to convey the reason I made the decisions I did and my beliefs about the commonly available solutions. AND the appearance of the filter and the sounds of the supercharger ARE important to me and to many other consumers... The level of importance varies person to person, BUT assuming you have to identically performing solutions - One is attractive and allows the sound of the supercharger to be heard its likely that one will be more popular.
Doug
Last edited by Silver_2000; Aug 19, 2004 at 11:58 AM.
Ok I do know this, With the vehicle completely stock, and checking the Boost with a Lunar gauge. (OK "not completely stock", add a gauge) The engine would make 8 PSI, on hot days… Now, then I cut Two 3.5” holes in the bottom of the stock air box, no other changes!! All of the sudden, I would get 9.5 PSI on hot days and a solid "10-PSI" on cold days. (What happened??????) (Some engineer must have not converted from Milliliters to Inches)!!!!
Originally posted by Silver_2000_
!
. . . The original statement was that no one has addressed as what power levels the stock arrangement or ANY closed filter becomes a restriction. Your "Not True " aside that question has not been answered that I have seen. . .
! . . . The original statement was that no one has addressed as what power levels the stock arrangement or ANY closed filter becomes a restriction. Your "Not True " aside that question has not been answered that I have seen. . .
According to well-documented tests run by Richard Holdener, the stock airbox ran out of steam somewhere between 400-450 rwHP (the exact point is a little unclear).
According to Sal of PSP: "The stock or modified/stock airbox is fine if you run stock or up to +3 PSIG extra, but it's definitely not for trucks running over +4 PSIG. On the dyno, trucks set up like that will drop off in power early, from the lack of adequate airflow. Happens every time."
That was one reason why I put the JLP airbox on my stock engine. When the power levels go up from mods, I do not have to worry about the airbox being a restriction. I doubt that I will ever take the engine to the point that either the JLP filter or airbaox openings cannot supply the required airflow.
Although it appears that very little air is able to get into the gap between the top of the JLP airbox and the bottom of the hood, I am thinking of tossing the lid and installing a gasket to completely seal against the bottom of the hood. Maybe that difference is only important on paper. We may never know.
Originally posted by oldfrmtrk
Ok I do know this, With the vehicle completely stock, and checking the Boost with a Lunar gauge. (OK "not completely stock", add a gauge) The engine would make 8 PSI, on hot days… Now, then I cut Two 3.5” holes in the bottom of the stock air box, no other changes!! All of the sudden, I would get 9.5 PSI on hot days and a solid "10-PSI" on cold days. (What happened??????) (Some engineer must have not converted from Milliliters to Inches)!!!!
Ok I do know this, With the vehicle completely stock, and checking the Boost with a Lunar gauge. (OK "not completely stock", add a gauge) The engine would make 8 PSI, on hot days… Now, then I cut Two 3.5” holes in the bottom of the stock air box, no other changes!! All of the sudden, I would get 9.5 PSI on hot days and a solid "10-PSI" on cold days. (What happened??????) (Some engineer must have not converted from Milliliters to Inches)!!!!
This is an unexplained measurement anomaly, not real boost. If it were really 2 lbs of real boost, we would see large increases in HP. Much larger per PSIG than overspinning the SC with a pulley, because the "freed up" boost would not be accompanied by the dramatic rise in outlet temps that overspinning causes. So while some have reported slight (less than 10 rwHP) gains from replacing the filter on a stock engine (many others have seen a loss), no one has reported gains consistent with the increase in indicated boost.
My Auto Meter electronic boost gauge reads 10-10.5 lbs peak with just the JLP filter. But I did not gain any appreciable HP from the filter swap -- as measured either by the butt dyno or the G-Tech.
Perhaps some Ford engineer can explain this anomaly.
Last edited by Tim Skelton; Aug 19, 2004 at 12:35 PM.
Originally posted by Tim Skelton
I am thinking of tossing the lid and installing a gasket to completely seal against the bottom of the hood. Maybe that difference is only important on paper. We may never know.
I am thinking of tossing the lid and installing a gasket to completely seal against the bottom of the hood. Maybe that difference is only important on paper. We may never know.
The MAF on a stock box truck and the MAF on a open filter JLP or AFOne truck flow the same "mass of air" ..... the open filter will draw more air through the MAF by increasing velocity than a stock box will. The MAF senses the extra velocity, temperature, pressure and cross sectional area at the point of mesurement for the ECU......
The question is density. Yes, most believe the stock box will allow intake air to be denser than the open filter will below approx. 35 mph..... ok then....enclose the larger aftermarket filter for the same temp. results as stock and enjoy more air over stock and let that monster motor emplode you filter with that increased air velocity.aka more air.
Like you said, this is why many see good gains with the addition of holes in the stock box to a certain HP level.....400-450 ish...
Last edited by RED 92; Aug 19, 2004 at 03:11 PM.
This is an unexplained measurement anomaly, not real boost. If it were really 2 lbs of real boost, we would see large increases in HP. Much larger per PSIG than overspinning the SC with a pulley, because the "freed up" boost would not be accompanied by the dramatic rise in outlet temps that overspinning causes. So while some have reported slight (less than 10 rwHP) gains from replacing the filter on a stock engine (many others have seen a loss), no one has reported gains consistent with the increase in indicated boost.
Originally posted by Tim Skelton
Well, let's give it a shot right now:
According to well-documented tests run by Richard Holdener, the stock airbox ran out of steam somewhere between 400-450 rwHP (the exact point is a little unclear).
snip
Well, let's give it a shot right now:
According to well-documented tests run by Richard Holdener, the stock airbox ran out of steam somewhere between 400-450 rwHP (the exact point is a little unclear).
snip
Originally posted by Tim Skelton
According to Sal of PSP: "The stock or modified/stock airbox is fine if you run stock or up to +3 PSIG extra, but it's definitely not for trucks running over +4 PSIG. On the dyno, trucks set up like that will drop off in power early, from the lack of adequate airflow. Happens every time."
According to Sal of PSP: "The stock or modified/stock airbox is fine if you run stock or up to +3 PSIG extra, but it's definitely not for trucks running over +4 PSIG. On the dyno, trucks set up like that will drop off in power early, from the lack of adequate airflow. Happens every time."
Im sooo confused - How can a truck that is running 2 or 3 lbs of extra boost make 400-450 HP ?
These 2 examples that sem to contradict each other show that there is NO consistent data. They both suggest however that the stock airbox is a restriction at relatively mild HP levels. That means that EVEN though an open filter may breath in hot air its likley a better solution than the closed stock box for even mildly modded trucks
If we agree on that then Kenne Bells statement about closed filters seems a bit confused because why would someone want to spend 4k for a Kenne bell and tuning just to make 400-450 hp ??
Bell doesnt make or sell a closed airbox for either the Lightning or the Mustang and we agree that no aftermarket filter is truley a closed system, ( except the one called Volant I think ) yet his statements suggest that no customer of his will be warrantied if the use an open filter and accompanied with the data from above that means they are limited to 400-450 hp and 2-3 extra pounds of boost ...
Its all so confusing....
Doug
Last edited by Silver_2000; Aug 19, 2004 at 07:33 PM.
Originally posted by Silver_2000_
!
. . .These 2 examples that sem to contradict each other show that there is NO consistent data. They both suggest however that the stock airbox is a restriction at relatively mild HP levels. That means that EVEN though an open filter may breath in hot air its likley a better solution than the closed stock box for even mildly modded trucks . . .
! . . .These 2 examples that sem to contradict each other show that there is NO consistent data. They both suggest however that the stock airbox is a restriction at relatively mild HP levels. That means that EVEN though an open filter may breath in hot air its likley a better solution than the closed stock box for even mildly modded trucks . . .
To summarize:
======= open versus closed topic begins =========
The central issue raised by this thread is not whether an open, non-restrictive filter is better than a restrictive closed filter, the issue is whether a given filter -- sufficient to meet the airflow needs of your engine -- is better open or enclosed. I just don't know how to say it more clearly than that. And there is no debate on this issue. Enclosed is better. Period. It's better on the engineer's drawing board and, as the data cited and referenced in this thread proves, it's better in real life. And it's not confusing at all.
========= open versus closed topic ends =========
Alert -- topic change:
======= limits of the stock filter topic begins =========
The data cited does in fact conflict. But it does agree that there is no mechanical (as opposed to cosmetic or aurual) reason to replace the stock filter on a stock truck.
========= limits of the stock filter topic ends =========
Alert -- topic change:
===== application to the available choices topic begins ====
The practical aspect of getting an enclosed filter of sufficient flow to support a given horsepower is another issue altogether. As you correctly observe, the Volant appears to be the only completely enclosed option.
But that overlooks all of the semi-enclosed designs. Some use "ram air" ducting, some just use "air dams" to separate the fenderwell air from the engine compartment air. Some have used Rubbermaid trash cans. Some have used a gasket on top of the open airbox top to seal it to the underside of the hood. Partially blocking the hot engine compartment air is the next best option.
The bottom line: The enclosed or semi-enclosed boxes like the Volant, PSP, and JLP are the best currently on the market.
Can they supply enough air for any modded 5.4? Dunno. But they surely can supply enough air for the vast majority of the Lightnings on the road. And there is just no reason to buy an open filter of the same airflow capabilities.
Originally Posted by Tim Skelton
I don't disagree with your conclusion, Doug. But the signal-to-noise ratio of this once clear thread has gone down the toilet.
To summarize:
======= open versus closed topic begins =========
The central issue raised by this thread is not whether an open, non-restrictive filter is better than a restrictive closed filter, the issue is whether a given filter -- sufficient to meet the airflow needs of your engine -- is better open or enclosed. I just don't know how to say it more clearly than that. And there is no debate on this issue. Enclosed is better. Period. It's better on the engineer's drawing board and, as the data cited and referenced in this thread proves, it's better in real life. And it's not confusing at all.
========= open versus closed topic ends =========
Alert -- topic change:
======= limits of the stock filter topic begins =========
The data cited does in fact conflict. But it does agree that there is no mechanical (as opposed to cosmetic or aurual) reason to replace the stock filter on a stock truck.
========= limits of the stock filter topic ends =========
Alert -- topic change:
===== application to the available choices topic begins ====
The practical aspect of getting an enclosed filter of sufficient flow to support a given horsepower is another issue altogether. As you correctly observe, the Volant appears to be the only completely enclosed option.
But that overlooks all of the semi-enclosed designs. Some use "ram air" ducting, some just use "air dams" to separate the fenderwell air from the engine compartment air. Some have used Rubbermaid trash cans. Some have used a gasket on top of the open airbox top to seal it to the underside of the hood. Partially blocking the hot engine compartment air is the next best option.
The bottom line: The enclosed or semi-enclosed boxes like the Volant, PSP, and JLP are the best currently on the market.
Can they supply enough air for any modded 5.4? Dunno. But they surely can supply enough air for the vast majority of the Lightnings on the road. And there is just no reason to buy an open filter of the same airflow capabilities.

To summarize:
======= open versus closed topic begins =========
The central issue raised by this thread is not whether an open, non-restrictive filter is better than a restrictive closed filter, the issue is whether a given filter -- sufficient to meet the airflow needs of your engine -- is better open or enclosed. I just don't know how to say it more clearly than that. And there is no debate on this issue. Enclosed is better. Period. It's better on the engineer's drawing board and, as the data cited and referenced in this thread proves, it's better in real life. And it's not confusing at all.
========= open versus closed topic ends =========
Alert -- topic change:
======= limits of the stock filter topic begins =========
The data cited does in fact conflict. But it does agree that there is no mechanical (as opposed to cosmetic or aurual) reason to replace the stock filter on a stock truck.
========= limits of the stock filter topic ends =========
Alert -- topic change:
===== application to the available choices topic begins ====
The practical aspect of getting an enclosed filter of sufficient flow to support a given horsepower is another issue altogether. As you correctly observe, the Volant appears to be the only completely enclosed option.
But that overlooks all of the semi-enclosed designs. Some use "ram air" ducting, some just use "air dams" to separate the fenderwell air from the engine compartment air. Some have used Rubbermaid trash cans. Some have used a gasket on top of the open airbox top to seal it to the underside of the hood. Partially blocking the hot engine compartment air is the next best option.
The bottom line: The enclosed or semi-enclosed boxes like the Volant, PSP, and JLP are the best currently on the market.
Can they supply enough air for any modded 5.4? Dunno. But they surely can supply enough air for the vast majority of the Lightnings on the road. And there is just no reason to buy an open filter of the same airflow capabilities.

Originally Posted by Tim Skelton
You are not alone. Almost everyone who has modified the airbox or replaced the filter has seen 1-2.5 lbs more indicated boost.
This is an unexplained measurement anomaly, not real boost. If it were really 2 lbs of real boost, we would see large increases in HP. Much larger per PSIG than overspinning the SC with a pulley, because the "freed up" boost would not be accompanied by the dramatic rise in outlet temps that overspinning causes. So while some have reported slight (less than 10 rwHP) gains from replacing the filter on a stock engine (many others have seen a loss), no one has reported gains consistent with the increase in indicated boost.
My Auto Meter electronic boost gauge reads 10-10.5 lbs peak with just the JLP filter. But I did not gain any appreciable HP from the filter swap -- as measured either by the butt dyno or the G-Tech.
Perhaps some Ford engineer can explain this anomaly.
This is an unexplained measurement anomaly, not real boost. If it were really 2 lbs of real boost, we would see large increases in HP. Much larger per PSIG than overspinning the SC with a pulley, because the "freed up" boost would not be accompanied by the dramatic rise in outlet temps that overspinning causes. So while some have reported slight (less than 10 rwHP) gains from replacing the filter on a stock engine (many others have seen a loss), no one has reported gains consistent with the increase in indicated boost.
My Auto Meter electronic boost gauge reads 10-10.5 lbs peak with just the JLP filter. But I did not gain any appreciable HP from the filter swap -- as measured either by the butt dyno or the G-Tech.
Perhaps some Ford engineer can explain this anomaly.


