Any ideas guys?

Has anybody found a particular oil or additive that helps?

Thanks

 

Every since I changed my oil, my truck has been making a knocking-grinding noise. I think that Ford had a thicker oil in it to hide this. Is this your problem too?

 

Yeah, just did my first oil change at 900 miles ('04) with the recommended filter and oil, and now there's a tick I can hear at idle. Have done searches on the forums and appareantly it's somewhat common.

The 5w-20 must be for fuel mileadge????

 

I've been using Amzoil 10W-30 for over 60K. It got rid of the "tick".

TB

 

Why not just take it in to the dealer. Pretty hard to screw up an oil change.

I did my first one at 500 miles and used the Motocraft oil and filter. Bought it from the dealership and paid through the nose but wanted the dated receipt for warranty issues in the future.

Remember my post about how it came out dark and greenish?

I concluded by a wild logic guess that it was assembly lube that caused the color issue.

I have only 1,300 miles now and no tick......

When are you planning on switching to synthetic?

I'm not looking for an oil debate. Just offering first hand info for comparison sake.

 

I never had it.
Hope I never get it.
I switched to full synthetic mobil1 at about 4.5k

 

Thats good to hear. What weight do you use?

LOL
I was just thinking about the 52 Ford 4 door sedan with 3 on the tree and overdrive that I learned to drive in.

It had a straight six and it had the tick. My dad used to pour in STP oil treatment and leave it running in the street for about 1/2 hour to circulate the stuff.

I think I read somewhere that it was the equivilant of 600 wt.

You couldn't even pour it out of the can unless it was warm LOL

I bet if you put that in our L engine it would lock it up LOL..... bet it would loose the tick.....

 

MANY have or had this Problem including me,
changed the oil the first time, and tick tick tick.
Mine turned out to be the POS Fram Filter.
EDIT (MAKE THAT FRAM) sorry............
NEVER EVER USE FRAM, they DO NOT have the
Spring and Ball Check inside

Sal explained why it's so important, has to do with the
oil draining back out and causing a dry start up condition
(something like that)
JUST BELIEVE ME, IT'S REAL IMPORTANT TO USE THE RIGHT FILTER
(now transmission fluid I'll argue about all day )

But look inside Fram (or other bargin brands) and then look inside Mobil 1, (THERE IS NO COMPARISON)...........

 

Dangit Rob!!! I've been out looking up and down the frame in my truck trying to find some filter I had missed all these times....... It's FRAM ! Your making it too hard on some of us slower types!

 

Are you sure it isn't the injectors clicking

 

 

I always fill the filter before screwing it on....I use the K&N ....

 

Do a search for "piston slap." It has been a known problem with the 5.4 since the beginning.

I had it -- yup, just after the first dealer oil change -- and it was getting worse every mile. Sounded like a diesel at times. Downright embarrasing.

But, in my experience, thicker oil made it worse. I was using higher-weight oil than the OEM 0-20. Then I read that some people had lost the piston slap when they switched to 0-20.

I recently switch to Mobil 1 0-20 after 15K miles. Dramatic reduction in piston slap. I have dual remote filters (big uns too), and I did not change the filters, so I am wondering if it will be all but inaudible when I have pure 0-20.

 

Your factory-fill oil looked green because it had a leak-detection fluid added to it. Some of the assembly plants were using black lights in the pits to check for leaks.

BTW, factory fill is 5W20 (plus a little residual assembly lube).

 

Thanks for all of the input guys!

Doesn't piston slap go away once the motor is warm and the pistons have expanded?