just finished working on my brakes, ill put more pics up later, im on 56k and still kinda working,


ok so here is the problem, i finished, now i dont have a lot of movement in my brake pedal, i have to push it more than half way down to even start to stop, dad says air in the master cylinder, anyone know, or even how to bleed that out. help some one please

 

sounds like air somewhere.

did u just pull the calipers or the master cylinder also..

if the clipers were off and allowed all the brake fluid to drain and the master cylinder res. to dry up then you might have to bench bleed the master cylinder and then bleed all four corners, start with pass rear, go to drivers rear, then pass front then drivers front, always keeping fluid full the the master cylinder..

bench bleeding
http://www.misterfixit.com/brakbld1.htm
http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...=res20020701bm

jim

 

Im looking to get some new brakes. Anyone got any recomendations?

31C

 

plenty of info here

 

hey tim i've always been curious how much success you've had with the pump style bleeder. I've tried it out and only was successful after threading the bleeders with teflon tape and having someone pump the pedal as well (pumping alone not being as good as using the bleeder and pumping).

 

damn, this thread got hi jacked, anyways, about MY problem, i bleed all the calipers because i took them off to paint them. i bleed them each twice more, nothing, i dont really know how to bleed the master cylinder, so im thinking about taking it into ford monday and seeing wut they can do, hopefully it wont cost that much.

 

last i recall there is a bleeder on the master cylinder, but not sure about that.

Either case, like I said i've had pretty good success teflon threading the bleeders and then using a pump style bleeder in conjuction with someone pumping the brakes. Might be something you wanna try out before you take it to ford, my bleeder pump cost 20 bucks or so.

 

ill look right now for that bleeder on the master, we did try pumping the brakes and using the vacuum pump.

 

Thanks for the help, I tried the search but all I couldnt find the info I needed. I was looking at the Praise Dyno because those are the only ones in my price range right now unfortunatly. The only thing the truckin article said about them was the the lightning stoped "sooner, smother and cooler." Anyone able to back that up?

31C

 

Any good shop that does a lot of brake work should have a power bleeder and do the job for less than $50

They connect it to the master cylinder and all 4 corners. Then force it threw and filter it. Cleans things up and get's all that air out.

It doesn't take much air to get that spongie feeling. There have been a few posts lately about the braded SS lines. Since you went to the trouble to paint everything and jass it up. Now would be a good time to add that extra Bling before the bleed. They said it firmed up the pedal to.

I hate it when you try and be nice to your toys doing a little detail work and it causes you greif. Looks real nice though. Hope it lasts for you.

 

My great great grandfather use to tell me about 56K
People still use that, hehehehehehehehehe

optonline download speed result
9230/919 cablevision rob3832 @ 11784
(dam I'm running slow this morning, (only 9,230K) time to tweak)


Brake set up looks Great Dman25
Dam it seems a lot of US lose our pedals for various reasons
Your problem IS NOT uncommon for a L

 

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html


This is a good bleeder for a little money.

If you decide to up-grade the TCE kit is by far the best kit for the money. The Brembos are much more bling bling but parts (Rotors and pads and such) cost three times more.


Jerry

 

Doesn't Stan (RUSLOW) offer something similar for le$$?

 

Tim,

I like the new pic on your site!

I'm gonna take a few more of the system installed probably today.

 

You might want to paint the rotors to finish off the job. The calipers great.