Trying to take a nap...
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Hawaii
Trying to take a nap...
I'm trying to take a nap, because I'm so freaking sick. I've got a headache, the worst cough (kinda what Rob was talking about, gotta quit smoking), can't stop sweating... And the freaking doorbell rings.
I finally crawl out of bed, stagger out to the living room, peer out the front door, feeling so weak and sickly...
And break into a sprint, yelling my fool head off for the UPS truck to stop. Sure enough, my Zex kit is here.
WOOOOHOOOO!
Now I have to wait for a chip.
Thomas
I finally crawl out of bed, stagger out to the living room, peer out the front door, feeling so weak and sickly...
And break into a sprint, yelling my fool head off for the UPS truck to stop. Sure enough, my Zex kit is here.
WOOOOHOOOO!
Now I have to wait for a chip.
Thomas
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Posts: 11,153
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From: Selden NY
AWEOME BRO, you've been waiting for this one
LET THE FUN BEGIN, WOO HOO
Rule number one Duende, DO NOT BE AFRAID OF NITROUS,
it can be one of the safest mods out there.
But as our Brothers above are saying, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE TUNE
(and a lot of other things, we'll continue to talk off line)
Feel better Pal, if you got it, it's a big one and it's going to stick around a while unless you get major drugs, hehehehe
I got more controlled sub's in me right now than
SCHITT the 70's
OR SOMETHING
LET THE FUN BEGIN, WOO HOO
Rule number one Duende, DO NOT BE AFRAID OF NITROUS,
it can be one of the safest mods out there.
But as our Brothers above are saying, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE TUNE
(and a lot of other things, we'll continue to talk off line)
Feel better Pal, if you got it, it's a big one and it's going to stick around a while unless you get major drugs, hehehehe
I got more controlled sub's in me right now than
SCHITT the 70's
OR SOMETHING
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 525
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From: Spring Texas
Originally posted by Rob_02Lightning
But as our Brothers above are saying, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE TUNE
(and a lot of other things, we'll continue to talk off line)
[/B]
But as our Brothers above are saying, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE TUNE
(and a lot of other things, we'll continue to talk off line)
[/B]
Hell.. I don't know the first this about running Nitrous on a L.
I've just heard that L. owners that run the stuff have a tune
for nitro mode.
If it's as safe as you say it is, I wouldn't mind having a system
on stand-by in my L.
Peace.
Last edited by Ron Rairie; Jun 11, 2004 at 03:30 AM.
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Posts: 1,294
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From: Colorado,
Hey Duende, go to the Doc and get a tune on yourself. I had the crud for allmost 6 weeks thinking I was going to kick it on my own. Finally when in for a perscription and Kicked it in 4 days. Never did the fever thing, yours sounds different. But it's is summer and no time for sicky.
Congrats on the NOS will be looking forward to your results.
Congrats on the NOS will be looking forward to your results.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 11,153
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From: Selden NY
Originally posted by Ron Rairie
Be sure to get a good tune before you spray
Be sure to get a good tune before you spray
Originally posted by Ron Rairie
I never said it was all about the tune.
Hell.. I don't know the first this about running Nitrous on a L.
I've just heard that L. owners that run the stuff have a tune
for nitro mode.
If it's as safe as you say it is, I wouldn't mind having a system
on stand-by in my L.
Peace. [/B]
I never said it was all about the tune.
Hell.. I don't know the first this about running Nitrous on a L.
I've just heard that L. owners that run the stuff have a tune
for nitro mode.
If it's as safe as you say it is, I wouldn't mind having a system
on stand-by in my L.
Peace. [/B]
But to anwser the question, YES you need a Nitrous Program.
There are certain things you MUST address when using Nitrous
#1 You MUST move the Rev Limiter/Fuel cut off to a higher RPM
(you DO NOT want to shut down the fuel delivery while spraying)
I happen to have mine set @ 6000 RPM, some rather have 5700
#2 You want a lower shift point than a normal performance tune
(Most tuners will put you @5250/5300 shift points w/ Nitrous)
#3 RICH RICH (can you say rich) A/F
(you need to dump A LOT of fuel at it, safety, safety, safety,
#4 And Yes Timing, WOO HOO my favorite subject
A Nitrous Tune needs to be low timing (in most cases) hehehehe
#ME, I happen to like Torque Reduction OFF
(I DO NOT want 1/2 my motor shutting down between shifts while spraying)
Those are the main diff's between a regular tune and a n20 tune,
of course tip in, ms between shifts, total timing, tranny pressure,
and other variables are also area's some tuners will look at, and sometimes make certain changes in based on n20 use, vs non n20. This is why I feel YOU MUST have a Multi Chip program.
And not a Tuning Device that you must re-flash your computer ea and every time you want to spray it, and then have to re-flash it back afterwards to go back to normal driving. I find clicking a switch just makes more sense PLUS the n20 tune also happens to double as THE PERFECT winter driving slash economy driving slash long WOT parkway driving program without Nitrous.
A Safer A/F, shorter shift points, and lower timing make for a much safer tune, (I use my Nitrous tune all winter for reg driving).
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,833
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From: Botswana
Originally posted by Rob_02Lightning
....
Hey I was giving you credit Bro, why blow it for yourself
But to anwser the question, YES you need a Nitrous Program.
There are certain things you MUST address when using Nitrous
#1 You MUST move the Rev Limiter/Fuel cut off to a higher RPM
(you DO NOT want to shut down the fuel delivery while spraying)
I happen to have mine set @ 6000 RPM, some rather have 5700
#2 You want a lower shift point than a normal performance tune
(Most tuners will put you @5250/5300 shift points w/ Nitrous)
#3 RICH RICH (can you say rich) A/F
(you need to dump A LOT of fuel at it, safety, safety, safety,
#4 And Yes Timing, WOO HOO my favorite subject
A Nitrous Tune needs to be low timing (in most cases) hehehehe
#ME, I happen to like Torque Reduction OFF
(I DO NOT want 1/2 my motor shutting down between shifts while spraying)
Those are the main diff's between a regular tune and a n20 tune,
of course tip in, ms between shifts, total timing, tranny pressure,
and other variables are also area's some tuners will look at, and sometimes make certain changes in based on n20 use, vs non n20. This is why I feel YOU MUST have a Multi Chip program.
And not a Tuning Device that you must re-flash your computer ea and every time you want to spray it, and then have to re-flash it back afterwards to go back to normal driving. I find clicking a switch just makes more sense PLUS the n20 tune also happens to double as THE PERFECT winter driving slash economy driving slash long WOT parkway driving program without Nitrous.
A Safer A/F, shorter shift points, and lower timing make for a much safer tune, (I use my Nitrous tune all winter for reg driving).
....
Hey I was giving you credit Bro, why blow it for yourself
But to anwser the question, YES you need a Nitrous Program.
There are certain things you MUST address when using Nitrous
#1 You MUST move the Rev Limiter/Fuel cut off to a higher RPM
(you DO NOT want to shut down the fuel delivery while spraying)
I happen to have mine set @ 6000 RPM, some rather have 5700
#2 You want a lower shift point than a normal performance tune
(Most tuners will put you @5250/5300 shift points w/ Nitrous)
#3 RICH RICH (can you say rich) A/F
(you need to dump A LOT of fuel at it, safety, safety, safety,
#4 And Yes Timing, WOO HOO my favorite subject
A Nitrous Tune needs to be low timing (in most cases) hehehehe
#ME, I happen to like Torque Reduction OFF
(I DO NOT want 1/2 my motor shutting down between shifts while spraying)
Those are the main diff's between a regular tune and a n20 tune,
of course tip in, ms between shifts, total timing, tranny pressure,
and other variables are also area's some tuners will look at, and sometimes make certain changes in based on n20 use, vs non n20. This is why I feel YOU MUST have a Multi Chip program.
And not a Tuning Device that you must re-flash your computer ea and every time you want to spray it, and then have to re-flash it back afterwards to go back to normal driving. I find clicking a switch just makes more sense PLUS the n20 tune also happens to double as THE PERFECT winter driving slash economy driving slash long WOT parkway driving program without Nitrous.
A Safer A/F, shorter shift points, and lower timing make for a much safer tune, (I use my Nitrous tune all winter for reg driving).
Damn Rob............That's a pretty good sales pitch
. Now you have me thinking about it.Rocks
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
From: Spring Texas
Originally posted by Rob_02Lightning
....
Hey I was giving you credit Bro, why blow it for yourself
But to anwser the question, YES you need a Nitrous Program.
There are certain things you MUST address when using Nitrous
#1 You MUST move the Rev Limiter/Fuel cut off to a higher RPM
(you DO NOT want to shut down the fuel delivery while spraying)
I happen to have mine set @ 6000 RPM, some rather have 5700
#2 You want a lower shift point than a normal performance tune
(Most tuners will put you @5250/5300 shift points w/ Nitrous)
#3 RICH RICH (can you say rich) A/F
(you need to dump A LOT of fuel at it, safety, safety, safety,
#4 And Yes Timing, WOO HOO my favorite subject
A Nitrous Tune needs to be low timing (in most cases) hehehehe
#ME, I happen to like Torque Reduction OFF
(I DO NOT want 1/2 my motor shutting down between shifts while spraying)
Those are the main diff's between a regular tune and a n20 tune,
of course tip in, ms between shifts, total timing, tranny pressure,
and other variables are also area's some tuners will look at, and sometimes make certain changes in based on n20 use, vs non n20. This is why I feel YOU MUST have a Multi Chip program.
And not a Tuning Device that you must re-flash your computer ea and every time you want to spray it, and then have to re-flash it back afterwards to go back to normal driving. I find clicking a switch just makes more sense PLUS the n20 tune also happens to double as THE PERFECT winter driving slash economy driving slash long WOT parkway driving program without Nitrous.
A Safer A/F, shorter shift points, and lower timing make for a much safer tune, (I use my Nitrous tune all winter for reg driving).
....
Hey I was giving you credit Bro, why blow it for yourself
But to anwser the question, YES you need a Nitrous Program.
There are certain things you MUST address when using Nitrous
#1 You MUST move the Rev Limiter/Fuel cut off to a higher RPM
(you DO NOT want to shut down the fuel delivery while spraying)
I happen to have mine set @ 6000 RPM, some rather have 5700
#2 You want a lower shift point than a normal performance tune
(Most tuners will put you @5250/5300 shift points w/ Nitrous)
#3 RICH RICH (can you say rich) A/F
(you need to dump A LOT of fuel at it, safety, safety, safety,
#4 And Yes Timing, WOO HOO my favorite subject
A Nitrous Tune needs to be low timing (in most cases) hehehehe
#ME, I happen to like Torque Reduction OFF
(I DO NOT want 1/2 my motor shutting down between shifts while spraying)
Those are the main diff's between a regular tune and a n20 tune,
of course tip in, ms between shifts, total timing, tranny pressure,
and other variables are also area's some tuners will look at, and sometimes make certain changes in based on n20 use, vs non n20. This is why I feel YOU MUST have a Multi Chip program.
And not a Tuning Device that you must re-flash your computer ea and every time you want to spray it, and then have to re-flash it back afterwards to go back to normal driving. I find clicking a switch just makes more sense PLUS the n20 tune also happens to double as THE PERFECT winter driving slash economy driving slash long WOT parkway driving program without Nitrous.
A Safer A/F, shorter shift points, and lower timing make for a much safer tune, (I use my Nitrous tune all winter for reg driving).
Don't I look like the fool.
Anyway, thanks for the info.