my truck is a daily driver and im concered about drivability at higher HP levels with the stock block such as the addition of Kenne Bell

ive heard 500 rwhp can be done on 93 pump gas at (15 psi)
and they run high 11's and 115+mph
will i acomplish this kind of performance

im currently running 12.6 at 107 with this set up

afco heat Exchanger, RPM 4# lower, SF 2.80 upper , NKG tr6 gapped 35,000 , cobra single blade TB, boost by pass, breather cap, gator back belt, anderson power pipe ,83mm pro M , full ceramic bassani meal deal exhaust with cats, two stage autologic flip chip
bell tec 2 inch shackes and bell tec complete 3/4 drop all the way around (sits low)
metco saftey loop, aluminum driveshaft, stock 3.55s in the rear
chrome replicas wrapped in new Nitto 305/45ZR18s

Dynometer not dynojet at panhandle performance read at 14 lbs boost

run 1 LEAN 418hp/524lb
run 2 safer 404/ 518
run 3 final run 405/505 and current tune and super flat curve


so what do i do
theres a buddy with a Z06 that i want so bad
he won last night buy only 2 1/2 cars in the 1/4 12.2 at 116
:o

 

You can do it, but be prepared to buy yerself a new block if needed. Or save up and just build your block from the beginning for like 6-7k. Add the MP or KB after if you want.

 

Hey, I have a KB on my 04. I have a 6# Lower. When I order the KB, I called them and told them all my mods and the boost I wanted to make, so the swapped uppers on it for me before they shipped it. I'm making 14 or 15 lbs now, but much more efficiently now. Anything over 15 to 16 pounds is going to throw a rod through your block eventually. Personally, if you aren't going to upgrade to a built motor later on, as I am, the KB is a waste of cash in my opinion. I have a bad belt slip issue at the moment, ever with the Gatorback, but I hope to resolve that soon. Anyway, if you get one and want to push 20 lbs of boost, you are going to need new internals. I have been running great for just over 2000 miles though as is. Hope this info helped.

Phil

 

Sounds like a good candidate for the NOS and swallow up that ZO6

 

I've been told a "rule of thumb" by an old cogger long ago. And in my years of messin with cars I've found it to be very true.

On a *stock* long block, 30% to 35% of a power increase is "the edge". Cross that line and your either broken or on borrowed time.

And from my observations of the 5.4L S/C ford.. it's no different.

380hp x 1.35 = 513hp.

Rich

 

A lot of us are running numbers close to that now on stock blocks. SILVERLIGHTNING, Fast Gator, etc. I dynoed last at 446/580 and figuring 20% drivetrain loss that comes out to 535. That's not even figuring how much power the blower is robbing, so horsepower at the crank has got to be considerably more.



I am getting 14 psi so what is that, like 70 hp to run the Eaton?

 

8UR LS1

You tune is everything! My set up goes like this:

KB, 16lbs boost, 12.1 a/f, shift point at 5200, 93 octane in 90 degree weather I pulled 496 hp and 562 torque. My best run so far is 12.2 at 111 mph on a street program.

To my point of "your tune is everything" - I decided to stay very conservative in my tune, my L is a daily driver and although I want to have fun at the track I am more concerned about my rods holding on the street. At 16lbs boost (I have dynatech long tubes and high flow cats) you will max your 42lb stock injectors, something to think about. I have 7200 miles on my L all flawless and I have truely enjoyed the KB and my result. Could my current set up get me in the 11's - absolutely! I need one of two changes to do that and that is one, an aggressive tune or a stall convertor. At this point I am happy with my set up for the street.

My advice to anyone with a KB and a street program is to stay under the 500 mark and play it safe with the tune. Now, a set of race rods - that's a different story.



The Geez

Invest in a Metco Idler set up, I had the same problem and bought the Metco in combination with a reichard racing upper pulley - no more belt slip and a solid 16lbs of boost.

Good Luck


D-Day

 

One of the most intelligent posts I've seen in a while!

 

Have these same guys put over 100k on them at this power level?

When they do, then I'll change my opinion about this "rule of thumb" applying to a Ford 5.4L S/C.

Rich

 

If anything, I would think that the rule of thumb would need to be more strictly applied to the SC 5.4 than the average engine. After all, even though some internals have been upgraded, it is already running 50% higher power than the N/A 5.4.

 

One other thing I've learned since I was told that. Is in lubrication engineering they design for about 20% more power than comes std. (a safety factor being applied on top of that)

Rich

 

Hey, take it easy... I am not trying to fight with you or say you're wrong or anything...just making a point.

You didn't say anything about putting 100K on the clock. I wonder how many stock L's would have some kind of internal component failure before 100K. I am not saying they aren't going to last, but it can happen with any kind of engine, modded or not.

A good friend of mine had an '87 Mustang LX with 170K on the original bottom end shooting a 250 shot through it and it held up. The car ran consistant 11.20's and never had a problem. I've seen others that were 13 second rides blow up with < 50K on them.

I've got 20K with this kind of power level. I can't speak for anyone else though.

 

I don't see the relevance to HP. RPMs, maybe, but not HP.

For any given RPM, you will have the same volume of oil. Increase the HP, and the oil may get hotter, but auxilliary cooling should easily be able to deal with that.

 

Dan

Appreciate the info, I picked up the Metco, but I cant get it to fit with the KB with the brackets they sent and the upper that is on the KB. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Phil

 

At 16lbs boost (I have dynatech long tubes and high flow cats) you will max your 42lb stock injectors, something to think about.


so you have swapped the injectors? 55#ers or 60?

i thought if you went with bigger injectors you need bigger fuel pumps like dual 255 walbros and adjustible fuel rails to adjust for idle quality?

is this right?