at what point do I need traction bars?

 

When you start running slicks at the track. Get a drive shaft loop while your at it.

The bars are more to prevent axle wrap than for getting traction.


Rocks

 

brands anyone?

 

In my opinion, right now.

Even the stock tires are too grippy to not run traction bars -- which I like to call "bars that stop axle tramp but despite their name do not add traction."

If you drive hard, you should have noticed some shuddering back there. Traction bars are designed to stop all that. And in the process, keep the driveline in one piece.

 

You have a pretty good point. It has been awhile since I was able to really romp it on the street, so I had forgotten that mine has done this a few times using the F1's.

I bought my slicks about a month or so after buying my truck, so the couple times I went to the track with F1's, I spun so bad, the axle wrap never became an issue. I know it sure won't hurt anything to have them.


DON'T FORGET A DRIVE SHAFT LOOP. You don't want to become a pole vaulter.


Rocks

 

Check this thread out. It may be better than starting a whole new one for this question.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=158309


Rocks

 

What the ---- is your problem, Do you think you are some kind of lightning GOD. You don’t impress me BUD. I HATE SARCASM. Why post if you don’t want to HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You don’t intimidate me BUD!!!! Mater of fact, I just deleted your site from my favorites! Take your republic of CA and - well, I think you know the rest

 

I just traded my Truck-Traks out with the adjustable Metco bars. Pretty slick set-up.

 

I'm not sure hat your post is all about, but why trash this guys thread over a bicker between you and Tim. Email him, he's able to take it. He'll go back and forth with you all night.


JMHO


Rocks

 

One thing you can do is adjust more load in one side than the other. This will help compensate for the "torque twist" that your truck gets sometimes as you increase your torque beyond the 550 level.


Rocks

 

I have no idea what this moron is talking about. I have contributed more help than Mr. 32 posts will in 10 lifetimes. An as example, this thread. I posted information, while he posted some stupid rant, the genesis of which is beyond me.

But let me make one thing perfectly clear: I have no desire to communicate with this knuckle dragger here, via e-mail, or anywhere else.

Now back to the regularly scheduled program.

 

Well said....LOL.

Since your looking....I want to ask you a question. Have you done any experimenting with adjusting one Metco a bit "tighter" than the other for launching purposes.

We have been trying a few "tricks" to help keep my truck straight on the launch. Right now I am at about a quarter inch shorter(when measuring the distance of the threaded part) on the passenger side than the drivers side. It seems to be helping a bit according to the vids of the rear of my truck on the launch. It seems to be keeping the rear level, instead of the slight lifting I got before on the drivers side.

What I was wondering about was the affect on the pinion angle with one side being slightly more agressive than the other. Anything you may add to this would be appreciated.


Rocks

 

blackboltMD, I do apologize for the unrelated comment. Anyhow, there are several options you can choose from. JDM, LFP and JLP all have a better version of the Rancho style bars/brackets that were initially used by the gen 1 guys. The above mentioned attach below the axel via u-bolts and secure forward to a bracket that is secured to the frame. Most seem to favor this type of set-up. If you go this route email me and I can give you some tips that helped me. Some like the metco, cal-tracs, and competition engineering that also attach to a bracket at the axel and mount forward to the leaf spring/frame. Then you have the "Slapper style bars" Lakewood’s are fine and are more affordable @110-120 new, most upgrade their hardware to grade-8. Truck traks are also a "slapper style bar" and are beefier than the Lakewood’s these were fabricated and put into production by a member known as Jay Lincoln. I believe PSP carries them. I personally tried the Lakewood’s and they worked fine but later switch to JLP bars and I am very pleased with look/function. Basically traction bars help minimize axel wrap and minimize wear/tear on your u-joints and in extreme cases driveshaft failure. Traction bars/drive shaft loops are both good insurance especially if you race. Most importantly all have proven better 60 foot times. Hope this helps and again I apologize for dragging my knuckles on the ground

 

I just Love my JDM 58" Rancho Style Bars
1.63 60ft times "on stock tranny and convertor" WOO HOO....

 

JLP has those "rancho style" bars with a really tough powdercoating on the brackets which make them look better IMO. I've got a set on my truck now and love em.