Rear lowered 3". Hotchkis anti-sway, Mag-Hytec diff cover.

These three mods are not working together.


I cut down some left spring spacers to raise the bar off of the cover. That just makes the anti-sway hit the frame quicker (yeah, in hindsight it was a stupid idea, but it seemed good at the time).

I have ground the lip off of the frame. I am using tiny little button bump stops.

You can see the witness mark on the diff cover (just below the "P" on "Performance." The anti-sway is hitting the frame just ahead of the panhard mount.

In another post, I asked about options for milling down the cover.

Any other ideas that I have not considered (keeping all of the same stuff).

Thanks

 

After staring at the pic for several minutes ... I think the only way all that stuff can work together is to get one of the c-notch kits ( a small one) and cut the frame so that the bar will not hit the frame. And by do this you can but a slightly bigger spacer so that it does not kit the cover.

Hope that solves your problem.

 

If I was going to be serious about the road racing thing, I would reverse that bar. I would mount the bar to the frame with end links going to the rearend housing. That way you could spread the pivot points out on the bar and make if more effective and loose a little unsprung weight too.
Dale

 

Why not get shorter endlinks, then get a larger spacer to attach the swaybar to the axle and that should bring it up a bit...possibly enough...

 

Your only solution is to mount the endlinks on the inside of the frame rails and raise the height of the swaybar with your adjustable endlinks afterwards. Of couse you will have to have a welder shorten your swaybar to accomplish this.

 

what badasL is saying should work. All you would have to do is make the sway bar mount on the iside of the frame rail then it will help the clearance issue you are having. Sounds like a lot of work but you look like the man up for the challenge.


But if you wanna keep the stock mounting way then its gonna take some cutting to get the clearance you need out of the frame. You could try putting a bend in the bar where it is hittig the frame so that it hit the frame at a later part of its travel. This may give you what you need or it could be just part of the solution. Need anymore ideas just ask and ill give em to ya.

 

Timmy? Why don't you just go back to the stock diff cover? Functionality over bling? If you are that worried about the heat I think a rear differential cooler would be more effective and it wouldn't interfere with your suspension goodies.

Just what I would do is all. If not then we can agree to disagree I guess.

--Steele

 

I may end up doing that. But the Mag-Hytec is way functional. Magnetic drain plug, built-in boss for temp sender, and, most importantly, a magnetic dipstick.

I am installing a diff cooler also. But once again, the Mag-Hytec makes it easier. Thick cast aluminum so I can drill and tap the outlet and 3/8" NPT temp sender for the pump thermostat. And the dipstick will make it easy to determine how much problem the drainback when the cooler is off will pose. And the extra capacity of the Mag-Hytec means that the drainback will not raise the oil level as much.

One option is to change over to the JDM girdle - not as much capacity and $$$$, but still thick cast for the fittings. I seem to recall that JDM said that it would fit with the Ruslow panhard, but I have searched and searched and can't find anything. I think that the posts were deleted. Anyone remember this?

 

I like this idea. I could maybe cut out some of the center section, slip a tube over the cut section, and then have the tube welded on. But then the bar would be too narrow to fit over the diff housing, wouldn't it?

 

I'm a little unclear on this idea, but it seems intriguing. Can you explain a little more what you are proposing?

I am going to have a diff cooler on the spare tire brace and a 3 qt Accusump under the carbon cannister housing. I suppose I could find someplace else to put these things if need be.

 

Tim
The idea would be to mount the rear sway bar the same as the front sway bar. Mount it to the frame with the end links attaching to the rearend housing.

I haven't looked at it and don't know what would be involved, it might be a big pain in the arss. You could mount the bar ahead of the axle or behind it. You probably could not use the hotchkis bar that you have (maybe-maybe not) but you could dig thru some stock car web sites and probably find a bar that would work and be adjustable too.
Dale

 

I have part of the problem so I will be watching this thread closely.....I am glad that someone else is solving a problme that i dreaded resolving....... I have a roush susp + 2 inch shackles and shortened the rear endlinks 4 inches. The swaybar hits the frame just like yours..... I left the endlinks stock originally, but the rear end wasn't right....

Good luck