Gang,

A set of 1100 lb coils from Ruslow were delivered today via FedEx and summarily installed. Much thanks to Stan!!

The previous 1000 coils are/were good but the goal is to keep the front as flat as possible in the corners with assistance from QA1's and Hotchkis sway bars fore and aft.

Had them installed and the truck out for a test drive in about an hour and a half taking breaks to polish off a couple of Coronas. The rubber spring isolator from the stock springs was used so as to lift the front a bit.

Initial test drive afforded the opportunity to play with a Mach1 in a decreasing radius on ramp. Filling his mirror with HD grill through the entire corner then blast past him at the bottom of the ramp was priceless.

Thanks again Stan!

Bob

 

Would that be 116th St? Done the same thing (minus the Mach1, but probably startled some others).

Bob,

Can't access my insightbb email (again). Can you email me? I need to know if you have something.

olefafl@aol.com

 

How much did these springs drop the truck? Any other mods to lower the front on yours?

 

fafl,

116th st onto the frontage road for 69/37 indeed.

sent you an email.

RDSVT,

No other mods to lower the front, just the coils. Corrected bumpstops and endlinks for the sway bar remained.

The 1000lb coils lowered the truck ~ 1.75". The 1100lb fitment are the same size height wise. Using the isolator, while hindering feedback somewhat, raised the front back to near stock height. Give and take and it was too low.

Bob

 

So 100 lbs made a big difference?

I'm moving up to a set of 1,100's from the Hotchkis 950's, and I really wasn't expecting much.

 

No such thing as too low, Robert ! Now I can't
wait to get my 1200's in. Did you drop the upper
control arm? Then have to align again? Or do the
lower ball joint method?

Thanks,

Cliff

 

The ball joint method did not work at all for me. They were absolutely frozen in place. Pickle forks are likely to destroy the joint, so if you are going that route, I would buy a ball joint press before I got started.

I removed the upper control arm.



Then I could get a good angle on the upper ball joint with a 5 lb convincer.

 

On what setting are the QA1's?

-Monty

 

Tim,

There isn't a big difference but it is noticible. Switching from the sorry azz excuse for a spring commonly referred to as Eibach to the 1000lb-ers, now THAT was a big difference.

Cliff,

I know I know, it's never too low.

With the shock and end link removed along with the brake line support bracket detached, the control arm was supported with the floor jack.

The upper ball joint castle nut was loosened (not removed yet) and the spindle 'tapped' a few times with a ball peen hammer. Once the two seperated, remove castle nut, lift up on the control arm, and slowly lower the floor jack. The spring will literally fall out. Easy easy.

Having the truck farther up on the jackstands helps alot also. More swing room for the lower control arm.

I'll drive it a few days and possibly remove the isolator before having aligned.

Monty,

Initially, the fronts were set to 6 and the rears on 4


Bob

 

NFW either of my upper joints would come out using that method.

Even after installing the new upper arms, the new ball joints were stuck in there also.

If I were not able to easily take the new control arms apart with 1/2" bolts, I would have bought a ball joint press.

 

Any idea what the roush springs are.......900-1000? I would not mind going stiffer but I do not want to screw with my L's stance!

Jerry

 

Bob,
How is the ride compared to stock or to your previous Eibachs?
TB

 

Tim, what control arms are those?

 

DJM upper arm and DJM 2" lower arm.

-Monty

 

I too am wondering about this...anyone?