absolute proper shackle install
absolute proper shackle install
I just purchased some BellTech 2" drop shackles and want to know the absolute proper technical route for the perfect install. I have heard of shimming being required at some points. So far I know the torque spec for the spring bolts to be 73-97 ft lbs and to take before and after measurements to determine proper amount to shorten sway bar end links but how about shimming. Do I just reverse the factory shim or what ?
Craig
04' Sonic Blue
Craig
04' Sonic Blue
I have not corrected my sway bar yet, but here is my write-up of the JLP 3" shackle install:
Shackle How-To
Good luck !!!
Shackle How-To
Good luck !!!
I didnt need a shim change with my '03 and DJM 2" shackles either. Runs great. Didn't adjust my swaybar or anything like that either.
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cglenn -
I cannot answer your question, but you can: Look at the driveline angle BEFORE you do anything to the truck.
Look carefully at the driveshaft / rearend alignment. The driveshaft will look like it is almost perfectly straight with the "snout" of the pinion on the rearend.
Once you install your shackles, analyze this alignment. If it is no longer straight, you might need to make a shim adjustment.
Remember, the u-joints are there to allow the driveline to change angles. But, the proper alignment would be straight when the truck is sitting still (suspension not flexing, as when driving).
As far as not making adjustments for the sway bar:
Ford installed the sway bar with a certain length end link for the sway bar. Lowering the rear end changes this geometry and therefore the sway bar end links should be adjusted to maintain this geometry.
Just because you don't HEAR or FEEL a problem does not mean it is OK or good to leave it alone. I have to believe there is a LOT of stress on the bar / end links/ mounting points all the time when the truck is lowered and no adjustments have been made to the end links. I think the bar should normally have little or no stress on it, until you go around a corner...
I plan on adjusting mine as soon as I can get more than 48 hours in my own state...
Good luck !!
I cannot answer your question, but you can: Look at the driveline angle BEFORE you do anything to the truck.
Look carefully at the driveshaft / rearend alignment. The driveshaft will look like it is almost perfectly straight with the "snout" of the pinion on the rearend.
Once you install your shackles, analyze this alignment. If it is no longer straight, you might need to make a shim adjustment.
Remember, the u-joints are there to allow the driveline to change angles. But, the proper alignment would be straight when the truck is sitting still (suspension not flexing, as when driving).
As far as not making adjustments for the sway bar:
Ford installed the sway bar with a certain length end link for the sway bar. Lowering the rear end changes this geometry and therefore the sway bar end links should be adjusted to maintain this geometry.
Just because you don't HEAR or FEEL a problem does not mean it is OK or good to leave it alone. I have to believe there is a LOT of stress on the bar / end links/ mounting points all the time when the truck is lowered and no adjustments have been made to the end links. I think the bar should normally have little or no stress on it, until you go around a corner...
I plan on adjusting mine as soon as I can get more than 48 hours in my own state...
Good luck !!
Originally posted by B-Man
cglenn -
I cannot answer your question, but you can: Look at the driveline angle BEFORE you do anything to the truck.
Look carefully at the driveshaft / rearend alignment. The driveshaft will look like it is almost perfectly straight with the "snout" of the pinion on the rearend.
Once you install your shackles, analyze this alignment. If it is no longer straight, you might need to make a shim adjustment.
Remember, the u-joints are there to allow the driveline to change angles. But, the proper alignment would be straight when the truck is sitting still (suspension not flexing, as when driving).
As far as not making adjustments for the sway bar:
Ford installed the sway bar with a certain length end link for the sway bar. Lowering the rear end changes this geometry and therefore the sway bar end links should be adjusted to maintain this geometry.
Just because you don't HEAR or FEEL a problem does not mean it is OK or good to leave it alone. I have to believe there is a LOT of stress on the bar / end links/ mounting points all the time when the truck is lowered and no adjustments have been made to the end links. I think the bar should normally have little or no stress on it, until you go around a corner...
I plan on adjusting mine as soon as I can get more than 48 hours in my own state...
Good luck !!
cglenn -
I cannot answer your question, but you can: Look at the driveline angle BEFORE you do anything to the truck.
Look carefully at the driveshaft / rearend alignment. The driveshaft will look like it is almost perfectly straight with the "snout" of the pinion on the rearend.
Once you install your shackles, analyze this alignment. If it is no longer straight, you might need to make a shim adjustment.
Remember, the u-joints are there to allow the driveline to change angles. But, the proper alignment would be straight when the truck is sitting still (suspension not flexing, as when driving).
As far as not making adjustments for the sway bar:
Ford installed the sway bar with a certain length end link for the sway bar. Lowering the rear end changes this geometry and therefore the sway bar end links should be adjusted to maintain this geometry.
Just because you don't HEAR or FEEL a problem does not mean it is OK or good to leave it alone. I have to believe there is a LOT of stress on the bar / end links/ mounting points all the time when the truck is lowered and no adjustments have been made to the end links. I think the bar should normally have little or no stress on it, until you go around a corner...
I plan on adjusting mine as soon as I can get more than 48 hours in my own state...
Good luck !!
Also the two inch shackles will most likely not take all the rake out. I used the JLP 3" drop shackles and I got about a 2.5" to 2.3/4" drop. I also had to flip my shims due to vibration, which is why those that use the 2" drop usually do not change the shims.
Now on top of all this most people say to have the truck realigned. So after I installed my shackels and then found out that I had a vibration I took it to my suspension guy and let him go at it. He only charged about $60.00 to flip the shims and do an alignment. For a few more I could have got him to due the shackles also. BTW my alignment was out due to the drop of course but also the toe was out from the factory.


