A little Torque Converter Help

I thought i had narrowed down my torque converter search but i think i am more lost now than when i started. I was going to go with the P.I. converter and when searching the different vendors that sell the converter. I find that they all sell diff stall speeds JDM 2500 stall LFP 2400 stall RPM 2800 stall JLP & PSP 2600 stall . What stall speed should i run. What converter are you running speed and brand. There is alot of cheaper converters out there whats the best thanks in advance for all the help.

 

I'd suggest going with the highest quality one you can with a *lower* rpm rating. Your already making decent power and it's not likely to go down.

As far as the stall speeds go, it's not an exact number. Each convertor has it's own internal clearance variations & the stall speed is also determined by the torque output of the engine. A stock Lightning won't stall as high as yours would even if using the exact same convertor. So basicly it's not an exact and repeatable number. Having said all that... generally speaking your stall speed will be within a 200-300 rpm range of it's advertised speed.

I have a REM (suncoast) unit and with my mods I'm seeing right at 2500 stall and I L-O-V-E it! Would highly recommend it! Makes the truck and a FTVB more pleasant when driving easy... and quicker when it's hammer time.

Rich

 

I run the Factory Tech Billet 2600 stall for a year now with no compliants.

 

I am working on my lightning and I was wondering what kind of gain I would get from a torque converter?

 

thanks for the info

as for gains they clain 3 to 5 tenths

 

Ok heres my question...... would a stall help me if im always on the street and on street tires? My is a sreet warrior

 

Only bad people race on the street.

I've found that with F1s the convertor is easier to take off hard with on the street. It *seems* to be easier to control/pedal if the tires do spin.


IMO the difference between spinning and traction on the dragstrip is a finer line than it was pre-convertor.


Oh and I've always heard a gen 2 will gain 0.1 in the 1/4. I think that's about right. It really comes down to how well you hook off the line. If your spinning now then a convertor will only make it worse. My (F1) ETs actually went up since. It's pretty hard at my local track to launch.

IMO if your in the high 12s and above it's not really a great bang for the buck. Does make the truck more easy going at light throttle though.

Just my 2 cents, Rich

 

Rich,

What converter are you running and whats the adv stall.

 

I'll refer you my first post in this very thread.

j/k Rich

 

oops

 

Only two guys on this whole board have converters

well thanks for those of you that did try to help

 

I have Factory Techs unit, but have not yet installed it. I bought it on the strength of his support for his VB and also for his Monster Boxes. I will be more than happy to let you know what I think of it after it is installed. I will be very dissapointed if it is less than great.

Mark

 

I had the PI 2400 for a couple of years and it turns out it was a pretty good converter, they are strong as hell quality wise but it wasn't enough of a change in the truck to justify the cost thats for sure.

Since then I have switched to a 2800 stall Yank converter. The first time I drove the truck with the Yank I was really wondering if I did the right thing. At first it "Seemed" a little on the loose side.
But now that I have had a chance to put a few miles on it, I'm liking it more everytime I drive it.

The difference between the Yank and the PI unit is like night and day. The PI converter was so close to stock, I couldn't hardly tell it was in there and that was a little disappointing not to mention the clutch rattle that mine had.

Speaking of clutches.....the 3 plate clutch in the PI is strong, JDM set up a chip for me that leaned on that clutch pretty heavy and it took the abuse with out problems. The Yank converter is a single plate unit.....not sure how thats going to work out.

The Yank converter is quiet and is starting to become one of my favorite mods....but time will tell, I haven't drag raced it with this converter yet and I have only put about 200 street miles on it but it wouldn't matter, the whole engine combo was changed so any strip numbers would be meaningless as far as a comparison between the two are concerned.

I knew going in that Yank made a quality product but wasn't sure if they could handle spec'ing out a converter for a supercharged truck.....I think they know what they are doing.
Dale

 

If you don't race for money, or for serious bragging rights, I don't think a converter is worth the money (howmany guys who sell them will tell you that????)

The Yank is a fine unit, in fact its a damn fine unit, someone bought one and had me install it in the Monster Box when I built it, and we payed real close attention to how it behaved on the test stand, impressive. (nad how many people who make converters will tell you that about one someone else made???)

Obviously, I'm kind of partial to the Factory Tech Total Domination, I spent a long time fiddling around with them to make it, and since I really didn't intend at the time to make very many, and don't make very much on them when I do, I really went at it with the attitude that it doesn't matter what it costs, I just want to make the best converter I can figure out how to, and I'm pretty pleased with it. The stock converter in a Gen2 has a triple plate by the way, and I've never ben fond of them, or any mulitplate lockup clutch, I think it's a gimmick, plain and simple, athey have too many parts that can and do break (well, not so much break as malfucntion, but you get the idea) and I've never seen a triple plate that hasn't knocked divits inside the coverplate and I have yet to have anyone tell me where that ferous contamination went that isn't bad. I have also hardly ever seen a lockup plate burned up that wasn't damaged by a root cause outside the converter or clutch itself, with a good high energy friction surface, I'm convinced all you need is the single plate and it's more reliable, too, and they never rattle. I'm especially turned off by triple plate converters that don't have splined coverplates, (hardly any do, by the way). If you don't spline the friction plates to the cover, they are not providing any extra holding power, they are only holding each other and the net is the aftermarket triple plate is weaker than the stock triple plate by 2/3 (assuming the surface area is the same, which in fairness it's usually not, but still, it's still effectively a single plate clutch with extra parts in it).

Just thought I'd chime in, and get free plug in, too!

G

 

As usual I learned something Good post Greg....I didn't know the stock converter was a 3 plate, I had heard early on that it was a 2 plate.
Thanks Dale

PS....Love the MBox