Put the Ceramic Pads in front + rear (what a tit job) took no time
at all. The Factory brakes still had time left on them, like I knew they'd be at 12K, but the new pads were at least double the thickness. (the rear pads were extremly thin)

So one would think with 100% more brake I should have got my pedal back, RIGHT ??? -->WRONG<--
I can still push the pedal ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR BOARD,
even in gear now, WTF is going on ???

The good news is the ceramic brakes do feel great, the squeaking stopped immediatly, and I will have MUCH LESS,
brake dust now, I have no regrets putting them in, plus like I said
they have at least twice the meat on them. A matter of fact on the way over this morning they were squealing like a pig, TG thats gone. BUT I STILL NEED MY GOT DAM PEDAL BACK.

No I didn't get to bleed them, too busy of a day, got a dump truck of sand this morning, then another deliver of patio block,
then over to my Fathers to get another delivery of slate,
then we dug and installed a fountain, dropped the kid at a B-day party, bla bla bla, good thing I found time to at least put the new pads in.

Couple of questions ?
What's that inside the Master Cylinder, A check Valve ???
I tried the old trick of taking the cover off and pushing down oh so slowly all the way to the floor, (which usually pushes air out)
but not a movement of fluid took place ??? I guess that trick don't work with our master cylinders ???
I may actually have a bad one, cause the pedal def changes from time to time. One minute it's hard as a rock, the next the pedal is fading to the floor boards ??? WTF ???

I guess I have no choice but to bleed the schitt out of it tommorrow and hope that gets my pedal back ???

Anyone know what size the bleeder is ???
Do I need a closed end off set brake wrench, or can I get it with a Rachet and then use an open end ??? Any tricks I need to know,
or is the the usual routine ???

One way or another I got to get my pedal back ??????????????
When your driving the brakes stop awesome, but if you hit a light,
and press down the pedal will just go lower and lower until it actually hits the floor board.

IS IT JUST AIR IN THE LINE ?

 

Complete flush your fluid, put in new fluid, bleed, and you'll most likely be golden.



Dan

 

Ya, I think you hit it on the head Dan
I may not have a lot of miles on my L, but most of them are
1320 ft at a time
My old man couldn't figure out why the rear brakes were so much thinner than the fronts, he kept saying the rears should last double the front's.
He doesn't understand what it means to WARM UP THE HOOSIERS

OK New fluid and bleeding it is tommorrow.................

 

Bleed it and let us know.

 

Rob, unless your leaving something out that you have done in the process it sounds like your master cylinder is bad. I would properly bleed the system though before purchasing a master cylinder. I have been a mechanic for 8yrs and seen your problem many times. Almost always only been a poor bleed or bad master cylinder. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks 2000 yes it does help, everything helps at this point.
It was just such a crazy insane day, I really should have obviously
bleed them while I had it in the air on stands with the wheels off, but I was convinced after seeing the new pads were double the thickness I was gonna get my pedal back. NOT

I'll bleed them in the morning and let you all know.

 

Brake thickness has nothing to do with how much brake pedal you have. When you step on the pedal it applies pressure to the caliper which in turn makes you stop. The calipers hold more fluid as the pads get thinner but it still requires only the same pressure to stop regardless of pad thickness. Brakes work the same regardless of pad thickness.

 

One thing to always remeber when dealing with brakes, is NEVER EVER push your brake pedal past where it normally travels. In other words, if you bleed your brakes, or if you put new pads on and then you "pump" the pedal up to push the pistons out to seat them to the rotors, never push the pedal all the way to the floor. What can happen is, your M/C bore starts to wear over time. And the "unseated" part of the bore can either get buildup on it, or it will be smaller than the worn part, like a ring ridge on an old cylinder. Then you push the pedal into that section, and it tears or damages the piston seal. It's not common, but it does happen.

 

Stop making sense. Your throwing Robs theory right out the window.

Rob doesn't deal in logic.


VINNIE

 

Thank you Vinnie, my exacts thoughts

Fan I guess I do have this theroy (here it comes)
OK yes the calipers maintain the same spacing with thick or thin pads in it, hence meaning they have the same distance to travel.
(I love that hence word)
But isn't it true that the pistons will be out further to maintain that clearance with thinner pads. And isn't it also true that the pistons only have a certain amount of movement available. ANd isn't even three times true that the more you push the brake pedal with your foot, the further the piston will be out.
SO
Wouldn't it make sence that when your pads are 1/2 the size of
a new pad, that the pistons will be out more, hence I'm convinced
that means I loose part of my pedal.
OR SOMETHING ????
(Please don't blow my theory to schitt, I'm convinced it's true)

And Sal
BOY OH BOY AM I IN TROUBLE
That never push the pedal all the way to the floor
ahh well I kinda been doing that A LOT lately "YIKES".
and that if you put new pads on and then you "pump" the pedal up to push the pistons out to seat them to the rotors, never push the pedal all the way to the floor well I kinda been doing that too. and that NEVER EVER push your brake pedal past where it normally travels ahh well ahh you guess it.

You know I'd prob be the first to agree that guys like me,
shouln't be aloud to reproduce

 

Rob lemme try to explain it, As your pads wear the caliper pistons have more volume to hold fluid. As you step on the brake pedal the fluid is transfered from brake resoviour to the caliper pistons, when you let off the brakes, that fluid doesnt come back into the resoviour, it stays in the caliper so next time you step on the brake it doesnt have to refill. The reverse explaination is when you replace worn pads and compress the caliper piston in, your fluid level rises back up in the resoviour. If you have keep up in topping brake fluid as the brakes wear, your fluid will overflow out the resoviour.

 

Didn't V tell you logic plays no part in my theory's, hehehehe

Thanks for explaining it Big, over 3 decades working on that theory shot to schitt in one post
I guess I knew all along, it somehow adjusted itself as the pads wore down, I just didn't want to face the facts. I know good old fashion drum brakes DO exactly as I described.
Is there a 12 step program to help me get through this

Ok it's 8ish Sunday morn, time to go over to my parents driveway
and bleed these bad boys ??????????????????????

 

Not a drop of air in the system
Bleed them all a good three times each, let lots of fluid come out
each time, added fluid three times inbetween bleeding, then
topped it back off. Pretty much still the same.
Start the car, push the brake so you can take it out of Drive,
the pedal is very mushy and goes way too low, then you put it in gear, and touch the brakes again, and the pedal is where it belongs.

It does seem that bleeding it helped a tiny bit as far as the driving pedal goes. The brakes are working perfect, pedal is high and hard, stops on a dime, stays fine at a light now, but as soon as you drop it into N or P at a light, mush the pedal sinks again,
put it back in gear take your foot off the brake and back on,
WAM you got your pedal back.

Thats it, it stays that way, what-r-u-gonna-do but add it to the list of things you put up with. All I care about right now is the squealing and squeaking is finally gone from the factory brakes,
YIP YIP YIPPY YIA I have a good driving pedal, and the ceramic pads WILL cut down on the dust.

I'll keep an eye on it a while and see what happens

 

loss of vacuum resulting in the ported Eaton you installed.

see you other thread