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Help on part numbers + needed tool for F+R Brakes

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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 06:32 AM
  #1  
Rob_02Lightning's Avatar
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From: Selden NY
Help on part numbers + needed tool for F+R Brakes

I know you've told me before, cant find the info

My Brakes are real real bad, I got to do it, the squeaking is getting to me, and I still have a mushy low pedal.
not even 13K on it ???? Too many 1320 stops I guess, hehehehe

I got a new Auto Zone at my corner, do they sell them
Anyone know the part numbers F+R ?
What special Socket or tool do I need ?

Thanks

I'm gonna try and do it this weekend weather permitting
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 08:20 AM
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I've got the same project lined up for this weekend.


Try this link, Rob:

http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread...ighlight=brake

Some good pics in there.


Another thing, I've heard that NAPA has some really good Ceramix pads - less dust, and good stopping power. I forget the part #, got it somewhere, but a search should pull it up.


As far as sockets? ...dunno. Got myself one hell of a set, so I'm sure I've got the right size somewhere...
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 11:22 AM
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Get the NAPA "Ceramix" pads!!! they are great!

Front Brake Pads - CMX-7576
Rear Brake Pads - CMX-7584

I had my front rotors turned yesterday.. to take the calipers off, you'll need a star/torx bit to remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on..


i bled my brakes & put in new valvoline brake fluid a while back.. it helped with the mushy pedal.


 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 11:34 AM
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Mine are real mushy. I prob. need to change mine also.

One question:

You don’t need to bleed the brakes to put on pads do you. I know dumb question but I have never worked on brakes.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 12:24 PM
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no, you don't have to bleed the brakes to replace the pads..

My brake fluid had turned black & the pedal was mushy.. thats when i changed the fluid.


this is what i got..

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?Product=51


I bought several large containers of the fluid & bled each corner till clear fluid came through. I was surprised at all the air bubbles that was in the lines with the stock fluid!
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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Rob-

Use the old (inner) pads and a C-clamp to compress the pistons.

Otherwise the advise you've been given is good


-Andy
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 12:54 PM
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Thanks All
You convinced me to shoot for the Ceramic brakes, this dust is getting insane, after a 10 minute drive my rims are black,
I heard the ceramic help that prob too ?

WOW didn't realize everyone else has the mushy pedal too. Am I alone in the fact that when I first start the truck, AND IT'S STILL IN PARK, I can push my pedal almost ALL THE WAY to the floor boards, "YIKES".
But once I put it in gear, wam the pedal gets harder and comes back up to height. The truck actually still stops on a dime, but the squealing and mushy pedal has me assuming it needs brakes @ 12K.

WHAT KIND OF MILES ARE YOU GUYS GETTING ???

And Yes Andy, I know that trick

I think I know where one Napa Automotive store is,
I'll try it tonight, incase they must be ordered.
Just need to make sure I got the right socket
anyone know the size ???

THANKS AGAIN
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 01:23 PM
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Rob-

Sorry man, ya never know who know's what on here.

The slide pins are T-40, the brake caliper anchor plate bolts are 18mm. Backs are 10mm.

If you want to go nuts, bleed the DOT 3 out and change to DOT 4.

I did this, makes a big difference.

-Andy
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 01:42 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by clonetek
[B]Get the NAPA "Ceramix" pads!!! they are great!

Front Brake Pads - CMX-7576
Rear Brake Pads - CMX-7584


I had the above pads on my truck and took them off. They impart way too much heat to the rotors. I blued my rotors and started forming surface cracking in one week of street driving. Also, they fade much more than the stock pads. No dust though.

I went with the Hawks, but they are very dusty. So it depends on your driving style.

Mark #2
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 02:00 PM
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Originally posted by Rob_02Lightning

WOW didn't realize everyone else has the mushy pedal too. Am I alone in the fact that when I first start the truck, AND IT'S STILL IN PARK, I can push my pedal almost ALL THE WAY to the floor boards, "YIKES".
But once I put it in gear, wam the pedal gets harder and comes back up to height. The truck actually still stops on a dime, but the squealing and mushy pedal has me assuming it needs brakes @ 12K.

WHAT KIND OF MILES ARE YOU GUYS GETTING ???
Your not alone Rob, mine do that too. I dont get squealing though. I'm at 37k now, and the dust is horrible.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 02:58 PM
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http://home.midsouth.rr.com/lightningpage/tips.html
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 03:33 PM
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Rob_02Lightning's Avatar
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Got to Love Chucks Site, got dam I learned alot there

Great info, Thanks

No you have me concerned about the ceramic brakes
100% of my driving is side streets, county roads, lots of stop and go, and 2 parkway exits a day, should I stick with the reg pads ?
or these Hawks ?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 06:52 PM
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I've had my Ceramix pads since 07-20-2002. 4 more months will be 2 years, and I'll probably change them out then.

I have 76,xxx miles on my truck & I love the Ceramix pads!
Brake dust isn't a problem anymore!! LOL


 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 07:15 PM
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Originally posted by clonetek
...this is what i got..

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?Product=51
...
Hey thats the stuff I got sitting in the garage.


And you don't have to bleed the brakes when changing the pads, but I'd recommend it.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 07:18 PM
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I bleed/flush my brake fluid every season.
 
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