Thought I would start a new thread so maybe I could catch more attention and get the answer...

Anyway, here is whats happening

I sent my blower off to get ported, got it back last WED and installed it... the port and installation went great... couldnt be better..

but when I took it out for my test drive, i noticed something wasnt right... its not driving good at all.

** by the way, i did the boost bypass mod AND the plug is unplugged**

now, when I stomp on it and get to full WOT sometimes I will not even get any boost at all.. it will stay at "0" on my boost guage and the pedal feels real heavy...

then I will try again and see about 11-12 (but i figure i should be about 14) on my boost guage... its very inconsistant.. sometimes i get boost, sometimes I dont... its that simple...

well, Saturday I took it to the dyno and my first run was like 305... obviously no boost... well the guy kinda wiggles the rod on the boost actuator a little and then my next run was 396.... but I still think i should be higher than that... i was thinking i would be around 410...

anyway, so im thinking in shipping, my boost actuator got bumped or something and its sticking now... not giving me all my boost or none at all...

so my question is... is there a way to fix this, or should I just replace the whole rubber boost atuator??? can I do the installation without removing the entire SC again??

thanks guys..

 

ok, just sprayed some wd40 on it and tried to move it up and down... moved it up and down like twice, then presure or something built up and i couldnt move it anymore... was too hard...

so i started up the truck and let it sit at idle, that rod didnt move at all... i then moved the throttle body cable to rev the engine a little... and then i reved it ALOT... and that rod never even moved

 

maybe you did not install it right when you put the blower back on. Did you have the probelm before? Maybe take it off, clean it and reinstall

 

i dont think i had this problem before... but now I think about it i might have i dunno... never really looked at my boost guage that much.... i know before the port i was about 11 and now when it does actually work... im still at 11-12....


i just disconnected both the hoses... and neither one of them SUCK... i dont know, but i figured one of them should have some suction or them right?? well neither do...

i then got inside and looked at the boost guage and reved it up once and never got above 0... and i reved again with the throttle body and that rod never moved....

 

Don't know if this helps, but on the GTP (3.8L w/M90) the bypass was always open (no boost) when you were in neutral. Its been a while since I had my GTP, but don't think my bypass was even computer controlled. They must have used some trick with the routing of the vacuum line to accomplish it. Our engines might be setup the same way.

So if I was you, I'd take it out on the road before you deem it still broken.

EDIT: I said neutral, I meant neutral or park.

 

well im at work, so i dont have alot of time to play with it... but i just took it around the block.... i dont know if its all of a sudden fixed or if its just a coincidence (because it would work sometimes and not sometimes) but this time it worked.... i got it up to about 12lbs boost on my autometer guage... but my stock guage looked to maybe be a little higher... it was pointing to about 10oclock...

im a little curious.... with the ported eaton, dont people usually gain about 2-3??? i figure i should be 14-15....

 

Hey Scott,

From the sound of it your's is toast....

I acually broke mine when I was taking the Eaton out, I snapped one of the vacum nipples right off.

So I called around for a replacement.......... Ok, 155 bucks and they were on back order.

This is a tuff peice to find.

I talked to Brain at Apten, he had a extra, and charged me 25 bucks.

I don't know if this was a perk for being a customer, but it would be worth a call to see if you could get one for 25 bucks.

Hope this helps...

 

well good news and bad news...

bad news is im imbarrased.... good news is i got it fixed... it was the pink vacum hose was crimped up too far into the boost bypass elbow... so it couldnt vacume...

whoohoooo, seeing like 15 on boost guage now!!!

by the way, truck is fast

 

 

LOL! There we go!!

 

finally...
if i were you, i would leave all the vac. lines in there stock position and just unplug the electrical connection. some may not agree, but that way you don't have to worry about mixing the lines or blocking the wrong thing. Remember dyno the truck while it is cool. It's not gonna make impressive numbers if the truck is heat soaked. glad you got it fixed though.!

 

I'm happy for you man!

 

thanks again guys for all trying to help.. i appreciate it... its nice to have a problem and then have you guys to help out.... how did we all live before the internet?? lol

anyway, i did that... i put the boost bypass back to stock and just unplugged it

 

That's fantastic Scott!!!

Glad it's over.

Now if someone could please tell me why mine is buzzing back there after the truck heates up????

 

I should come over there and smack you upside the head Scott

We've been e-mailing back and forth how many times on this,
and in every e-mail I sent you, I said CHECK THE VAC LINES,
I even send you pictures of that PINK LINE

And here you were ready to blame the world famous WASP,
tisk tisk tisk.............