Hello,

I was wondering if anyone has a link to the lower pulley instructions. I have seen the PSP ones, is there any others?

Thanks
Dan

 

Here's some I wrote up for a buddy, to make it go qucker:



- Remove the intercooler reservoir with the 10mm nut holding it in.
- Use 1/2 ratchet to loosen tensioner, and take off factory belt (you'll have to route it behind the tensioner arm, and also around the fan blades to get it off)
- Route new belt in the process (makes it easier later)
- Get under truck - only need to jack up one side or put on ramps.
- Remove the bolts that hold the factory caged pulley on. You'll need a 13mm deep socket if I remember correctly.
- Slide back behind the oil pan and in front of the transmission
- Remove the passenger side bolt on the tranny inspection plate - 13mm nut. Loosen the driver's side bolt, and turn the plate out of the way to see the converter.
- Put 1/2" breaker bar and hex socket into the stock lower pulley. Turn until one of the converter bolts is 3 inches from where you removed the tranny inspection plate bolt (3 inches from the passenger side bolt hole)
- Put the removal tool over the inspection plate hole, put the bolt through it back into the hole. Align the tool to the top of the trans converter bolt. Tighten down the trans inspection plate bolt. This will hold the engine from turning. Saves time trying to remove those torque converter nuts.
- Break the factory pulley free. I put my feet against the drivers side wheel, and pulled on the breaker bar. REMEMBER: CLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN! You'll pull the bottom of the breaker bar TOWARDS the passenger side wheel
- Pull of the old pulley, align the 3 bolt holes on the new pulley to the holes in the balance crankshaft.
- Put in the new allen bolts. Tighten down REAL good. It's easier with a 3" extension and the correct sized allen socket. I made the mistake of not buying one.
- Align the new belt, and you're done. Put the intercooler reservoir back.


That's the short of it.

 

those are great.....put need more specifics

my tranny cooling lines are hitting the new pulley. is that normal? do you just bend them? The old bracket holds them right up against the edge of the pulley.

Thanks for the quick response.

Dan

 

I just did this pulley install last weekend. You will need to do something about the coolant lines as they are not supposed to rub the pulley. I am sure that eventually the lines will wear through at an inconvenient moment. All I did was bend the lines just enough to keep them out of the way and then I put the bracket back on there. I used the bracket to help keep the lines from rubbing. I am gonna climb back under there soon to make a more permanent fix to the lines. Also, remember to remove the tranny bracket as I bet if you tried to start the engine then it would not be happy.

 

Just bend them away for clearance. That is what I did.

 

You didn't worry about kinking them?

JRJEN, I have already removed the tranny lockdown.

 

I have a 6# lower. You can bend them enough to clear if you are careful without kinking them.

 

I was under my L this weekend putting on my new grill and noticed my lines were getting pretty damn close to my pulley (6lb) I just zip tied it to the bracket below it to pull it down a little.

 

Only thing right below mine is the steering stuff....and that moves. So I don't want to zip tie to that.