ok, as you know I just installed the ported eaton and was having problems. I didnt notice any increase in power. in fact, i felt like I might have lost power.. well I didnt think that was possible... so I took it to Speedworks on Saturday...

before the ported eaton I my dyno run was 388, so i got there on Saturday and my first run was 305... yes and thats not a typ-o... really 305... so the guy up there obviously knew something was wrong... so you know that little rubber boot thingy (dont know the name of it) thats connected to the supercharger that controls the boost... it has a small rod that moves up and down....???

well he kinda just wiggled that a little and we tried again on the dyno.. my next run was 396... alot better... but not where i wanted.... only 8hp better for a ported eaton??? anyway, continued one more time and was like 395... truck was probably pretty warm by this time...

while it was on the dyno, we were watching my 2 boost guages (stock and autometer) and neither got above like 12pounds.... i was at 12 before the port job... and not only that, he said usually these things immedialy jump up to about 10 or so... well mine was going real slow... the boost was climbing but doing it real slow...

anyway, on my way home i was kinda playing around alot to see... and sometimes I would get on it and basically have like no boost... it would top out around like 5-6.... then another time, it would just up to about 10-12...

so something is acting very weird.... why is my boost sticking?? could it be that rod in that rubber thing?? what do I do to fix this problem???

p.s. there is a red/green wire with a clip thats near that rubber boot thing... is that the plug for the boost bypass? i unclipped that once and tried it and it made a HUGE difference.... i almost got whiplash... i was excited... i think that one time i was at about 15lbs boost... but dont know if it was a coinedence or if it really had to do with unplugging that wire... anyway, its raining too much to play...

 

If I am not mistaken someone mentiones it may be the boost actuator in your last post about this problem. I have heard of them sticking before. If the guy pulled on the plunger and then it made more power then my "guess" is the plunger is sticking robbing you of boost. I may be way off on left field here though.

 

These links may help...

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...t+and+actuator

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...t+and+actuator

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...t+and+actuator

Hope that ehlps and hope thats your problem so you can fix this puppy.

,Jason

 

PS: I am sure one of the tunners or mechanics will chime in here and help you out more then I can.

 

It will be ok to unplug the boost bypass. It will not throw a major code and you will notice a boost increase of 2-3 psi. I still think you need a reburn, and your tuner should be able to disable the boost "dump" through the chip.. You picked up horsepower on a back to back run. You definetly need to let the truck cool ALL THE WAY DOWN. Get a little more aggresive with the tune, you live in texas, so no major worry for those northeastern temps. After the reburn and maybe a new accutator, dyno it with the truck cooled down. Anyone on here that has dynoed or went to the track can tell you that these trucks are very "temp" sensitive. The first time i dynoed i lost 15hp and 20ft lbs of torque on my 2nd back to back dyno run(5 min cool off....not nearly long enough) , changing nothing. A friend of mine lost nearly 40ftlbs of torque on his back to back run. Glad you found a problem though, Once you get that worked out and get that boost bypass unplugged i'm sure your gonna be alot happier.

 

Read my e-mail Scott

 

Ronbo,

thank you for not posting the LONG winded answer that probaly just says you need more timing, because I am at work and do not have the extra time to read it. LOL

Scott, Hope everything works out for ya.

VINNIE

 

You read my mind.




Yeah, I know it's a short read.

 

Make sure your boost actuator is adjusted properly.

Scroll down the page to the boost actuator adjustment.

Boost Actuator Adjustment

 

So if you unplug that boost bypass you will gain 2-3 psi?

 

The Boostby pass will not increase boost at all, a adjustment will however decrease the duration it takes for boost to come on.

 

well my truck made 12 psi with the 4lb pulley and modded stock airbox. After i unplugged the bypass deal it made 14 to 15psi. that equals 2-3 where i come from. I've also read this from other people. If you dont do the bypass mod you will not see as much boost.

 

I hate it when I'm right

 

well i think you guys are right, it has to be that acuator.... i think maybe it got pumped in shipping or something... yesterday the rain cleared out and I went and played a little...

one time i would punch the pedal full WOT and still only see a "0" on my boost guage... wierd huh??

then a few mins later I would try it again and see about "12"

there is no consistancy here at all... sometimes the boost comes on, sometimes it doesnt...

does anyone know much about this part? are they cheap to replace? pretty easy to install without taking the whole SC out again? or even better... is there a way to 'fix' the problem??

 

Keep in mind if you are running more boost you need to unplug the pybass solenoid or do the bypass mod. I dont know if you have either one yet but if you dont then when you hit high boost its going to kick in and only give you 0 psi of boost for a little while.

Good luck on getting it fixed. You may want to make a new post asking your questions in your last post. (ABout fixing or replacing the actuator). That way more people will see it and be able to help.