For the record I am having traction problems! Whether it be the 3" lower on an '03 that tightens the rear (even though I adjusted the anti-sway bar arms to compensate) or the lack of 500 hp to the rear support from the Truk Track Slappers???

Conditions were ideal, 60 degrees, very little humidity and yet only a .12 time difference and 1 more mph.

The 15lbs in the hoosiers simple does not work with my set up. My first run I was almost in the middle of the track after a terrible no traction hoosiers spinning launch. Lowered air pressure to 13 lbs and still heard a scratch on launch.

I improved to a 7.72 at 89.90 mph, best 60ft 1.72, but unfortunately only got three runs in, do to the fact I forgot my helmet, duh! (anything under an 8 at Immokolee and you gotta have the helmet)

I am seriously thinking about the 90/10 shocks in the front and the longer "rancho" style JLP traction bars - before I spend the bucks on the torque converter. I am headed to Bradenton next Thursday night for a test and tune on the quarter. The truth will be told there, hopefully.

Who ever said racing wasn't a science hasn't raced.

Thoughts, appreciated!


D-Day

 

ANY DAY AT THE RACES IS A GREAT DAY
(when you can drive it home afterwards that is)

CONGRATS DAN THE MAN
and Take any improvement as a positive improvement,
I haven't gone backwards yet while racing.
Don't understand your traction Problems Bro, but a 1.7 on Hoosiers is not terrible. But I will say this, I run my 28x10 Hoosiers at 19lbs. But at Eng Town I asked around and tried 16lbs, and dam near killed myself swaying from one side of the track to the other. I don't understand how you can run them so low, yet you say your still spinning ????

What Launch Tecnique are you using ?

Either Way, you improved and had fun, CONGRATS...
now hit a real got dam track and get some 1/4 et's will you

 

That's true, thanks Rob.

My first run I tried your " hit the mother frucker with everything I had" technique (this was at 15lbs) and literaly spun into the center with my right side tires out of the lane (embarrassing).

Second and third run (third the best) I brake torqued her to 2000 rpms on the first of three ambers and let her go on the third just before the green. I would hear the tire break then grab.

Next Thursday I am going to Bradenton, the 1/4 with a local tuner and hopefully with him watching we might be able to pin point a few areas for further improvement.

D-Day

 

My 26.5" ET streets are pretty small. But at 16psi they SWAY on the top end along with having a scratching/spinning sound when coming off the line. Oh and on the 1-2 shift as well.

I only have one years experience with this type of tire, so I'm no expert. It confuses me a bit on how some fellas can run low psi for best results. And how others can run higher psi for best results?

I just know that I could'nt imagine running mine at 13psi.

Rich

 

I agree with Robo2 in that any improvement is a positive thing. I run Hoosier 28x10x16 at 17lbs and average 1.7 60',

 

It sounds like the low air presure has negative effects at the top end. Maybe I am not experiencing that because I am only reaching 89 mph in the 1/8th.

Correct me if I am wrong, but don't our 28x10x16 "c" compound Hoosiers have a harder side wall to support lower air pressure??

D-Day

 

16psi is good if you are running the 10" wide wheel. If you are running the smaller 7" - 8" wide wheel you are going to go for a ride at the top end.

 

Dan,
Sounds like you're on the right track. Get those damn Truck Tracks OFF OF THERE NOW! They may be OK for lightly modded trucks, but with the Power/Torque your truck is generating, they are not up to the task. They have a tendency to load and unload the suspension repeatedly on hard launches(especially with a stall or N2O). I had the Truck Tracks, and experienced this very issue.

I run the JLP lift bars now, and they have been SUPERB. The truck launches smooth and goes straight. My best 60' is a 1.60. Other options are the Metco bars(uppers or lowers), JDM bars, etc...

I'd get the bars BEFORE the stall converter, because without them the converter will be useless. When you hit those slicks, with 600+ lb/ft of torque, out of the hole, they need help to plant them and KEEP them planted. The bars extend all the way up under the frame of the truck. Then, upon launch, the "axle wrap" is transferred via the bars, to the frame of the truck which in turn "lifts" the front of the truck, and thus transferring the weight to the rear tires, and KEEPING said weight there as long as the truck is under acceleration. Hope this helps.

Later,
Rob

 

I did a 1.77 on Nitto Drs whan I had the 6# pulley on. My L is lowered 3"front 4 "rear. In the front I cut the springs, that makes them softer and when you remove the front sway bar the truck leans back alot. It plants the tires pretty good. Maybe your rear suspension is to tight or something, seems like youre not geting proper weight transfer.

 

D-Day, I think I'd add the long bars before the converter.
The longer Rancho style bars will slow the reaction of the suspension, among other things. This enables the slicks to have time to release the torque stored in the sidewalls. They also will complement a high stall torque converter because the 'lazy' suspension recovery from launch can bog an engine with too tight a converter. With the power you're making, It's probably wouldn't be perceptable, but it would show up in your ET.

 

Dan,
Try playing with the gap between the bars and the spring. You should get them to the sweet spot. I do however agree with the others as I changed to the longbars (JDM) on my truck once I hit the 12.0's and better. Now I ONLY adjust tire pressure and maybe tweak the QA-1's if the track is a real good or bad extreme. I couldn't get the slappers consistant after I got into the low 12's and started running pretty consistant 11.7/8's after the switch with no other changes.

Eric

 

Thanks for everyone's advice, I am ordering my longer trac bars today and I am looking forward to hitting the track as soon as I have them installed.

Have a great weekend!

D-Day