Nice work as always Sir Soap!!

Pondering black powdercoat for the C&L intake on my HD.

 

Looks very nice! Very nice indeed. Good job Joe.

I do prefer the REM composite elbow though. It's much lighter and disipates heat much quicker. (I'm all about function w/little reguard for bling though)

Rich

 

No problem Jeff

Thanks for the comments guys.

--Joe

 

You have mail

 

I see the idea is catching on, such a great tube that has been over looked as a potential dress up item for a while now. They also make an MAF housing that you can polish the same.

Im slowly working my way to a polished eaton.

 

Trying to catch up, eh Derick!
Nice polish job... I too had large pits in Konig's pipe when it was finally smooth and ready to be polished.

 

How do you guys polish things?? What tools are involved, i would imagine it takes alot of time, but is it that hard if you have the right tools? I want to polish my downs ford inlet pipe, its all rusty.

Jon

 

To qualify for polishing you must first
1) Have KNOW commen sense
and
2) Have the ability to bore yourself for HOURS upon HOURS

... if you qualify, run out and buy one of these!

Just remember polishing is 95% sanding and 5% actual polishing!

Get some greaseless compounds to use with the buffer, this will greatly cut time and cost. It can be bought in different grits (80, 120, 220 and 320), it's like paste sandpaper you apply to the spinning buffs and let dry. Once dry it turns hard and allows you to smooth parts easily. You will need to reapply compound every 10 minutes so it's advisable to have several buffs prepped before hand so your project goes quicker.

Sears 1HP buffer and stand.

 

Joe,Did you use a belt sander,Die grinder,bench grinder or what?
What Grit sandpaper did you use?i.e 150/220/400/600?
I have a 6" wheel grinder and a Die Griner and air compressor.
I know it's alot of work and it's messy,but it looks great!
I was gonna get mine Ceramic coated [it would help with heat soak] but I ice it down between runs anyway.
And you can't beat the "Bling Factor"!!
Thanks for any help.

 

Ideally you would use scotchbrite pads with an air grinder. For real heavy remove of metal I would use the same air grinder and switch to 40, 60 and 80 grit sanding discs. If you hand sand the parts you are just asking for a physical beatings! Remember to wash parts down as you switch from one medium to another... VERY IMPORTANT!

For detail sanding, porting and polishing I have bought a foot pedal operating canister dremel. Works eeff'en great! Mine is made by GROBET and purchased at Eastwoodco.com.

 

Whoa! That's looks killer. I'm going to have to order me up a tube and JLP air kit. I think I may attempt to polish the JLP air kit as well...BLING, BLING.

When you run the JLP air kit, is there a diff. in perf between just installing the stock tube through the fenderwell and running JLPs tube all the way through for a "ram air"-type setup?

-Monty

 

Remind me why I was going to put an M&M Customs logo on my truck again?

I cut your "leather piece" last night, gave you an extra 1/2 inch or so each direction. I still have to finish wrapping my lid and back wall trim now that I have the right spray glue.. Im finishing that up tonight hopefully... I should be able to drop off your piece Friday after 5

 

I have no good reason.

 

If you just want the Bling but don't want to do the polishing yourself there are several places to go such as http://www.nxtgenmotorsports.com/fordL_Cobra_harley.htm

 

dang, that guy more than doubled the price of the C&L tube, just because its polished. Those pics should be bigger, you cant judge that type of work by small pics