Here's the story. I left home today and the truck was running fine. I stopped to pay a toll still fine. At the next toll both when I stopped to pay I noticed it feeling like it wanted to shut down. I gave it gas and it took off just fine. I pulled over to look under the hood and all the coil packs were where they should be and I left again nailing it and it pulled like it always does. But at every subsequent stop it just sits and studders or something likes its going to die. Now I have shut it off and it wont turn back over. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am up in Pemeberton NJ and have to work in the morning and dont even know where the nearset dealer is. Thanks to anyone who might have some advice.

 

Try cleaning your IAC valve. If you don't know what that is, do a search of this forum there's a bunch of info about it. Good Luck.
~Craig

 

Just copy and pasted this from a post earlier today.
Good luck! Hope you make it home.

If you suspect your IAC and it very well could be here are a few checks to insure it is operating correctly.

1. Unplug connector to IAC.

2. Turn ignition switch to on (truck NOT running)

3. Measure the voltage at the IAC connector (the plug, not the IAC valve itself)

4. There should be approx. 10.5 – 12.5vdc (This tells you the PCM is sending the correct voltage and the PCM is good)

5. If that is good, turn ignition switch off

6. Next, check resistance of the IAC circuit

7. Measure the resistance between to two electrical terminals on the IAC valve.

8. Resistance should be between 6 – 13 ohms.

9. Next check to insure the IAC circuit is not shorted to ground.

10. Measure resistance from one of the IAC valve electrical terminals and the IAC valve body.

11. Resistance should be 10,000 ohms or greater.

12. More then likely if it is very dirty inside with carbon it will measure less then 10,000 ohms.

13. Clean it out real good like Rob mentioned and then measure again.


Just seems like lately a lot of people are having problems with the IAC valves…

 

Sorry guys but I don't know what IAC stands for. I did a search and I don't know how to serach for something that is only 3 letters. Any help? Please.

 

I will go hunt a quick link for ya.

Don't forget basics like fuel, battery, fuses
say a couple Hail Mary's for good luck.

 

Checkout fluctuating idle on page 2

 

IAC is an idle air controller. I controls the air that goes past your throttle plate when you have the flap entirely closed. It's on the passenger side of your intake, its a 2 in by 1in in diameter cylindrical tube that is connected with a wire clip and 2 i wanna say 10mm bolts, not sure on that size. Just pull it off give it a good cleaning with some carb cleaner, a small shot of wd40 and you should be all good again. They go bad in the winter all the time, its not just the lightning, its almost all of fords cars.

 

For future reference: In order to search using only three letters, simply insert an astrisk in the fourth position (i.e. IAC*). BTW IAC stands for Inlet Air Control (I think )

 

Now I have shut it off and it wont turn back over. Any help would be greatly

It's not the IAC. It only effects idle RPM. It won't stop the engine from turning over.

Sorry, there are many things that could be wrong to keep it from turning over: dead battery, starter motor, ignition switch, fuses, etc.

Dan

 

oh wait he's right on that. I missed that part. If you mean it goes through the starting motions but then doesnt fire up, then it still could be iac, but if you turn the key and you get nothing, you have another issue, possibly unrelated. Low battery can cause both of those, ive had that before. But it's gotta be really really dead.

 

It isn't completely dead. It tries to start. I just went out and it did start but a very rough idle so I will try to clean it as soon as I can get some tools. I just hope it helps.

 

could be vacuum leak as well. Normally for bad iacs the idle searches and surges a lot. Your sounding like something else. Check all your hoses.