High-End Built Motor Questions
High-End Built Motor Questions
Researching options for a built motor and had a few questions for some of the folks that have built motors or even those that build the actual motors...tuners perhaps.
I'm currently considering going with the ModMax 5.4 stroker kit and would like to know if the following items may be worth considering:
Knife-edging the crank? Figure this is a great option for a motor that is going to spin to 8-9-10,000rpm but is it worth the cash on a motor that will never see 6,000rpm? I know it's a common thing to do to race motors but how much slinging oil will a 5.4 at 6,000rpm generate? This may be one of those options that sounds cool (and looks good too when I have the crank out on the workbench) but may not be cost-effective.
Windage tray? I remember the Canton windage tray was all the rage a while back and everyone was going to get one but I haven't heard anything about them since. Again, how much slinging oil will it reduce in a relatively slow turning 5.4? The other item that I considered is the fact that in order to get it to work with a stroker crank may involve significantly more time and effort than it's worth. That could be an expensive 5-10 hp...
Thanks in advance,
Dan
I'm currently considering going with the ModMax 5.4 stroker kit and would like to know if the following items may be worth considering:
Knife-edging the crank? Figure this is a great option for a motor that is going to spin to 8-9-10,000rpm but is it worth the cash on a motor that will never see 6,000rpm? I know it's a common thing to do to race motors but how much slinging oil will a 5.4 at 6,000rpm generate? This may be one of those options that sounds cool (and looks good too when I have the crank out on the workbench) but may not be cost-effective.
Windage tray? I remember the Canton windage tray was all the rage a while back and everyone was going to get one but I haven't heard anything about them since. Again, how much slinging oil will it reduce in a relatively slow turning 5.4? The other item that I considered is the fact that in order to get it to work with a stroker crank may involve significantly more time and effort than it's worth. That could be an expensive 5-10 hp...
Thanks in advance,
Dan
Stroker = Great idea 
Knife edge the crank= another good idea and of course it cant hurt.
Windage tray= couldnt hurt, but our engines dont spin anywhere near enough RPM's to take full advantage of the tray
Also, you might want to think about having the crank coated. Most of the import tuners running serious RPM's and great ET's rec getting it done. The coating makes the crank slippery and therfore helps in the same way a windage tray will.(coating info not on hand at the moment, but I'll look it up and get back to you)
Hope that helped Dan,
AY

Knife edge the crank= another good idea and of course it cant hurt.
Windage tray= couldnt hurt, but our engines dont spin anywhere near enough RPM's to take full advantage of the tray
Also, you might want to think about having the crank coated. Most of the import tuners running serious RPM's and great ET's rec getting it done. The coating makes the crank slippery and therfore helps in the same way a windage tray will.(coating info not on hand at the moment, but I'll look it up and get back to you)
Hope that helped Dan,
AY
You da man...AY!
Actually, it appears that the ModMax cranks are already knife-edged on the trailing edge (missed this the first time) - from the Fox Lake website...
"Our ModMax Ultra Billet crank includes all of the features of the Pro Billet with the addition of 4 lightening holes in the rod throws instead of 2 as well as completely CNC profiled counterweights. The counterweights get extra attention with a radiused leading edge and a knifed trailing edge to reduce windage in the crankcase. These cranks are also rated to 1500 plus horsepower and are only made on a CUSTOM basis which typically takes 10 to 12 weeks."
The tray may not be worth what it costs to get it to work...have to check into that one some more.
A lot of the import guys are using coatings by Swain Technology. They've got coatings for the skirts of the pistons, the top of the piston, crank, connecting rods and the valvetrain. I've already looked into having the pistons done both on the skirts and on the top...$42.00/each.
Actually, it appears that the ModMax cranks are already knife-edged on the trailing edge (missed this the first time) - from the Fox Lake website...
"Our ModMax Ultra Billet crank includes all of the features of the Pro Billet with the addition of 4 lightening holes in the rod throws instead of 2 as well as completely CNC profiled counterweights. The counterweights get extra attention with a radiused leading edge and a knifed trailing edge to reduce windage in the crankcase. These cranks are also rated to 1500 plus horsepower and are only made on a CUSTOM basis which typically takes 10 to 12 weeks."
The tray may not be worth what it costs to get it to work...have to check into that one some more.
A lot of the import guys are using coatings by Swain Technology. They've got coatings for the skirts of the pistons, the top of the piston, crank, connecting rods and the valvetrain. I've already looked into having the pistons done both on the skirts and on the top...$42.00/each.
motor
The 347 in my 67' Mustang had a windage tray and a knife edged crank, the tray I did because, well the motor was apart and it was insurance, the crank I did because I wanted to run the motor over 7,000 and it was recommended and again I considered it insurance. My opinion- I don't build a motor very often so when I do I spend the money to insure it will be around awhile, I think coatings are something that should be used as guys are leaving HP on the table, Viper guys are picking up in the 100hp neighborhood on a coated motor. good luck, Todd
Shawn, Shawn, Shawn...
You should know better than that...I'm determined to have the strongest dyno queen on the left coast. Besides, aren't these motors shot at about 3800 miles???
I've got my shortblock options narrowed down to two builders (one in the midwest and one out east - staying far away from anyone in Canada on your recommendation). I'm looking at a few options for the bottom-end including the ModMax stroker, an aluminum block (not from SHM), Carrillo or Manley rods, CP pistons, coatings for everything and a few other tricks. Don't even ask about the heads...haven't gotten past the fact that they will be CNC'ed by someone, probably Crower Stage 2's, 1mm oversize valves and who knows what else (heard a nasty rumor about a possible 4V option in the works). And the blower has been narrowed down to the KB or a Works 140... As you can see, everything is set in stone for this little project!
How's your little diesel running?
You should know better than that...I'm determined to have the strongest dyno queen on the left coast. Besides, aren't these motors shot at about 3800 miles???
I've got my shortblock options narrowed down to two builders (one in the midwest and one out east - staying far away from anyone in Canada on your recommendation). I'm looking at a few options for the bottom-end including the ModMax stroker, an aluminum block (not from SHM), Carrillo or Manley rods, CP pistons, coatings for everything and a few other tricks. Don't even ask about the heads...haven't gotten past the fact that they will be CNC'ed by someone, probably Crower Stage 2's, 1mm oversize valves and who knows what else (heard a nasty rumor about a possible 4V option in the works). And the blower has been narrowed down to the KB or a Works 140... As you can see, everything is set in stone for this little project!
How's your little diesel running?
Last edited by Struck in AZ; Dec 17, 2003 at 01:39 AM.



