I'm having a hard time finding any performace parts for my Lightning (for a decent price)

A mod valve is $100 but a factory tech valve body is around $400 (Cnd $) and the core has to be returned. - Benifits/drawbacks of either are?



- 170 deg stat and a 2# lower pully, worth it? (without a chip)

- tr6's with this combo, worth it ? necessary?

I would consider just a chip but with only 91 oct, a friends Lightning pings with no mods/just a superships power programmer (unless fuel from a specific location is used)

The programmer did make a big difference but the chance of pinging is not so good.

Thanks for any info/help

 

I didn't have to return my valve body for a core. I paid around $220 from Sal. I wouldn't even waste my time with a line mod. The other mods listed in your sig would be ok without a chip. Also, I bet the Power Programmer is why your friends truck is pinging. Too much timing.

 

FTVB Own one! there is no substitute.

Over the years in different cars (including a late 90s ford) I've put in "shift kits" produced by major companies. And this FTVB is by far heads and tails above the rest. It is 100% *right* at every gear change. And at every throttle input as well.

Oh and BTW: When at the track and mine shifts. I get a jump on others that say they have a line mod. I litterally lunge fwd compared to them on the shifts. 1-2 and 2-3 is where I gain the most on guys running 6# pullies.

Rich

 

Shift Kits, Line Mod Valves and Accumulators

By Gregg Evans
Developer of the Factory Tech Accumulator Shift Kit

I see a lot of questions about Shift Kits, Line Modulator Boost Valves and Accumulators. As a transmission repairman I'd like to share my thoughts on the subject.

What most people are looking for in transmission strategy is a quicker, firmer shift, or more technically a shorter shift duration. Shift duration is how long it takes for a shift to occur, or the amount of time that the clutches are slipping. A shorter shift duration has a performance feel, and generally is better for the clutches, because the wear on the plates happens during this "slip". Shortening duration also will reduce heat, which is responsible for most automatic transmission failures. The way to reduce shift duration is to increase the engagement pressure of fluid to the clutch during the shift.

One way to raise Line Pressure is to use a mechanical shift kit, or more simply, a set of valves and springs in the accumulator valve body. Since the accumulator is hydraulically "downstream" of the EPC, a mechanical shift kit does not interrupt any lubrication failsafes and since it is using a mechanical pressure boost (through the Line Pressure Boost Valve) it does not place any additional load on the pump. I have seen 3 basic variations of mechanical shift kits, a "Line Pressure Mod Valve" ($89-$99), a "3 springs and a valve (about $150, basically a Line Mod Valve and 3 additional springs) and a full accumulator ($200, a Line mod valve, springs, lower control springs and lower control valves installed into a new or rebuilt accumulator valve body). I'm not going to be coy about it, I designed, build and indirectly sell the Factory Tech/PSP Accumulator Shift Kit, so instead of trying to act neutral (I'm not) I'll tell you why I think the kit I build is a better kit, a better value and better for your transmission.

First, an accumulator is a fairly straightforward assembly. In the 4R100, there are 3 shift bores, and 1 line pressure/throttle bore. The 3 shift bores are identical, and different springs are set in them to control the reaction of the accumulator piston to hydraulic pressure, this reaction translates into shift duration on the shift controlled by that bore. All of the bores are fed pressure by the Line Modulator Boost Valve, which reacts to the Throttle Valve, controlling this circuit boosts line pressure into all of the shift bores. If you change the Line Modulator Boost Valve and raise line pressure throughout the body, the individual shift bores are no longer "tuned" properly and the reaction in the shift bores will be out of calibration for the elevated line pressure. For this reason, you need to recalibrate the shift bores, both in the top circuit (above the accumulator piston) and below (the 321-310 circuit). Also, in the 2001 model Lightings, I have found that increased pressure in the lower circuits caused the 321 valves to "side load" or bind up due to asymmetric application of hydraulic pressure during the shift, resulting in a "bang shift". A Line Mod valve fails to address these conditions. My last (but not least) concern with a Line Mod valve is cost, I don't think you get much bang for the buck if you pay $89 for a Line Modulator Boost Valve. I've been very upfront about this, I use a part very similar to this as part of the Factory Tech/PSP Accumulator Shift Kit. In may ways, I think the part I use is higher quality, my valve and sleeve are made from stainless steel and most of the other ones I see have aluminum sleeves. This can cause problems in the long run too, as the steel valve cycles though an aluminum sleeve, the sleeve wears faster than the valve and after a time this results in pressure loss and sloppy shifts, the condition the part is designed to correct. Also, of all the parts I have personally seen, only the one I use has an O-Ring seal to prevent pressure leaking out of the circuit. For all this, my cost for the valve is about $20, if you just want a boost valve, email me, I'll sell you one for $30, shipping included, and in a year I'll still be here if you need a new transmission, my Monster Box goes for $1500.

The second popular option is the 3 springs and a valve shift kits. Using this type of kit recalibrates the upper circuits to the elevated line pressure, but still ignores the side loading of the lower control valves. The kit of this type that I have seen also uses an aluminum sleeve/steel valve, and again, the cost is high, for the extra $50 give or take, you get 3 springs and more detailed instructions.

For the Factory Tech Accumulator Shift Kit, I start with a new Accumulator Valve body, Genuine Ford Part (F81Z-7G422-AA, List Price at your dealer is $150 +/-), I add a Line Modulator Boost Valve (about $20), recalibrate the upper circuit with different springs ($12) and upgrade the lower circuit springs and use a valve designed to cycle more freely in the bore to prevent both side loading and binding. (I won't tell you the price, a guy has to have a few secrets). Well, to tell the truth, I don't pay list on the other parts either, but between the kits and my custom transmission work I buy a lot of parts and I get some good discounts (buy 50 accumulators at a time and you can get the same discount, prolly). My point is, I've heard from quite few people who bought the other kits and asked themselves (and me) "Is this it?, I paid $XXXX for this?" I honestly hope that no-one ever got one of my kits and asked that question. The fact is, the final retail price of the Factory Tech/PSP Shift Kit is less than the list price of the components that go into it, and my distributor makes a profit, too.
And finally, I have my reputation. Read the "mods" on bulletin boards to see who my customers are, do a search for Factory Tech, and after you see who they are, E-Mail them and ask how they like the kit. As of this writing, I've sold or given away (for the first year I made them for people I work and didn't even charge them above what I paid for parts) about 500 accumulators and exactly one customer has let me know he wasn't satisfied, and in the end I even satisfied him. (he had installation issues, after the part was in right, he loved it). When the '01 Lightings first came out, the side loading issues on the lower circuit became evident, and I replaced 2 units after I redesigned the accumulator. Other than these cases, I know of NO customers who have had complaints about my parts. Just consider this, if you buy XXX parts, and have a problem, what's the chance of you getting the home number of the guy who designed it? If you bought it used off of E-Bay? If you have one of my parts and you have a problem, I'll fix it. That means if it needs to be replaced, you get a new one, no matter where you got it, it means that if you have a question about installation or performance that you can't get a good answer to, you can get in touch with me and if I need to talk to you to make it clear, I'll send you my home number, or call you. There is no-one selling parts for Lightnings that has built more 4R100s than me, I know this box and I stand behind what I build, because I want to sell you that Monster Box when you want it, when you're ready for it, not when you grenade the tranny and need it.
Thanks,

Gregg Evans
GBEvans@peoplepc.com

 

The valve is $21.60 retail, direct from the manufacturer. Google search for sonnax, you'll find it.

 

I took out my Sonnax valve and stock accumulator to put in a FT accumulator. I don't regret it and am thoroughly happy with the results. A line mod will work-probably won't destroy your trans-and will shift great(compared to stock)
An FT accumulator will shift like you won't believe even compared to a line mod, very drivable under normal(?) driving conditions, and will make you swallow your tongue at WOT-PLUS-Greg stands behind his product 100%.
He is not God and you can buy what you want or your wallet allows, and noone can criticize you for doing that. I just think if you can put the money together for the FT you will be happier with the results.
I was. And there's not as much work involved.

Don

 

Here comes the Flames
, but I have the line mod valve and have driven in a FTVB L and they BOTH hit hard.
I have 30,000 miles on my tranny. 25,000 of them with just the line mod. MANY 1/4 mile passes. MANY long road trips and MANY hard miles. Also a 10.76 pass and about 800 Flywheel torque (thats 1600 lbs to the tranny) all with a stock tranny and a line valve mod and my tranny stills drives fine.

Do I think the FTVB is good. Yep. But to say the line mod is JUNK is just nieve. My L is living proof of that.


Again, not flaming Gregs work, just stating my experience.


VINNIE

 

when it comes to performance auto parts, you get what you pay for.

there is a reason why the FT VB cost more than a line mod.
Gregg doesn't like them and he deisgned the damn tranny, that's gotta tell you something.

Don't cheap out on parts, they will only break!
Or like the line mod, break your trany

 

2 years and when I put it in drive. Guess what ? It goes.

Pretty F'in FAST too.

BTW- I am not Knocking Gregs stuff at all. I mean I do have a monster box kit (including the FTVB) in my basement just in case.

But so far I have not needed it.


VINNIE

 

If that logic was true I guess the $89 valve is better than the $21.60 valve then. BTW if you want it to shift harder still, they have the larger diameter valve for about $25. I'm fairly certain from the pictures I've seen that these are the same valves Gregg uses.

And for the record, Gregg works at the plant as a transmission repairman, he didn't design the trans as people keep stating. That's not a knock on Gregg at all either, my dad worked in the union for 30 years too.

FWIW, a good friend of mine who is a trans engineer at Ford thinks the valve is fine.

 

It boils down to the fact that it's your money, buy what you want. They both perform the required function. Either will work-maybe one to your liking more than the other-just like caged vs uncaged pullies-Densos vs NGKs-Truck Traks vs Rancho style. I don't feel the need to encourage you to buy one because I did. Again buy what suits you. If I never put in a FT accumulator I would have been just as happy with my 25.00 Sonnax line mod kit. But I won't replace the FT accumulator with a Sonnax kit. (and yes, I believe Greg may use some Sonnax components)
And Vinnie does have a point. He makes much more hp than I do and he has had no problem with the LM kit. In my low hp case, I like the FT acc. more. I am only one person among many L owners. Just buy something. Anything is better than stock.

 

Thanks for the info and suggestions

Another question. Should pluggs be changed with a 2#/no chip (tr6's)? Will the 2# increase chances of pinging with only 91 oct? Will a 170 deg. tstat help?

Sorry for all of the questions but with snow and no chance of driving the L till spring I'm doing some planning

Thanks

 

Vinnie, you dynoed at 700 pounds of torque at the wheels on a factory transmission??? And you ran a 10 on a factory trans? That is amazing! Do you have a converter too?
Shane

 

Shane,

I have a P.I. 3 -disc T.C..

So far so good.

I goota tell ya though. After seeing that 11.41 f-350 with a BTS trans in it . It has got me thinking.

Like they always say, "Competition is good and the consumer usually wins"

VINNIE

 

I would put Tr6's in with a chip gapped @ .38
It will increase the chance of pinging
I would go with a 160 to help make the pinging no issue