I am changing plugs and installing Denso IT22 and i need to know what if any anti size compound i should use to be sure there is no problem when installing the new plugs.
Thanks in advance for any input
BLWNSVT:

 

NO anti-sieze, put them in dry. You can use a little WD-40 on the threads for the initial installation if you like.

 

Why do you say no anti-seize? I know Ford recommends it, but I have heard it before from some about not using anti-seize. Does it cause a problem?

 

Ford does NOT recommend anti-seize. They have a special service message for techs that specifically says to not use it. Anti-seize makes the plugs loosen quicker and promotes the shooting plug syndrome.

 

Just for the record
I've used anti-seize on mine both plug changes so far.

Shh, don't tell Sal, he's gonna yell at me

I have heard what Sal is saying many times so there must
be something to it. No Anti-seize next time for me.























Instead I'm using Loc Tite

 

Thanks Sal the plugs go in tomorrow with a little w-d on the threads with the small amount of threads in the 01 heads i dont want the shooting plug problem. I want to know how tight should the plugs be, its real hard to get a torque wrench on the back two on each side so what do u recomend.
Thanks for any and all advice in advance.
BLWNSVT:rocker:

 

I installed IT-22 a year ago - didn't put any anti-seize on. I did put a couple of drops of light oil on the threads. Denso has a site you can checck for their torque recommendation - as I recall it is to; install snug, then one-sixteenth of a turn more. THats what I did. No problems with my plugs.

 

NEVER use anti seize on sparkplugs! WOW, dont even think aboubt it.

 

Wurk

I think of it this way
Waaaaaaaaaaaaay more L's have popped the factory plugs,
than aftermarket ones, and for the factory ones that haven't spit,
when the poor owner goes to change them many 10K's later, it seems many have found them seized they have become one with the head. And we all know it's hard to find good head
so I went with the anti-seize both times so far, MANY do, they just don't talk about it. Me I talk about anything, I have no boundrys.

Two years of 14-16 lbs of boost and tons of nitrous time,
and there doing just fine

I think our prob is very simple,
not enough, and too soft of a spark plug thread,
I also think it's extremly obvious that Ford not only screwed up
by the lack of threads, but they also didn't properly tighten them to begin with. Thats why so many new ones spit, and that also why most of us find at least 2 or 3 loose ones when we 1st change them, (I found 3, one was less than hand tight)
There is no other answer, except they were never tight to begin with. Since they never tightened them to begin with, I FEEL
it's that vibration and movement that destroys the little threads we have, hence they spit.

So to sum it up I truly don't think anti seize will loosing a plug,
However I do believe it will protect the threads from seizing.
I think the Serv Message was just them reaching for an answer when they already knew dam well what the problem was.

 

Rob, I'm with you on this argument . My NGKBR7EF's have been in now 41,200 miles. I used this specific brand as I believe it is the best--that I know of. I put just a little on the second and up threads because you do not want any antisieze on the electrode(s). And as RF said, run them down 'snug' by hand and then 1/16th of a turn more.

My theory is is that the factory puts too much torque on the OEM plug/head threads when they are initially installed on some engines. Now the head threads('soft' aluminum vs steel plug threads) have been distorted/weakened and the plug(s) vibrates its way loose.

Dan

 

JET-LUBE's MOLY PETROLATUM anti-seize is manufac-tured to conform to the requirements of Military Specification
MIL-T-83483B. The intended use of this compound is to pre-vent seizing during assembly or disassembly of aircraft engine
spark plugs and threaded fasteners and fittings at temperatures below 800°F. MOLY PETROLATUM is the ideal anti-seize thread compound where parts are engaged with components fabricated from similar or dissimilar metals. It is also intended to provide corrosion protection to the metal surfaces below 800°F. Since this compound contains MoS 2 which at higher tem-perature conditions (1000°F and above) it may induce corro-sion of fastener or contiguous materials. Accordingly, its use at higher temperatures should be avoided. For high temperature applications, NUCLEAR NONMETALLIC should be utilized.
Care shall be taken against the application of too heavy a coat-ing to the components. A thin coating is all that is required to prevent seizing. In the case of blind holes, the application of an excessive amount of the compound may prevent proper seat-ing of the components. Under low temperature conditions this compound hardens and is difficult to apply. It should be kept at room temperature for twenty-four to forty-eight hours prior to use.

Due to the high evaporation rate of the petrolatum constituent, this compound is not suitable for use on the threaded or unthreaded components of such equipment as optical instru-ments where the vapors may adversely effect associated com-ponents, e.g., lenses, prisms and other optical elements.
· Lead Free
· Lowers friction, reduces wrench torque.
· Permits reuse of fittings, saves stud, bolt and nut replace-ment.
· Meets MIL-PRF-83483C (USAF)
· Water resistant.
· National Stock Number 8030-00-087-8630 (1 lb. cans)

Sizes: 1 lb, 5 lb
Service Rating: -65°F (-54°C) to 800°F (427°C) my bad

 

I don't know what you just said wurk_truk,
but there were some really cool words in it

I use a "very small amount" and like Dan said I only put it on the last couple of threads. None go near the beginning threads or the tips, I then wipe it clean just leaving a tad in the inner threads.

 

I haven't had my Lightning long enough yet to learn all there is to know about it but it was my impression it has aluminum heads. Two rules with spark plugs and aluminum heads I learned a long time ago on my aluminum heard Chevy 427 are; never change plug anytime except on a cold engine; and always use antisieze compound on the threads.

 

SVTARKANSAS,

You hit the nail on the head. Steel and aluminum are quite different. COLD is the only way to change pugs on aluminum heads, some light lube or anti-seize allows for rust, dust and dirt particles, and light corrosion to be less of a factor in thread distortion.

Ford does not recommend anti-seize, costs more during intial assembly, time and parts, and allows the dealer's mechanics to strip them while changing and charge you for a new head after warranty. In other words, " .. it's about the money.."

Those that wash their engines and don't get an immediate dry out around the plug area will most likely get some corrosion started. Has ayone seen corroded metal that un-corrodes itself?
In fact it will continue with every exposure to any kind of corrosive element, water and high humidity, etc.

Take it for what it is worth. I use a very small amount of anti-seize in most all aluminum threaded parts.

Just my .02 cents. Others will argue this point, but I will do what experience has taught me. To each his own heaven or hell !

 

Rob
I think what wurk said was that at a high temp the sulfur in the moly compound will disassociate and be free to mix with moisture and then become sulphuric acid or something like that.

So....at a high temp it becomes corrosive.
Dale