I think I might have missed something a long time ago when I bought my chip from JDM. Do they normally remove the rev limiter? I knew the shift points are usually pushed back but I didn't know they just 86ed the rev limiter... I was at the track tonight and had the baby in 1st so that i didn't strain the trany with a 2nd gear burn out... I looked down as I let go of the break and the tach jumped and virtually bent itself over the tach needle at the 6k mark!!!! How badly could i have F*ed up my engine in about 1/4 of a sec over the recomended 5200-5300.

That and my truck seems to have taken a dump. As I lunched on my second run of the night the tech guy said I spilled something all over the track. I jumped under the hood and looked for everything. all the fluid levels were perfect( oil, coolant main and IC, tranny) no leaks that I could find. I couldn't really check the master cylinder at the track because the lighting was really bad. That and I stopped so I guess that wasn't it. Stearing is fine. Any other fluids that I might have missed? Blinker Fluid? I heard from one of my friends that some cars can purge fluids if they are over filled and put in the right circustances. Since it had been a full semester since i've raced there have been plenty of fluid refills.

 

If Im not mistaken here? A rev limiter only cuts ignition at a certian rpm. Which means that during a quick rev, you could over rev the motor. Mine is set at about 5,700 and on one burnout I did, I saw 6,000+ just as I took my foot off the brake! (had a little pucker factor going for a second there)

On the fluid thing, You have'nt by chance washed the motor down? Maybe some water got trapped in a valley or something?

WOT

 

I doubt Jim nixed the rev limiter. In most cases its moved to 56-5800 rpm since the shift points are raised with most chips. Your factory tach is a good refference point but in no way accurate so the 6000 you saw was more likely less. When the trck hits the rev limiter you will know it, since it falls flat on its face. Don't know what boost your running but if very high you do rish lifting the heads and blowing antifreeze out the motor when over reving the engine.

 

The rev limiter works great if you aren't spinning tires. Once you spin tires the tach moves too quick and you bang the limiter.

 

Don't sweat it Spade$ as long as it's still running fine.
Mine WOT shifts 24/7 at 6K, Been shifting @ 5700 to 6000 for almost two years now ON A STOCK MOTOR + TRANNY with not a single problem.
I call it stretching my rods
And on MANY ocassions I have absolutely dead pinned the tach.

As for the fluid, funny you said that, the day I had a 3 plug melt down at the track (last year), I absolutely dusted a Z06 off the line, then before the 1/8 mile mark, I all of a sudden went sideways and immediatly started detonating, smoke started pouring out of the hood, I shut it off and coasted down the track.

Restarted it drove into the pits, openned the hood to see and smell antifreeze EVERYWHERE, and I mean EVERYWHERE
Thought it was over. Waited a while restarted it, it seemed to be fine, so fine that STUPID ME even attempted another run
(thats when I realized I def melted plugs)

Went home got new plugs from Sal and spent hours and hours going over every square inch of that drivetrain to find NOTHING,
well except a bunch of melted TR6's. Put Denso IT-22's in, went back to the track, ran my best ever ET, and it's been better and faster ET's ever since. I never found out where the antifreeze came from ??? I never had to add any ??? I since then added a good 100HP in Mods, and I've been racing it hard for two seasons since without any unexpected surprises.

The only thing we came up with was maybe someone put the antifreeze down, I hit it, spun out sideways, and drenched the motor in someone elses antifreeze ???? As for the plugs, that was a filter starting to clog, THAT I KNOW

Just keep an eye on it a while, but you should be fine

 

Were you icing your intake? I almost got flagged at Atco last summer for 'leaking fluid' I didn't take the bag of ice off early enough and there was some residual water that trickled down after I did my burnout.

Oh yeah...blinker fluid usually doesn't leak as bad as bulkhead remover.

Sorry..had to. Any former Squid can relate.

 

I also have a JDM chip.

In the summer months, it would shift at 5300 to 5400 rpm like clockwork. Now, it is about 30 degrees outside (Farenheit) and my truck shifts at 5700+ rpm.

Am I crazy or is my chip malfunctioning?

 

My first suggestion is you're doing the burnout in the wrong gear. Generally you want to do the burnout in the highest non-overdrive gear. Now to the rev limit. The quickest way to snap a rod in ANY engine is rpm. Compressive loading (like boost) doesn't really tax a rod all that much, but rpm kills them. Remember that for every rpm of crank speed, the rod must come to a complete stop and change directions twice! This is the reason to use the very best rod bolts money can buy.

Happy Hunting

 

That would put (1st gear ratio / 3rd gear ratio) times more stress on the entire drive train. I do this from advice from... I can't remember who... but he had to replace his tranny so I took it to heart to let the tires heat up for longer at a slower rate.


The guy at the track asked if i ran antifreeze in my engine. Because it the "goo" was really slick. My engine also smelled a little like anti. I dont think i busted a plug. At least on the left side because my A/F didn't indicate anything durring the run or the ride home.



PS thank you all for your help. I dont feel the need to tare apart my engine now and blue print everthing... damn I kinda wanted an excuse. Xmas is comming up. anyone love me enough for an aftermarket long block.... I love you long time


and rob ironicly... I was racing a ZO6

 

K just went out on a back road and did 5 hard launches with staging etc... not a damn thing leaked. All fluids are as they were etc etc... wydopnthrtl you might have been right that water was stuck in the valley if there is such a thing I dont know of where it could.

 

Did you check your block heater plug on your block? I know with these motors when they are subject to a lot of strain the plug some times pops out a bit at an angle and spews antifreeze every where for a few seconds. When the pressure form the strain of what ever went wrong stops it stops spewwing out the antifreeze. When this happens you can look at the block heater located on the left side of the motor on the block and see it is not exactly flush to the block any more. The slight agnle is not enough to cause antifreeze to leak out when the motor is not in any added pressure due to a roblem.

Just a thought but it has happend.