Thanks again for all the info Rob. Which now brings up a couple more questions for ya. With the 16 degrees of timing are you running race gas? So do you think that a 50shot would give me 5 tenths? I know its usually 10 hps for 1 tenth, but I would think that it would take more power for a heavy truck to gain a tenth. So what size shot does it take to drop the full second for you? So if you run off the bottle you run 12.8's? Again thanks for the replies. With your 4# lower how much boost are you making? Since the modded apten Im making 16#s with the 6# lower and stock upper.

 

Sorry Tim I will Edit my first post.

 

Thanks yysenhimer

WOW on the 250 Shot,
Man that must have been a Blast

I know I go off alot about stupid things, hope I didn't offend you,
or anyone else for that matter. Just having a real schitty day all around over here.

I agree on the low RPM Blast, I didn't understand that either about the Zex, especially at first. But let me back up, the last Big Block Chevelle I had I was running a 150 shot dry system (see sometimes I believe in dry) and it was micro switch activated.
I hated it, couldn't WOT it without it totally going out of control on the spray. So I ended up having to spring for the 80 bucks or so
and buy a B+M Handle for my rachet shifter with a button build in it. This way I could go WOT it, then sray, and if it started getting totally out of control I would let off the button then spray again.
Of course I was leaving a lot of HP behind having to wait to spray, then having to get off and on the Juice button trying to keep it between the lines. The other BB Chevelle was also Micro Switch, but not as much HP, diff gears, better suspension, and less traction Probs. With the Motorcycle I had it hooked up to my horn button, ""hehehehehehe" and of course couldn't sray til I was rolling fast enough, "and at WOT", so I do agree thats when it should come on. That was a wet system, I had to mount a full size 12v SW Electric Fuel Pump under the seat, find space for
two solenoids, squeeze in a plate betwwen the carbs + Manifold, and figure out where to put a 10lb Bottle

I guess what I've been trying to say is I did alot of home work before buying the Juice for the L, because the S/C changes everything. I kept coming back to Zex and for lots of reasons,
e-mails I was getting, research, ease of installtion, looks, price, track record, etc... But what made me a walking commercial afterwards was somehow these guys got it figured out where I can WOT it from a dead stop, dam near lift the rear wheels off the ground, (yes rear wheels, see vid below) still cut consistant as hell 1.6 60ft's, and run 12.0's w/65HP and now 11.8 w/75HP on a L with basically no fancy Mods at all.
Somehow these guys got it figured for me, and it seems to work very well "for me".

But for the record, I agree that if I was running big HP Nitrous,
I would want RPM or Window switch, or some kind of Management System. I'd prob also be spraying through each Injector.

 

WOW, there's more Grammer and Spelling errors in my reply,
than a Spelling-B in the White House, HEHEHEHEHEHE


rACeRs,

""ALL"" my Gasoline only runs were made with a simple
JLP Cool Air, JLP Diablo, Accu-Fab T/B, Multi Spark, + 4Lb Lower.
(I drive 24/7 w/6lbs on the streets, but I only race with 4)
Well up to this last 11.81 that is, HEHEHEHEHE (I got ballzy)

I have backed up 12.7's + 12.8's running that tune ON PUMP GAS.
I should also note, all those runs were ran using "whats now" my current Nitrous Program (lower timing), 16 Degrees. At the time that was as aggressive of a tune I had. I then had a 14degree and a 16 degree program. Like I said later we found out the juice ran best at 16 degrees so Johnny switched the 16 as my Nitrous Racing Program, and made me a new 18 degree for all gasoline,
I HAVE NO ET'S USING THAT 18 DEGREE PROGRAM YET,
even know I'm driving on it many many months now.
Having too much fun racing with the juice to go back to NO Juice,
but obviously with 6lbs of pulley and more timing, I'll be quicker now than those 12.7's + 12.8's.

My 1st 12, (no Accu-Fab or Multi Spark installed yet)
on F-1's, not a great 60ft


Now on Hoosiers, thats actually the worse 60 I ever had on hoosiers, track wasn't hooking that day.

Other 12.8 + 12.7 slips in my Gallery


AS for how much will it take off
My 1st ever attempt with juice netted me immediate back to back identicle 12.0's. I was running the setup shown above (4lbs).
Up to that point I had'nt ran any 12.7's yet, so using 65HP of Juice Jets took off a true 8/10th's and took me within 6/100th's of a sec from my 1st 11

I'm 66, gator is #61 (Ya he whooped my a$$, ALL DAY LONG TOO)

Thats us in the 12.0 Vid shown in my sig

 

Then I did many months of Street Spraying and trips to my Local track but still couldn't get my 1st 11, I was hot lapping @ 12.3's at my local track, it doesn't hook to great and I always had my little guy with me. I had to drive there on slicks, tech in immediatly with him in the car, buy him candy and sit his a$$ in the stands next to someone who didn't look llike a kid napper, and then jump on the staging line and run it red hot, waving to him the whole time, HEHEHEHEHEHEHE
(not a good way to go racing) I would make 2 passes and leave immediatly, so I never even got a spot in the pits, or cooled down.
But remeber this is THE BEST THING ABOUT JUICE. You can run it on the parkway forever, (even in the hot summer) show up red hot, and run it red hot, back to back even, and you will run consistant, and only be off maybe 2/10th's. Do that WITHOUT juice and you'll be off a good 1/2 second.

SO anyway of course being 6/100th's of a sec away, I decided it was time to push the tune a little more.
So I went to JDM Day added my quick change 2lb upper and switched to 75HP Nitrous Jets.


The Rest is History

I should note Yes I ran Race fuel at Cecil (2) 12.0's (no weight reduction) and I did also ran Racing Fuel at Eng Town,
and this was also the first time I did weight reduction.
These are the only 2 times I ever ran Race Fuel so far.

 

I'll just add a few more comments here. For you guys without a window switch, what happens if the truck spins the tire at the starting line, then you hit a tight spot on the track and it instantly hooks and lugs the motor...BOOM! The big nitrous sneeze. If you're lucky the blower won't go completely through the hood, just put a nice big dent in it. And with a nitrous backfire you probably just burnt a piston or two, and if the piston is burned the exhaust valve is probably burned also....all to save $50.

The same thing happened to our T/S camaro last year, except we're using over 600hp worth of nitrous. Some cloud cover came in and tightened up the starting line a bit. The car hooked real hard (we like 2-3% tire slip down the track) and the motor stumbled. Basically blew the entire top end off the motor (565), and destoryed the one piece carbon fibre front clip. There went my '03 cobra fund.

If you're having trouble seeing the problem with spraying below 3k or so, lets reason through this. Whats the timing like, for example, at 1600rpm vs. 5600rpm? What about nitrous/fuel volume in relation to air/fuel volume at those rpms? Now consider the much faster burn rate of nitrous/fuel compared to air/fuel. Connect the dots...see a problem yet?

I don't care what ZEX or APC or Auto Zone or Honda Tuning magazine says, if you run any nitrous system you need a window switch. This is coming from someone who has probably blown up more parts than anyone here...i've learned it all the hard way.

**edit** forgot one more point...
If you use nitrous long enough, you're going to get a stuck solenoid. It happens no matter which brand. So then what? Without a window switch you can count on a massive meltdown.

 

gotta go with RSColeman here... Ive seen LOTS of wild nitrous engine pops... and Ive seen a REALLY nice lightning crap it self all over the track becouse it jumped off the ground on a hard launch, spun the motor WAY up over the limit, and the nitrous stage hit... put it like this, there was soo much damage, the block sounded like a party favor when you rocked it from side to side.

 

As a nitrous layman, I would appreciate it if you would connect the dots for me. I can think of plenty of reasons not to spray nitrous below a certain RPM but I would like to know the _real_ reason.

The engine over-revs, hits the nitrous stage, bounces off the rev limiter and then what (besides engine parts all over the track)?

-Don

 

"Window switch, I don't need no stinkin' window switch!"

 

Ever seen a 14-71 grenade? It makes that picture look like a walk in the park. It doesn't take nitrous to have a spectacular engine failure, it just makes it easier

-Don

 

can someone explain what an actual nitrious backfire is? I mean i know the effect, i've been curious about the cause. Is it too much pressurized air in the engine so it comes back out the intake fuel and all?

 

Sure hit me where it hurts
You guys know I've had over a Dozen BB Chevelle's
DAM thats a sad picture seeing that Beauty Burn
THAT SUCKS


OK OK I guess maybe I could do a little winter reading
and look this over before next season.

But I still think with a little shot it's not needed.