What is the correct fuel hose from AutoMeter to connect the isolator to the fuel rail? Thanks

 

Are these the correct accessories to install my Fuel Pressure Gauge?

ATM-3280
For use with fuel rails, 1/16 in. NPT male to 1/8 in. female, brass, electrical gauge adapter

This fuel rail adapter features a 1/16 in. NPT male to a 1/8 in. female end that's designed to adapt an electrical gauge to a fuel rail.



ATM-3227
A tubing kit for Auto Meter gauges.

3 ft., -4 AN braided stainless steel line with 3/16 in. I.D. fittings for mechanical pressure gauges

This 3 ft. stainless steel braided line kit is ideal for use with all Auto meter or Auto gage, pressure gauges when the security of steel braided line is a must. Comes with all fittings.

 

if you are using the electronic guage, you just need that little adapter. You remove the schrader valve on the fuel rail and insert that adapter with the sending unit connected to it. Use teflon compound, not tape.

If you are using the mechanical guage, it's recommended to mount it outside the cabin. Not sure what you will need.

 

Screw the ATM-3280 into the fuel rail. Into that you put a 1/8 male NPT X AN -4 male 90 degree adapter. Buy the appropriate length AN -4, female both ends, hose to go from the adapter to the Isolator.

You can use a 1/8" -4 teflon lined brake hose from Aeroquip, Earls or Russel, more flexible, various lengths, inexpensive.

However, my experience with the mechanical gauge Isolators has not been good, about a 50% problem/failure rate.

 

I purchased the electric fuel gauge and it says in the instruction not to mount the sender unit to the fuel rail as it will cause the sender to fail eventially. It has to do with the vibrations from the engine. It says to mount it on the firewall then run a line to the valve on the fuel rail which is what I will be doing.

Thanks

 

TampaBlack

Checking in to see if you got the fuel pressure gauge hooked up and working. Do you have any pictures and or parts that you can inform myself and others. Thanks
John

 

Tampa Black,
I just installed an Auto Meter electric fuel pressure guage a couple of weeks ago and ran into the same problem. I ended up going to Amazon Hose and Rubber in downtown Tampa, kind of near Centro Ybor. They made me a custom adapter to fit the sending unit to the fuel rail. I know it says not to mount the sender on the rail, I don't think the L motor vibrates enough to make the sender go bad. I don't know, I may be wrong about that and find out here in the near future that I have to buy a new sender.

 

I have already installed the gauge inside the truck, but still have to connect the sender to the fuel rail. I did purchase a 2" section of steel braided line and some fittings for thid. I will not be attaching the sender to the fuel rail, but using braided line to make the connection. I will be doing the final install when I remove my 99 manifold and mid plate and switch it out with a painted 01 manifold and mid plate with my polished blower. I will also be installing a billet catch can system I have been piecing together slowly. Will have this done by the end of the month and post pics then. Happy Holidays!

 

Hey Tampa, Did you get any pictures taken yet? Im going to be tackling this project this weekend, and needed a visual.
Thanks John

 

I've had my FP sendor mounted on my fuel rail for well over a year now about 10k miles. No ploblems out of it yet.

 

I fitted mine a while back on the fuel rail. I thought the instructions suggested remote fitting of the sender in high rpm high vibration applications.
Did not think that was the case with these trucks.

 

my instructions didn't say anything about putting a remote line.

As fas as i'm concerned, just more lines to be run under the hood which i don't need, and more connections running fuel with a potential to leak.

I would say on an engine that rarely sees over 3500 rpm on a daily driver ........there would be as much, if not more vibration on the firewall. Maybe an import that races out to 5k or so might be a problem.