I was about to purchase some Rancho-style traction bars but realized that I am also planning on upgrading the rear suspension in a few months. Since all of the Rancho-based bars require drilling the frame, should I wait until I finish my suspension first? I'm worried that if I drill holes for the traction bars now, the holes won't line up when I eventually swap out my suspension to the Hotchkis setup.

Here are some pics (thanks Superfords) that show the differences between the stock and Hotchkis leaf springs. It seems the difference in bow arc (thus relocating the axle location) might be enough to affect where the traction bars mount to the frame.





What do you guys think? Should the holes line up before and after, or should I not risk it and just wait until the Hotchkis is in? I don't want to be pounding my fists when the holes are 2 mm off, so maybe I'm answering my own question. ;i BTW, I have 2" shackles now, if that makes a difference.

 

I know a few people that had to change it with a Shackle and hanger drop, im not to sure about the Leaf drop though...

 

I would personally get it to where you want it before doing the bars. A different situation, but I dropped mine and added slapper bars the same day. Glad I dropped the thing first and let it settle a little before putting the bars on...and that was without having to drill holes like you do. I'd get it to the correct height before drilling any holes personally.......

 

I wouldn't think that you would have any issues if you decided to drop the truck later via new leaf springs. If you note in the picture the axle will obviously be in the same horizontal position on both sets of springs, so swapping out the springs will not move the bars horizontally. If you go ahead and mount the bars to the frame, then they will just pivot up or down with the movement of the rear end. The only issues you will ever have with the rancho style bars are clearance with the stock exhaust when using a drop kit. If you are running aftermarket, then there will be no other concerns.

 

I would get your suspension done first. It's easier to modify traction bars than modifying your suspension.

 

Thanks for the replies. Some of the responses I got on NLOC are making me wonder if the Rancho's are even the best setup for a dropped L (ground clearance) so now I have time to think about all of that.

 

I think the rancho's are the best going. Most transfer. Also, you shouldn't need to wait till you drop it, as its no diff than when your truck squats on a launch...but it might be a good idea to wait.

 

I still have a set of fiberglass leafs that i have yet to put on. Maybe i should put the leafs on and wait to see if they break or droop (some people have had problems) before installing my LFP rancho bars? I have also had serious thoughts about this issue and would appreciate more information on this.
Thanks,
Jon

 

I installed Hotchkis leaf springs (the new 243lb rate) and the LFP bars at the same time. After driving around and adjusting the QA-1's every which way I decided I didn't like the ride so the Hotchkis springs came off (they're going up for sale, buts that's another forum) and reinstalled the stock springs with one leaf removed. Put my 2 inch lowering shackles back on and I'm lower in the back than ever, Spike Engineering's measurement technique puts mine at 16 and a half inches. When I put the Hotckis rear springs on I used the stock shackles. The height was at 17 inches. The LFP bars can be lined up on the rear mount. It takes a little fiddling but the spring/bar mount plate is adjustable enough to get alignment. It just takes some time and some finesse. You don't need to wait to install the bars BMWBig6 until you have all your suspension parts gathered together, you can do it now.

 

Oh, so are you saying I can drill the holes in the frame and secure the front end of the bars, and there's enough "slop" in the rear bracket mounting to accommodate any change from one suspension to the next?

 

Yes, that's what I have found from personal experience. The springs will have to locate the rear axle in the same location as the OEM springs. There is enough adjustability in the U-bolts and bracket to accomodate minor changes in the spring pack. Hotchkis has 2 leaves while the OEM springs have at least 6 leaves. It is not simple and quick to do but is not difficult either. After the bars have been installed and it is time to change springs remove the bars to change the springs and when installing the rear bracket for the bars/U-bolts fit the bar back in postion on both brackets and attach the U-bolts. Carefully run the nuts up on the U-bolts while checking the thru bolt holding the bar in place to the rear bracket. Tighten the U-bolts front and back keeping the thru bolt as free as possible until very snug on the U-bolt nuts. You will only be able to reach 3 of the 4 U-bolt nuts as the bar will block the forward inner nut. When very snug remove the bar and snug up the fourth nut and torque as per instructions. It's a process of constantly checking that rear thru bolt for the bar to keep it as free as possible thereby keeping alignment between the bar and the bracket.