Okay,
After hearing from just about everyone i talk to about my L, I'm told that i need new plugs....Can you guys suggest new plugs for the mods in my sig. Also, i plan on adding nitrous and a built lower in the spring (both are def. happening by march). Oh and probably JDM cams too!! (if that makes a difference)

And if anyone has a link or thread they know of for a plug change-how to that would be greatly appreciated....

 

I recommend Denso IT-22's or NGK BRE7's

here's some great info on Plugs
http://home.midsouth.rr.com/lightnin...parkplugs.html

 

thanks rob...

another question.....what will new plugs actually do? I mean i obviously know what plugs "do", but what will the denso's or ngk's do that my stock don't, and what will happen if i don't replace them???

 

All of the basic's are intensified when it comes to a Supercharged Motor, especially a Modular Lightning Motor.

I've been a motor head and hot rodder for close to 30yrs and in the past, if I heard pinging I either retarded the timing,
put a higher octane in, or checked the plugs for color and switched to a colder plug. This is all true on a Lightning too, but
with one MAJOR EXCEPTION. If you don't hear it RIGHT AWAY,
and even if you do, under the wrong conditions (WOT) you can have as little as seconds before the Motor goes BOOM.
Many have, more will

The thing is this.
Everything is based on Air, Fuel, Timing, Cylinder pressure, and maybe the most important, -->"cylinder temp"
Simple facts,
You put an aftermarket filter on, you get more air
You get more air, the computer or your tuner gives you more gas.
You take in more gas + air, you gain HP and Power
Now of course the factory computer can adjust A LITTLE.
But now add Boost with an aftermarket pulley, what happens ?
You now do two things, you over spin the Eaton, and create more heat, plus you send A LOT more air into the Motor.
The more air you take in, the more fuel you need, when it's cold air, the more timing you need.
Thats why with a KB, so much air passes the MAF (sensor),
that the factory MAF max's out and cant adjust properly anymore.
This is also why the early gen 2's switch to the later years
"Bigger MAF".

Now you got all this extra cylinder pressure, cylinder temp,
and power, but have the original factory plugs that ARE NOT
cold enough to dissipate the heat and get it out of the cylinder
before trouble starts. The higher the timing, the higher the boost,
the more air you take in, the more all this becomes deadly if you don't adjust for it.

To be safe this is what you want
A colder Plug, GO 2 ZONES COLDER (it's more forgiven)
High Octane and high octane only as daily fuel
And a nice rich A/F on your tune (chip)
The leaner you are, yes the faster you are,
BUT now you create hotter cylinder temps and have a much better chance to DETONATE.
DETONATION='s BOOM

Many will say use TR-6's, and many do with great success
they're 1 zone colder than stock. If you go for the less expensive plugs like that, I would go colder.
The main other choice is Denso's, they are extremly expensive
compared to the others, BUT they are also known for excellent idle, excellent power, and no mis-fires, I prefer them.
You can use IT-20's, but with IT-22's your even more colder and that allows a little safety buffer on your tune

Ok I need another and everyone has heard enough I'm sure

 

I thought most of the tuners recommend Denso IT20s or NGK TR-6s for a 4 lb. pulley?

 

They do
And they work great in most cases, but if you can run a colder plug and not give up performance it's better.
You can get the same and better performance from 22's
and have the benefit and safety of a colder plug

Up to the last pass at Eng Town, ALL my previous passes were with 4lbs and IT-22's. Two full seasons and the performance and power has been flawless with the colder IT-22 plug.
Plus I got a little extra insurance

 

Rob,

What should the gap be on the 22s?

Danny

 

Again you'll get a million differant answers,
But I have mine set at .038 - .040

 

thanks rob....you've been a HUGE help