Isnt the Rancho setup the same as the JLP one? Whats the difference?

 

The Rancho style describes the JLP, LFP and JDM setups. Rancho makes a Torque Arm setup for the Gen 1s that worked great (and was all there was at the time). But they don't make the brackets to fit the Gen 2s, so various vendors make their own, and either use Rancho brand bars, or copies of them. My setup is a mix match of LPF and JLP parts.

 

THANKS EVERYONE,
excellent info here, would still LOVE some pictures
of Cal Tracs or the upper 4 link style

STAN YOU GOT MAIL


Sal I'm very interested in your opinion, you run juice
you know the truck traks, you know me and my set up...

This problem has only surfaced since I started running
12.3's, 2's, 0's and now 11.81

Never a problem with the TT's when I was running 12.7's + 8's

I use 28x10 Hoosiers C07 on AR 16x 8 rims
I cut 1.6 everytime so far with the juice

What is my problem ???

And what should I do to fix it ???

 

Ill take you a pic iof them installed when i get out of school

 

right back at ya!!!!

 

Rob,
I had the Truck Trax on my L. They worked fine until, I put a 2400rpm stall converter in 'er. Then she did EXACTLY what yours is doing. Due to the Truck Trax inability to transfer weight further up the frame, the rear end begins to load and unload on hard launch, thus causing the rear of the truck to appear as if it's bouncing up and down.

I installed a set of the JLP lift bars(JDM, LFP, JLP are all very similar in their design and function). They worked fantastic! They serve their purpose WELL. I could not get over how smoothly and effortlessly the truck launched with the bars. My best 60' to date is a 1.662 in route to a 7.491 1/8 mi. This is with a 2-4 drop, and in 70* air(can't wait to launch 'er in the 50's).

The only "downside" to these bars is that they run under the tailpipes, which causes the pipes to tap the bars when traveling over bumps or uneven pavement. I don't know about you, but I can live with that . Hope this helps!

Later,
Rob

 

Rob here is a pic of my JLP bars:

 

Does anyone know if the lift bars will work with an aftermarket exaust? I will be running an REM cat back. I am looking to replace my Caltracs cause I am sick of adjusting them.

 

Yes, they'll work. I'm running Long Tubes, Hi-flows and Bassani cat-back with the JLP bars. All of the aftermarket cat-backs for L's that I'm aware of exit at the same spot. As I mentioned earlier, because the bars pass directly under the tailpipes, they do make contact on bumpy or uneven road surfaces. It can get a little annoying, but so goes racing. Hope this helps.

Later,
Rob

 

damn!!!!
I wish the underside of my truck looked like that!!!!
You ever drive that thing!?!?

 

DAM HANK GOT A NICE A$$

OK OK You know what I mean

Greet feedback info picture's and opinions EVERYONE
THANK YOU VERY MUCH and please keep it coming
My decision is Def between the Lift bars and upper 4 link.
Many have total sucess with the long bars, so thats the logical move.
But I really like the idea of the upper Link and from the people I've heard from, it's all good.

Any 10 second beast's using that set up ?
ANY PICTURES ?

I got some time, I aint got the cash right this second anyway.
Plus like the Sticky post and my former opinions have shown,
it's blown motor season AGAIN and I'm gonna tune down
2lbs, and switch to the 16 degree program for the upcoming months,
so no more passes RIGHT NOW

But I will open next season with a blast I Hope..........

 

Rob, are you having an actual problem with the TTs, or just concerned with what you saw in the video? If they are working, I'd leave them be. If not, then I can understand looking for a different setup. Like I said, I ran 11.20s on TTs, with no problems.

As for the upper link bars, stay away from them. Do a search on my past posts if you want to know why, I went into great detail about the all the different setups in a past thread.

 

No Sal I am NOT having any problems with the truck tracks
other than the funky feeling inside when it raises up like that.
I've cut 1.8's on F-1's with them, ""Tons of 1.9's on F-1's""
and 1.6 every time at Cecil + Eng Town on the Hoosiers.
A couple of 1.7 on Hoosiers at our Home track but it was a bad
hooking day for everyone that day, so I don't mention it.
So basically the worse 60 ever on TT's and Hoosiers is 1.7
but on a prepped track it's extremly consistant 1.6's EVERY TIME.

So as far as my 60ft time, I HAVE NO COMPLAINTS AT ALL,
I love my TT's, and I love my 60's with them.
I'm just wonder if that lifting is dangerous,
AM I GONNA BREAK SOMETHING ?
Or is it just the characteristics of the Design, and I shouldn't worry ?

Thanks for all your input Sal

 

I certainly don't want to claim something I am not positive on, but it appears, when you get into the high hp/torque ranges the TT's are less effective and can cause this raising effect? I stress it appears that way. In reading your last two posts Rob, and speaking with Johnny.

Mine are great for the street pushing my power (496/562), but that is without slicks and on Nitto 555R's and we all know how easily the Nitto's can light up.

I will seriously consider the JLP 58" traction bars before my first race day in the new year.

This was a great post, excellent information and it is great to see a tuner giving his input!

D-Day

 

I'm gonna try these "poor mans" setup first ($59) Hellwigs

no plans to run on slicks, or die-hard every weekend track action. Just trying to prevent a little axle wrap