I'vo got an Autotap and I can certainly run some tests. Like I mentioned in the other post, TeamSLS's before and after measurements could have been influenced by any number of factors outside of his control...doubt all ten variables were exactly the same when those measurements were taken.

 

i know alot of the fbody guys(prior to 01, because post 01 models dont have egr) are blocking off their egrs. i guess its worth a shot to see if it helps. but then again most of the fbody guys are street racers

 

http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt12.asp

Hello everyone I'm having the same problems with the EGR Or Sensor But the Above link is very helpful in finding this valve and sensor

 

I've done a LOT of reading on this, and it really seems there's no real benefit, especially if you have you chip retuned for the lack of recirculated exhaust gases. Mine is going to stay blocked, and eventually be removed completely. Too much clutter on the drivers side...


on another note:

I've had mine blocked for a few days, which it finally took on the third day to light up the SES light. I'm wondering, why would that have come on, if everything is physically connected, but just blocked at the base of the EGR valve?

I know KB ZILLA has not had his SES light come on since completely removing the tube from the manifold. The only difference I can see is that he looped a rubber tube where the two smaller metal tubes branched off into...

 

yep, I looped one of the rubber lines between the two ports, and I plugged the line that went to the top of the EGR.

Still no codes for me yet

Someone else mentioned this also.......This is considered one of the "Free Mods" in the F-body world. My 95 Z28 has been EGR-less for 5 years now.

I am not saying there will be a performance improvement or not.....I dont care if me and Easterisland are the only two that ever do this mod......but I definatly like it gone

 

Hey guys-

Since I'm being mentioned in some posts, I'll chime in.

First of all, at least 50% of the technical posts on this board are hardly anything but seat of the pants dyno's.

I have personally built my truck to 650+ hp. At least 800 with spray. Does that make me a leader in the field? No.

Does it add credibility? I would think.

I will never post about gains (or losses) without having viable, albeit not lab, test results. Could be from the dyno, the laptop/EASE, the laser pyrometer or guages.

Like the EGR post, the NX Nter-cooler post, the vacuum canister post etc.

Point being, I try to provide useful, fact based information that most readers would appreciate as being accumulated in a dynamic atmosphere, as opposed to a controlled situation.

Besides (and most importantly) I want to know myself. Is it worth it? In the case of the EGR, it is just to get rid of the fugly pipe...regardless of performance gain, IMHO

I could really care less about 1 degree on the thermometer, or the extra 2% of relative humidity increase between a reading taken 45 minutes apart, but if you do, so be it.

Out of spite, here it goes:

Both "tests" are with a 10 minute warm-up.

Coolant temp 178, according to laptop.

laser thermo reading at the same exact place as last time, from the same exact distance, and the same exact side, after a 3.5 mile drive (the same one I make 2-4 times per day,everyday):

107 degrees at the plenum/spacer junction.
outside temp: 46 (taken from my weather station)
Relative humidity: 62% (taken from my weather station)

Remember, 107 degrees.

let truck cool 30 min total, 15 with H2O pump, fan and exchanger fans on. (Ahhh two batteries)

Reattached EGR pipe.

Attached EASE/laptop, coolant temp at 128 degrees. confirmed truck below operating temp so as not to skew "test"

10 min warm-up. coolant temp, 176

Drove 3.5 miles, the same exact trip, pushin' it were I usually do. No red lights, light traffic.

laser thermo reading at the same exact place as last time, from the same exact distance, and the same exact side, after a 3.5 mile drive:

167 degrees.

outside temp: 47 (taken from my weather station)
Relative humidity: 64% (taken from my weather station)
both readings taken within 1 minute of "lift off"

BTW, both measurements taken from opposite the EGR side.

Note related mods that may affect readings on another truck:
1. Shaker hood
2. Ducted engine cooling (from ex-fog lights)
3. C&L intake pipe
4. JDM Spacer
5. heat retardent/reflective adhesive barrier on underside of intake plenum and around Sals' air box.

Personally, detonation is not a concern with 55lb injectors, 255's, 38 psi at the regulator and a KB boost-a-pump (set at 25). Not to mention a one sided chip retarded for N2O and 2x cooler plugs gapped to 34.

BTW, has anyone ever touched said pipe after idling the truck for 20 minutes? Burn the f**k out of ya'. Sounds like a heat soak situation waiting to happen.

May have to "test" that too.

Soooo, what does this mean?

Do what the f**k you want, I'm keeping mine off.

-Andy


PS: I'm am NOT refuting what the EGR does, when it does it, or how long it's open...these are indeed "facts"

 

That's what I prety much thought. My original post with the 'license plate blockoff' was only a quick How-to, never made any claims.

Nice work TeamSLS. I too want to keep temps down and eventually clean all the EGR crud out of the engine bay... Too much garbage getting in the way of a plug change or quick plug check.

Thanks for the awesome test data!

 

thanks for your time teamSLS

I am with you, mine is staying off.