Big brake topic - hubs?
Big brake topic - hubs?
Hello,
I just got the AP/Stillen brake kit and I've got a question about the hubs. To me, it just looks like they took a factory hub/rotor and machined off the rotor portion. Looking at SVT-KY's pictorial Brembo install, it looks like Brembo did the same thing, but they left a bit more of the "hat" portion on their hub.
Is there some Ford application that they are sourcing this part from or am I on the button.
Any thoughts on this? With the hat in place, the wheel only has abot 1/4" of "snout" to locate onto, about 1/2 of what it had before. Has anyone with the big brake kits noticed that the inner bore of the wheel has gotten beat up? Am I being paranoid here?
Thanks, Randy
I just got the AP/Stillen brake kit and I've got a question about the hubs. To me, it just looks like they took a factory hub/rotor and machined off the rotor portion. Looking at SVT-KY's pictorial Brembo install, it looks like Brembo did the same thing, but they left a bit more of the "hat" portion on their hub.
Is there some Ford application that they are sourcing this part from or am I on the button.
Any thoughts on this? With the hat in place, the wheel only has abot 1/4" of "snout" to locate onto, about 1/2 of what it had before. Has anyone with the big brake kits noticed that the inner bore of the wheel has gotten beat up? Am I being paranoid here?
Thanks, Randy
thought the same thing about the hub…I too would like to know where they source it from. One thing I do know is your front track will be about ½ wider with the new hubs.
I will take a peek at my wheels to see what you are talking about.
What pads did you get with the kit, because if you got those piece of ***** Padgid pads you might want to order different pads. Stillen told me they were switching over to a Hawk pad so you may have those.
I will take a peek at my wheels to see what you are talking about.
What pads did you get with the kit, because if you got those piece of ***** Padgid pads you might want to order different pads. Stillen told me they were switching over to a Hawk pad so you may have those.
Hey Ayton,
I got the Pagids. Are they that bad? Whatever it is, I don't plan on buying the replacement parts from them. Brake-Pros quoted me $350/ea for the rotors and $389/set for pads.
Coleman racing will do a custom rotor, same size for about $190/ea and I've seen Hawk and Ferodo pads for about half of what Brake-Pros wants.
Randy
I got the Pagids. Are they that bad? Whatever it is, I don't plan on buying the replacement parts from them. Brake-Pros quoted me $350/ea for the rotors and $389/set for pads.
Coleman racing will do a custom rotor, same size for about $190/ea and I've seen Hawk and Ferodo pads for about half of what Brake-Pros wants.
Randy
Ayrton,
Sorry about typo'ing your name on that last post. Do you know how thick the pads were on our kit when they were new? My kit is used. I'm currently surfing the web to see what's out there.
Looks like it's (HB-109)available from Hawk in .710",.785",.910" and 1.12" thick.
Thanks, Randy
Sorry about typo'ing your name on that last post. Do you know how thick the pads were on our kit when they were new? My kit is used. I'm currently surfing the web to see what's out there.
Looks like it's (HB-109)available from Hawk in .710",.785",.910" and 1.12" thick.
Thanks, Randy
Yes the Padgids are that bad…horrible dust.
If you have not installed the kit yet, I would try and get Stillen to swap out the pads.
The rotors that come in the Stillen kit are not AP rotors and as you found out can get custom rotors for under $200 each. I pay about $160 per rotor locally here… http://www.essexparts.com/
I have a set of Hawk HPS pads ready to go in, but my truck is “under construction” at the moment. I have no idea on the pad thickness, I just asked for pads that fit the CP5555 caliper.
If you have not installed the kit yet, I would try and get Stillen to swap out the pads.
The rotors that come in the Stillen kit are not AP rotors and as you found out can get custom rotors for under $200 each. I pay about $160 per rotor locally here… http://www.essexparts.com/
I have a set of Hawk HPS pads ready to go in, but my truck is “under construction” at the moment. I have no idea on the pad thickness, I just asked for pads that fit the CP5555 caliper.
When I get home I will take a few pics of the stock
hub to compare with the Brembo shots. The Brembo
is a "floating" rotor in that it is not a permanent part
of the hub assembly. That makes changing rotors
even as easy as changing pads ...
hub to compare with the Brembo shots. The Brembo
is a "floating" rotor in that it is not a permanent part
of the hub assembly. That makes changing rotors
even as easy as changing pads ...
Look to see if you can find any kind of part number on it and I will do the same. I wonder if the hubs come from the same place…
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I think they all do.....the closest junkyard!!
Seriously, I have looked on the ones I have and there are no part numbers and no markings. Plus it looks like cast iron, I cannot see any parting lines from a forging. Maybe spin-cast?
Randy
Seriously, I have looked on the ones I have and there are no part numbers and no markings. Plus it looks like cast iron, I cannot see any parting lines from a forging. Maybe spin-cast?
Randy
Hi Silver-Bolt,
My impression of the 4x4 hubs from the drawings is that the bearings are inside the knuckle, so the hub looks like a FWD hub. I think it presses into a set of bearings that are in the knuckle, then the half-shaft slides through the hub and it all gets locked down with a big nut.
Anyone have a 4x4 that can confirm that? Personally, I think it's B.S that they charge nearly $4k for a set of not-too-complex parts and then they get away with a modified stock hub that forces you to extend the track width of the front and leave less a less than ideal amount of hub "snout" for proper wheel mounting.
Now off my soap box....
Randy
My impression of the 4x4 hubs from the drawings is that the bearings are inside the knuckle, so the hub looks like a FWD hub. I think it presses into a set of bearings that are in the knuckle, then the half-shaft slides through the hub and it all gets locked down with a big nut.
Anyone have a 4x4 that can confirm that? Personally, I think it's B.S that they charge nearly $4k for a set of not-too-complex parts and then they get away with a modified stock hub that forces you to extend the track width of the front and leave less a less than ideal amount of hub "snout" for proper wheel mounting.
Now off my soap box....
Randy
Can't speak for all the suppliers out there, but 'yes' you are correct in that most of the hubs supplied are in fact factory rotors with the rotor removed. They may not tell you this but I will, I'm not ashamed of it.
The stock rotor is turned to remove the rotor surface and the remaining hub is then plated to keep it pretty for you. The hats are slipped over them and yes, they do increase track wiidth by .25" per side. Not that most of you would ever notice the .25" but it is simply what happens. BUT, the advantage is, and often needed, that the increae in this also nets the increase needed to clear the caliper to wheel spoke issue. Many of the calipers are of course much larger than what you have and there is simply no way to fit this behind the wheel.
Ok, so why not a new hub? Well who is up for paying upwards of $200 each for them?? You CANNOT remove the material from the face of the existing part to compensate for this! Too thin. So we have a delema here... I for one won't make up 20 hubs in hopes of selling a kit, and I doubt the others will either.
What to do? Get a wheel with a different offset if you want it back, or maybe have them milled down if there is material. Don't hit the calipers however...!
Best, honest info I can give everyone.
PS, and NO, they are not junkyard parts, new FORD ones!
The stock rotor is turned to remove the rotor surface and the remaining hub is then plated to keep it pretty for you. The hats are slipped over them and yes, they do increase track wiidth by .25" per side. Not that most of you would ever notice the .25" but it is simply what happens. BUT, the advantage is, and often needed, that the increae in this also nets the increase needed to clear the caliper to wheel spoke issue. Many of the calipers are of course much larger than what you have and there is simply no way to fit this behind the wheel.
Ok, so why not a new hub? Well who is up for paying upwards of $200 each for them?? You CANNOT remove the material from the face of the existing part to compensate for this! Too thin. So we have a delema here... I for one won't make up 20 hubs in hopes of selling a kit, and I doubt the others will either.
What to do? Get a wheel with a different offset if you want it back, or maybe have them milled down if there is material. Don't hit the calipers however...!
Best, honest info I can give everyone.
PS, and NO, they are not junkyard parts, new FORD ones!


