The fastest and usually easiest in the long run is a little lubricant, heat, and LEFT handed drill bit.
I used to try all those other things, but it was ultimately quicker this way.

 

Torque to yield man, torque to yield. -Mat-

 

Be carefull with drill bits and easy outs; I have seen a buch broken off in bolts before

Best bet would be take it to a pro.

 

Ouch! Sounds like you F'ed up the idler frame. You better make sure you get the idler to sit right when you bolt it back on...

 

Once upon a time, I had a walkabout boat, which I used to go saltwater fishing, anyway on spring morning I decided to do a tune-up.
The boat had been sitting all winter long (Texas winter, yea right) well one spark plug had rusted right on to the head. When trying to remove it it broke off and left the sleeve with the threads still in the head. I said no problema, and used a ¼ inch e-z out; well I broke the e-z out flush with the spark plug thread wall.
Well I will drill it, normal drills would just dance on the harden steel, so I went out and got a diamond tip drill, played with it for hours on end, with no results!
Finally I gave in, removed the head, and took it to an EDM (Electronic Discharged Machining) shop. They had it out in an hour, charged me about $ 60.00 the threads were not even scarred, reinstalled the head, and went fishing! Shortly there after the boat blew up, but that’s another story!

 

I had to remove the idler frame from the truck. The bolt was cracked off inside the frame. (as in you couldn't touch it with your finger or a socket...) What we tried removing was part of the frame. (where the stock idler sat) It is a little messed up, but its ok, the idler doesn’t go back on there anymore. The idler is now moved up closer to the blower. (so all I have to do is have the bolt pulled and re tapped if needed) Then I will be able to put the new bolt in I was trying to. The idler won't spin on it like I said its just for more support.
The idler kit is out of the truck and at a machine shop today. They are going to back it out and tap it if needed. I should then be able to put a bolt back in. Now I am waiting on that from the machine shop, and a replacement bolt from Mark over at LFP.
Thanks for all the help, Shane

 

yep, lesson learned. I am waiting to hear back from the machine shop. I am 90% sure they will be able to get it out and I will be able to put a different bolt in there when I get one. What if they can't what happens? I dont want to drive with just the lower blower bolts on the new idler. Where can I oder a new idler kit at if needed? I dont think I will have to get one, but how much would that be? Thanks, Shane

 

Shane... Just for the record, EVERYONE has done something similar in their past... unless of course they are young and just haven't had a similar situation happen to them. We all have these self inflicted headaches. Trick is trying to keep them at a minimum by reading the directions, asking questions beforehand, etc.. Still, things do happen... the unexpected.. As you get older you even anticipate that you will have a problem and decide to let someone else do the job someone experienced/ better qualified or better set-up for unexpected problems. It is great to do it yorself though! Of course then there is the time issue. Sometimes it's just less expensive to have someone else do it as your time is valuable. With this in mind, relax and get this unexpected event straightened out. That shop will get the thing squared away and a new bolt will be mailed to you quickly and all will just go back together without problem. My guess is also that you will not over torque the new bolt. Anyway, as I mentioned earlier things like this happen to all of us and I mean ALL of us.
Ever hear of the expression "shi_ happens"