Comp Cams vacuum tank in..
Comp Cams vacuum tank in..
Hey guys-
After putting in stage 3 cams, I had experianced a change (for the worse) in braking...big shocker.
Instead of a pump, I went the vacuum tank route. Works kick ***.
The install was a peice of cake, not even 30 min, takes up the room my battery left behind, and looks cool.
The tank holds the maximum vacuum (about 22 generated at start-up) until the brakes are used via a one-way check valve. Every time you decelerate (vacuum created), the tank is "recharged" for the next brake application...very slick and very simple.
I put a vacuum guage on mine that allows me to "see" what to expect when I next apply the brakes...and to monitor the setup.
Installs like this:
Remove brake booster feed line from brake booster....leave check valve.
install 90 degree vacuum fitting in said line and route 3/8 brake hose to canister check valve.
install 3/8 fitting on tank (supplied) and route another 3/8 line back to check valve on brake booster.
install guage (or supplied plug) to canister.
install hose clamps all around (maybe overkill..rather not have a line come off) and start 'er up.
Major improvement, cheaply (about $70) for those with wild cams.
After putting in stage 3 cams, I had experianced a change (for the worse) in braking...big shocker.
Instead of a pump, I went the vacuum tank route. Works kick ***.
The install was a peice of cake, not even 30 min, takes up the room my battery left behind, and looks cool.
The tank holds the maximum vacuum (about 22 generated at start-up) until the brakes are used via a one-way check valve. Every time you decelerate (vacuum created), the tank is "recharged" for the next brake application...very slick and very simple.
I put a vacuum guage on mine that allows me to "see" what to expect when I next apply the brakes...and to monitor the setup.
Installs like this:
Remove brake booster feed line from brake booster....leave check valve.
install 90 degree vacuum fitting in said line and route 3/8 brake hose to canister check valve.
install 3/8 fitting on tank (supplied) and route another 3/8 line back to check valve on brake booster.
install guage (or supplied plug) to canister.
install hose clamps all around (maybe overkill..rather not have a line come off) and start 'er up.
Major improvement, cheaply (about $70) for those with wild cams.
That sounds like a great option, I am(was)about to install a vacuum pump to solve the same braking problems. I am however willing to send the pump back and go your route
Let us know more about it.
Let us know more about it.
Don's Bolt- a vacuum pump isn't really the best idea for the street. They don't start pulling vacuum until about 3k rpms, and you'll have a catch can full of oil to dump everytime you take a drive. Not to mention having to rebuild the pump frequently. Which pump did you buy?
this is EXACTLY what I was questioning Ford Engineers design about
A month or so ago I posted that when you go from full throttle to full brake there is a lapse in braking power for about 1-2 seconds, so that the vacuum to operate the booster would be generated.
Everyone said NO that doesn't happen.
Well here is some proof, that you lose boost power when you are boosting and not in a vacuum.
I betcha the new gen 3 lightning will have a canister of this type!
A month or so ago I posted that when you go from full throttle to full brake there is a lapse in braking power for about 1-2 seconds, so that the vacuum to operate the booster would be generated.
Everyone said NO that doesn't happen.
Well here is some proof, that you lose boost power when you are boosting and not in a vacuum.
I betcha the new gen 3 lightning will have a canister of this type!
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Originally posted by rscoleman
Don's Bolt- a vacuum pump isn't really the best idea for the street. They don't start pulling vacuum until about 3k rpms, and you'll have a catch can full of oil to dump everytime you take a drive. Not to mention having to rebuild the pump frequently. Which pump did you buy?
Don's Bolt- a vacuum pump isn't really the best idea for the street. They don't start pulling vacuum until about 3k rpms, and you'll have a catch can full of oil to dump everytime you take a drive. Not to mention having to rebuild the pump frequently. Which pump did you buy?
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...s/Accessories/
2nd down on the left
hey guys-
For whatever reason, I can't figure out how to post pics.
I do have pics of everything I've done though...if someone wants to enlighten me on how to do it.
the Comp Cams are from JL...he refers to them as stage 3, so thats all I can tell you--the boxes are long gone.
here is the Comp Cams # on the canister: 1-24
Autometer Phantom #5784...0-30 inches
to route to battery location and back: Gates 3/8 reinforced fuel line hose/11ft (provides extra)
Don/everyone...the brake difference is significant. My brakes were mushy at best under hard braking as I always push her on the street.
Now, it's all good.
-Andy
For whatever reason, I can't figure out how to post pics.
I do have pics of everything I've done though...if someone wants to enlighten me on how to do it.
the Comp Cams are from JL...he refers to them as stage 3, so thats all I can tell you--the boxes are long gone.
here is the Comp Cams # on the canister: 1-24
Autometer Phantom #5784...0-30 inches
to route to battery location and back: Gates 3/8 reinforced fuel line hose/11ft (provides extra)
Don/everyone...the brake difference is significant. My brakes were mushy at best under hard braking as I always push her on the street.
Now, it's all good.
-Andy
Andy,
You need to host the pictures online somewhere and then link to them using the 'IMG' tags in the Post Reply menu...
You can e-mail them to me at dandkmcguire@***.net and I can post them if you'd like.
You need to host the pictures online somewhere and then link to them using the 'IMG' tags in the Post Reply menu...
You can e-mail them to me at dandkmcguire@***.net and I can post them if you'd like.



