? about 03 Lightnings
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From: Waco (Baylor)/ Houston, Tx
? about 03 Lightnings
Hey yall...I'm mike and I'm new here and a proud owner of a brand new 03 red SVT lightning. I traded in my 01 SS camaro for it, and am pretty new to not only ford and lightnings, but also forced induction. I must admit it kinda scares me! I am used to seeing LS1 camaros with >5lbs of boost blow up, and I hear the slightest amount of boost will significantly reduce the life of the engine (at least on an LS1...)....
that being said...why is the L different, or is it? are these trucks durable in the long term...even the guys running 2# or 4#'s? how much boost are these beasts good for, both with the stock eaton, and in general? I realize the key to keeping an engine from going *boom* is enough fuel, but hell even stock Lightnings can blow if the fuel pump is malfunctioning!
just wanted to get a little feedback (just cause I'm new and am interested in the interworkings and potential of these trucks) and also to introduce myself.
peace!
-Mike
that being said...why is the L different, or is it? are these trucks durable in the long term...even the guys running 2# or 4#'s? how much boost are these beasts good for, both with the stock eaton, and in general? I realize the key to keeping an engine from going *boom* is enough fuel, but hell even stock Lightnings can blow if the fuel pump is malfunctioning!
just wanted to get a little feedback (just cause I'm new and am interested in the interworkings and potential of these trucks) and also to introduce myself.
peace!
-Mike
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From: Waco (Baylor)/ Houston, Tx
also, about breakin...I'm at 490 miles now...the first 300 miles I drove it like a poon, barely accellerated, changed rpms alot, drove on highway alot. after that I kinda let her rip, but nothing too exciting...but at about 420 miles I ran her a couple times. now that I'm at 500, should I go change the oil and put in mobil 1 synthetic? what weight oil do yall suggest for me? I live in central texas, so it's not particularly cold 
-Mike
-Mike
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From: Marietta,Ga.
Congrats on yur new truck--and best color!
Personally, I changed original break in oil at 1000 miles. Wanted to get all metal particles out ASAP. Switched to Mobil 1 then. I agree with the way you've driving to break in,but others here will disagree. I would still be a little conservative in driving habits until that first 1000 mile oil change! Unless ALL your driving is very short trips, you can go 4k between oil changes with Mobil 1! Our engines are designed to handle boost,but our rods are not the best. At least you have new 8 thread heads. Follow the forums to see about mods. Best value are computer reflash/chip,filter kit,and pulley. Be very careful if you're concerned about maintaining warranty. Good Luck--enjoy your truck!
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From: South Florida
Welcome to the board!
I did my first oil change at 3500 and switched to Mobil 1 5W-30. As far as our engine durability is concerned, Jake was correct when he said that we have 8 spark plug threads as opposed to 4. There are also some who say the '03 block is stronger than earlier years, but I don't know if this is completely true. In any case, I personally feel that running over a #6 pulley on the stock block is asking for trouble, but some have had no problems. A lot of it depends on how your chip is tuned. Good luck, be safe, and have fun
I did my first oil change at 3500 and switched to Mobil 1 5W-30. As far as our engine durability is concerned, Jake was correct when he said that we have 8 spark plug threads as opposed to 4. There are also some who say the '03 block is stronger than earlier years, but I don't know if this is completely true. In any case, I personally feel that running over a #6 pulley on the stock block is asking for trouble, but some have had no problems. A lot of it depends on how your chip is tuned. Good luck, be safe, and have fun
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From: Huntington Beach/CA
Dumped the factory oil at 300 miles
Then changed to regular 5W30 Valvoline.
Dumped that at 900
Changed again at 1500
Final change at 2500 and went synthetic.
Then changed to regular 5W30 Valvoline.
Dumped that at 900
Changed again at 1500
Final change at 2500 and went synthetic.
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From: Paradise
Welcome, always great to have a Chevy convert (like myself). The L is an awesome vehicle, not only stock, but from it's potential, too.
Re the oil, I changed mine to syn at 500 miles and got the lecture of a life time from not one, but many L owners and Ford racing fanatics. Everyone said the same thing, "let everything seal" properly, keep that original. So, being the newbie that I am I quickly drained the new and put in regular 5w 20 oil, not the original stuff mind you I'm not that new.
This question has come up on the board before and if you took a poll, you will find a majority of L owners change the original oil a couple times and at 2000 - 3000 we move to syn.
As far as boost, I am rather crazy, I popped off that eaton at 500 miles and outfitted my L with a KB, 2lb upper and 6lb lower and she is a beast and I am loving every minute of it. Mind you she only has 1500 miles on her now. The comment above is one of the most acurate I have read on this board, boost isn't the primary concern it is the tune, absolutely!!!
Good Luck and congrats on the new purchase!
Dan
Re the oil, I changed mine to syn at 500 miles and got the lecture of a life time from not one, but many L owners and Ford racing fanatics. Everyone said the same thing, "let everything seal" properly, keep that original. So, being the newbie that I am I quickly drained the new and put in regular 5w 20 oil, not the original stuff mind you I'm not that new.
This question has come up on the board before and if you took a poll, you will find a majority of L owners change the original oil a couple times and at 2000 - 3000 we move to syn.
As far as boost, I am rather crazy, I popped off that eaton at 500 miles and outfitted my L with a KB, 2lb upper and 6lb lower and she is a beast and I am loving every minute of it. Mind you she only has 1500 miles on her now. The comment above is one of the most acurate I have read on this board, boost isn't the primary concern it is the tune, absolutely!!!
Good Luck and congrats on the new purchase!
Dan
Last edited by Dan_03Lightning; Aug 25, 2003 at 02:34 PM.
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From: Alabama
Re: Oil
I changed my oil at 500 miles
Changed it again at 2500 miles
Currently have 5300 miles and will change it at 6000
The whole time using Motorcraft 5w20 and Motorcraft filter.
Re: Engine Blocks
This is post copied from N8STRK at SVT Performance.
I changed my oil at 500 miles
Changed it again at 2500 miles
Currently have 5300 miles and will change it at 6000
The whole time using Motorcraft 5w20 and Motorcraft filter.
Re: Engine Blocks
This is post copied from N8STRK at SVT Performance.
I have read posts on the cast versus forged crank issue also. Have yet to see any cast cranks come out of stock factory engines. I decided to abuse my dealership powers and call Ford about this. My main concern is that for 99-03 F-150's all they list is a cast crank. Part# XL3Z-6303-CA, MSRP: $210.33. Got three VIN's together and called my hotline. They used the VIN and engine tag numbers to break down the build sheets on the engines.(something I can do here also but I wanted to see what they came up with.) Crankshafts used for our three builds(one 2000 and two 2003 L's) were part# F75Z-6303-AC forged crankshaft. MSRP: $659.85. This part# is not listed in my catalog. Another interesting thing is the block change. Started out as a F75Z-6010-AF, MSRP: $555.75 in 1999 and went through a couple of changes until 2002(same pricing, around $550.00). But for 2003 the block is a 3L3Z-6010-GA, MSRP: $1212.25.
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From: Paradise
Six spd
Has any one put an end to the block debate? I thought there was the big question of consistency and the fact it didn't exist?
Regardless, unlike the LSI needing major lower end work with any significant power mods our L's have a long way to go before lowers are needed.
It was one of the selling features for me, the fact that we had such a strong engine from the factory and what we could turn them into.
Love it!
Has any one put an end to the block debate? I thought there was the big question of consistency and the fact it didn't exist?
Regardless, unlike the LSI needing major lower end work with any significant power mods our L's have a long way to go before lowers are needed.
It was one of the selling features for me, the fact that we had such a strong engine from the factory and what we could turn them into.
Love it!
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From: Grand Prairie, TX
Hey Dan ,
After reading that last post, I just wanted to touch base with you in reference to the strength of our bottom ends. I have an '02 L, I bought new in April of last year. Since then I have gathered fi****ls of timeslips and spanked a lot of F-body A$$! You seem like a nice guy, so I don't want you running around(especially with that KB) with a false sense of security regarding your bottom end. The '03s may have stronger blocks and more threads in the heads, but they have the same connecting rods the 01s and 02s have. I have FOUR friends that have obliterated their bottom ends due to rod failure. However, ALL FOUR of them were "IN IT TO WIN IT" at or above 125mph in OD in 50* weather. The strain placed on these rods in OD under 12-15psi boost is TOO much(Eaton or otherwise). I keep my L OUT of boost in OD PERIOD! The tune is VERY important, but it simply cannot overcome the HUGE loads placed on the rods at high speeds(I don't care how FAT the A/F is or how CONSERVATIVE the timing is in the program!) I reckon all I'm trying to say here is to be aware. The stock bottom ends in our L's, however strong, HAVE THEIR LIMITS!
Please don't take this post as a lecture, just trying to help a fella L brother out
P.S. I just bought a KB myself; hope to have it on next week. Going w/ 12-13psi, hopefully that'll get me where I want to be.
Take Care,
Rob
,After reading that last post, I just wanted to touch base with you in reference to the strength of our bottom ends. I have an '02 L, I bought new in April of last year. Since then I have gathered fi****ls of timeslips and spanked a lot of F-body A$$! You seem like a nice guy, so I don't want you running around(especially with that KB) with a false sense of security regarding your bottom end. The '03s may have stronger blocks and more threads in the heads, but they have the same connecting rods the 01s and 02s have. I have FOUR friends that have obliterated their bottom ends due to rod failure. However, ALL FOUR of them were "IN IT TO WIN IT" at or above 125mph in OD in 50* weather. The strain placed on these rods in OD under 12-15psi boost is TOO much(Eaton or otherwise). I keep my L OUT of boost in OD PERIOD! The tune is VERY important, but it simply cannot overcome the HUGE loads placed on the rods at high speeds(I don't care how FAT the A/F is or how CONSERVATIVE the timing is in the program!) I reckon all I'm trying to say here is to be aware. The stock bottom ends in our L's, however strong, HAVE THEIR LIMITS!
Please don't take this post as a lecture, just trying to help a fella L brother out
P.S. I just bought a KB myself; hope to have it on next week. Going w/ 12-13psi, hopefully that'll get me where I want to be.
Take Care,
Rob
