Please help--- Roush with 2 inch belltech = no shock travel
Please help--- Roush with 2 inch belltech = no shock travel
Well my suspicions were right--- after the belltech two inch rear shackle along with the Roush supsension there is only but an inch of shock travel !! There is marks on the bumpstops, so that means there is barely enoguh shock travel to the bump but i'm not confortable with that little travel---
So.....
I figure i need new shocks that will work or get some shock extender mounts....
I found very little info on the shock entender mounts except that I found some on this website (at the very bottom), but tried to contact them through email (only form of contact) and thier mailbox is full . http://www.performancesuspension.com/trucklowering.htm
So does anyone know where to get some shock extenders mounts? Or do i need to get some new shocks? If i were forced to get new shocks i would ry to get the qa1 (or wahtever they are called) would those even have enough travel???
Thanks!
So.....
I figure i need new shocks that will work or get some shock extender mounts....
I found very little info on the shock entender mounts except that I found some on this website (at the very bottom), but tried to contact them through email (only form of contact) and thier mailbox is full . http://www.performancesuspension.com/trucklowering.htm
So does anyone know where to get some shock extenders mounts? Or do i need to get some new shocks? If i were forced to get new shocks i would ry to get the qa1 (or wahtever they are called) would those even have enough travel???
Thanks!
Seems to me if you have 1" of travel, shocks are not going to help you. You will still only have 1" of travel with new shocks and that is not enough to let your suspension work the way it was engineered. Bottom line is, the Roush suspension was not designed to be altered.
Originally posted by sixpipes
Seems to me if you have 1" of travel, shocks are not going to help you. You will still only have 1" of travel with new shocks and that is not enough to let your suspension work the way it was engineered. Bottom line is, the Roush suspension was not designed to be altered.
Seems to me if you have 1" of travel, shocks are not going to help you. You will still only have 1" of travel with new shocks and that is not enough to let your suspension work the way it was engineered. Bottom line is, the Roush suspension was not designed to be altered.
Tim-- you are my hero! I looked forever for those things! ---- I was hoping you would post because it seemed like you knew all about suspensions from a previous post I read. Nice site by the way--- i spent an hour reading everything on there and it was very informative and thorough! So ho much is a Ruslow panhard bar ???
What does a Ruslow upper heim joint shock mount does for you ?
What does a Ruslow upper heim joint shock mount does for you ?
Tim - did the shock extenders help out much? I think I may need them on my truck.
The rear shocks do not have equal travel lengths on them. With the 2" drop from the hotchkis leafs, the driver side QA1 has about 4"-5" of shaft travel , were as the passenger side QA1 has closer to 3" travel.
Never really gave it much thought because the rubber O-ring doesn't go up high enough on the passenger shock to reach the heim mount, it's about 1/2" below the heim mount. So it appears the short travel on the passenger side shock is still enough for the suspension.
[edit]Edit to correct incorrect info after I crawled under and checked it out.[/edit]
The rear shocks do not have equal travel lengths on them. With the 2" drop from the hotchkis leafs, the driver side QA1 has about 4"-5" of shaft travel , were as the passenger side QA1 has closer to 3" travel.
Never really gave it much thought because the rubber O-ring doesn't go up high enough on the passenger shock to reach the heim mount, it's about 1/2" below the heim mount. So it appears the short travel on the passenger side shock is still enough for the suspension.
[edit]Edit to correct incorrect info after I crawled under and checked it out.[/edit]
Last edited by captainoblivious; Aug 12, 2003 at 09:26 PM.
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Capt O,
Got the same issue and noticed it when ready to finally install the heim joint kit. My bumpstops are trimmed and am using 2' drop shackles.
I spoke to Stan and he suggested the shock extenders and to read this thread as it outlines the correct parts or our application.
Bob
Got the same issue and noticed it when ready to finally install the heim joint kit. My bumpstops are trimmed and am using 2' drop shackles.
I spoke to Stan and he suggested the shock extenders and to read this thread as it outlines the correct parts or our application.
Bob
C-Notches are fine and they will get the designed travel.BUT the commercially available ones are to short to bregin back the tortional rigidity of the frame.I hve measured some and the frame flex afterwards is about 3 to 4X the stock frame.I made one that has less than .012 in flex and that was measuring at the fartherest most point back on the frame with over 500# jumping up and down over the c-notch.and the jack stands at the end of the frame where I was measuring.Stan
Originally posted by Ruslow
If you have LESS than 3 inches of travel
between your bump stop and axle.you could
possibly break or bend the axle tube if you
bottom out hard enough.Stan
If you have LESS than 3 inches of travel
between your bump stop and axle.you could
possibly break or bend the axle tube if you
bottom out hard enough.Stan
Or you can perform the dreaded BED in the A$$
end of the CAB maneuver !!! This was as about as
severe as the one Crazyone got on a dayum dead
policeman at the shopping center. I have a "knick"
on my newly refinished cab that showed the bed moved
about 1 1/2 " to just nab it.
Cliff
Speedin - good link. Looks like I'm gonna be getting those soon. I to noticed the difference when I went to install the Heim mounts. I wonder if Dan (pawn) has it with Roush setup.
Heres pics.
Passenger side (the shorter one):
Driver side:
You can see the rubber O-ring in the first picture about how it stops just below the top of the shaft. Another 1/2" and the shock would bottom out.
Both shocks got compressed the same amount though.
Heres pics.
Passenger side (the shorter one):
Driver side:
You can see the rubber O-ring in the first picture about how it stops just below the top of the shaft. Another 1/2" and the shock would bottom out.
Both shocks got compressed the same amount though.
Originally posted by player19
. . . What does a Ruslow upper heim joint shock mount does for you ?
. . . What does a Ruslow upper heim joint shock mount does for you ?
2. May stop squeaks (but may introduce rattles)
3. Looks cool.
Originally posted by captainoblivious
Tim - did the shock extenders help out much? I think I may need them on my truck.
The rear shocks do not have equal travel lengths on them. With the 2" drop from the hotchkis leafs, the driver side QA1 has about 4"-5" of shaft travel , were as the passenger side QA1 has closer to 3" travel.
Never really gave it much thought because the rubber O-ring doesn't go up high enough on the passenger shock to reach the heim mount, it's about 1/2" below the heim mount. So it appears the short travel on the passenger side shock is still enough for the suspension.
[edit]Edit to correct incorrect info after I crawled under and checked it out.[/edit]
Tim - did the shock extenders help out much? I think I may need them on my truck.
The rear shocks do not have equal travel lengths on them. With the 2" drop from the hotchkis leafs, the driver side QA1 has about 4"-5" of shaft travel , were as the passenger side QA1 has closer to 3" travel.
Never really gave it much thought because the rubber O-ring doesn't go up high enough on the passenger shock to reach the heim mount, it's about 1/2" below the heim mount. So it appears the short travel on the passenger side shock is still enough for the suspension.
[edit]Edit to correct incorrect info after I crawled under and checked it out.[/edit]
Maybe my thinking is wrong, but I am not comfortable with the shocks coming that close to bottoming out. Somehow I think that shocks should operate in the middle range for best performance.


