Tonight I wired up my intercooler pump to come on with a switch. Here is what I found after the switch was the installed. I let the truck run up to operating temp, I turned the truck off, opened the tank and took a temp reading (95 Degrees) Next I turned on my electric fan (radiator fan) and intercooler pump, waited 15 minutes and recorded a temp drop of only 3 degrees. :eek Took another reading and got another 2 degrees. In a 30 minute cool down, I dropped a total of 5 degrees Ive come to the conculsion that unless you are running fans on your intercooler Radiator, you arent doing chit. Im going to the track this weekend and will test results after making passes. The outside air temps at time of testing was 75 Degrees with 65% Humidity. So far Ive come to the conclusion that unless you are running fans on Intercooler radiator you arent doing chit. I will keep you guys posted on this weekends results.

 

here is a good test, pull the fuse for the intercooler pump and take a drive.

The intake temps will go up to around 140 degrees, and the computer will take a ton of timing out. Doing this will tell you just how efficient the intercooler in our trucks really is.

 

?????


Don Im not saying the intercooler sucks, Im saying that if you dont have Fans on the intercooler radiator, putting a switch on the pump seems to be useless.

 

hehe I was just being a wise A$$

 

even without fans the pump spinning keeps the temps from rising. Take your truck for a drive to the gas station go in and let the truck sit with the pump off come back out and turn the pump on. take a temp reading then and see how the fluid sitting in the intercooler in the intake soaked up the heat. If the fluid is spinning from a switch on the pump while sitting it will keep the temps from heat soaking.

 

As pointed out above, heat soak from the block is a factor. Maybe a better test would be to also run an electric radiator water pump and electric radiator fan at the same time.

Plus, remember that heat exchanger effectiveness (absolute, not relative) rises with temperature differential. If the exchanger will pull out 50% of the heat per unit of time, it will pull out more heat per unit of time when the water is 200 degrees than when it is 100 degrees. And, as the water cools, you will get less absolute drop per unit of time. Think of it like the half-life of atomic fallout -- it may decay at the same rate, but the absolute drop is fastest when at the beginning.

You are only talking about a 20 degree spread between the water and ambient.

But, even considering the above, those numbers are shockingly low. I just bought a Nordskog digital temp gauge (49-350 degrees) to establish baselines before upgrading to a JDM/REM/Fluidyne exhanger and e-fans. I think the sender should screw right into the petc*ck hole.

Thanks for taking the time to collect and share the data. I wish more people would take the time to measure things before drawing conclusions about how well something works.

 

The fastest way to take heat out of the heat exchanger and intercooler is to hook up that new NX intercooler kit....this kit will take out 20 to 30 degrees in about 10 seconds.....

 

 

So do you just hook that NX Intercooler as if it was a purge then on an existing system?

 

**** check your e-mail...

 

ok

 

What is the new NX intercooler Kit?

Thanks

 

It basically mounts in front of your heat exchanger and the cooling element has pinholes in it all around like a barberque burner......its activated by a single nitrous selenoid.....with the nitrous your not fighting ambient air temp......the nitrous is discharged in liquid form at about -575 degrees F freezing....if this wont cool nothing will...after your burnout I would activate it for about 5 sec and then hit it again after launch....you can also use CO2 for this..vendors claim this to be worth 50 hp on the dyno .........http://www.nitrousexpress.com/welcome.htm

 

It basically mounts in front of your heat exchanger and the cooling element has pinholes in it all around like a barberque burner......its activated by a single nitrous selenoid.....with the nitrous your not fighting ambient air temp......the nitrous is discharged in liquid form at about -575 degrees F freezing....if this wont cool nothing will...after your burnout I would activate it for about 5 sec and then hit it again after launch....you can also use CO2 for this..vendors claim this to be worth 50 hp on the dyno .........http://www.nitrousexpress.com/welcome.htm

 

It basically mounts in front of your heat exchanger and the cooling element has pinholes in it all around like a barberque burner......its activated by a single nitrous selenoid.....with the nitrous your not fighting ambient air temp and with the heat exchanger fans you'll cool even more......the nitrous is discharged in liquid form at about -575 degrees F freezing....if this wont cool nothing will...after your burnout I would activate it for about 5 sec and then hit it again after launch....you can also use CO2 for this..vendors claim this to be worth 50 hp on the dyno .........http://www.nitrousexpress.com/welcome.htm