4 Busted Knuckles and...
4 Busted Knuckles and...
Only have one and a half sides of these traction bars installed. 8th beer, Right angle drill to finish the horiontal bracket holes. 1-2 hrs based on appitude my *** according to the instructions
Must be rancho style traction bars.
When JR and I did the bars on my truck, we started with a right angle drill. It was such a pain we switched to a regular drill and it went much faster. The problem with the right angle drill is you can't get enough pressure on the drill bit.
Good luck Kev, it will be worth it when you are all done.
When JR and I did the bars on my truck, we started with a right angle drill. It was such a pain we switched to a regular drill and it went much faster. The problem with the right angle drill is you can't get enough pressure on the drill bit.
Good luck Kev, it will be worth it when you are all done.
bars
use a standard drill and a unibit/step bit, the bits are short and allow more room, this made the job simpler for me, torquing those front mounts to spec was still a PITA but 4 hours start to finish for both side and cleanup on my first attemp, zero problems to date. Good luck, Todd
Well, it took 8.5 hrs.
Here is the breakdown.
I ordered the LFP kit, which has these monster brackets.
I jacked the truck up, through 2 large jackstands under the axle and unbolted the ubolts, then replaced them with the u joint bolts, upper spring bracket and lower torque arm bracket.
After doing both sides, i took a little break. I couldnt believe how loose the factory ubolts were.
I broke out the makita and drilled the vertical holes in the frame. Started with a 7/16th bit for a pilot, then finished with a 25/64". That was cake work since i had new bits.
Hardest part for me was the horizonal holes. I broke out the 90 degree and it started smoking. I havent used this drill in about 7 years. So i headed down to Sears < grunt > and got one of those mini's. These drill own. As small as they are, they have monster torque and cutting power. I finished up all the holes and torqued everything with a torque wrench.
I have to say, despite all of the sores, missing skin and agony with this install, the end result was well worth it. These bars hook and i see a major difference from the truck traks i had installed.
Don, im very happy with these bars and will goto the track tomorrow to check out 60's.
I wish i had done these from the get go.
Ill post pics tomorrow for anyone interested in checking out these monster brackets.
Here is the breakdown.
I ordered the LFP kit, which has these monster brackets.
I jacked the truck up, through 2 large jackstands under the axle and unbolted the ubolts, then replaced them with the u joint bolts, upper spring bracket and lower torque arm bracket.
After doing both sides, i took a little break. I couldnt believe how loose the factory ubolts were.
I broke out the makita and drilled the vertical holes in the frame. Started with a 7/16th bit for a pilot, then finished with a 25/64". That was cake work since i had new bits.
Hardest part for me was the horizonal holes. I broke out the 90 degree and it started smoking. I havent used this drill in about 7 years. So i headed down to Sears < grunt > and got one of those mini's. These drill own. As small as they are, they have monster torque and cutting power. I finished up all the holes and torqued everything with a torque wrench.
I have to say, despite all of the sores, missing skin and agony with this install, the end result was well worth it. These bars hook and i see a major difference from the truck traks i had installed.
Don, im very happy with these bars and will goto the track tomorrow to check out 60's.
I wish i had done these from the get go.
Ill post pics tomorrow for anyone interested in checking out these monster brackets.
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Shouldn't have started with a 7/16th, that's huge. As a very basic rule of thumb your initial hole should be no more than 25% of the finished hole. Example a 1/2" finished hole should start with a 1/8" bit and work up.
Mine took an hour +/- 10mins.
Mine took an hour +/- 10mins.
I used the cobalts myself and the total drilling time was less than an hour. But I might add it took a week to install the JL bars and QA1's. Went from 1.8 with the TT's and ET Streets to a 1.6 with the JL bars,Hooisersand QA1's. Can't honestly say what parts reduced the 60 foot time, but .2 is nothing to sneeze at
As far as busted knuckles, I heard alcohol works best when used from the inside out
As far as busted knuckles, I heard alcohol works best when used from the inside out
Best 60's to date for me is 1.85, which is hardly impressive. This is why i moved to these bars Gator, so i should at least see a 3.5 reduction in my ET. Ill see in 6 hrs when i hit the track. Im also starting to think those 16X8 wheels were a wrong move for my Hoosier 28X10X16 slicks. Oh well, its just $$.
It was actually a 7/64" pilot hole, doh!! Thanks for pointing that out.
I will say, both bits ripped through the frame like butter. I then used a magnet to cleanup all of the sharp metal shaving. That mini drill did save my assnacoshna.
Pro- Hell no, im NEVER doing another set of these again. I will pull a gator and offer my wisdom through the beer gods as i chug while the poor guy install his bars.
Cheers
It was actually a 7/64" pilot hole, doh!! Thanks for pointing that out.
I will say, both bits ripped through the frame like butter. I then used a magnet to cleanup all of the sharp metal shaving. That mini drill did save my assnacoshna.
Pro- Hell no, im NEVER doing another set of these again. I will pull a gator and offer my wisdom through the beer gods as i chug while the poor guy install his bars.
Cheers
Although the traction bars were a bit of a pain, they still seemed like a walk in the park when compared to the rear hanger install that I have already done. It really humbles you that something so simple can be such a gigantic pain in the a$$.


