How do I flush ATF without torque convertor drain plug?
My 2003 has a 4x4 trans pan with a drain plug so that part is easy, but the torque converter doesn't have a drain plug as far as I can tell (I checked by spinning just in case). I remember Gregg Evans saying Lightnings built after a certain date in 2001 won't have the plug. So I assume I have to flush the entire system (pan, converter, wormtrail, etc) from the topside at the fitting going into the trans cooler? Or what?
I was discussing this option with the dealer and they noticed the the hard line and fitting for my 2003 was different than the 2001 model parked next to me. Any tips, notes, or ideas on best approaches to this? I ultimately want to completely flush my system and refill with Mobil 1 ATF.
BTW, I already swung by my local Jiffy Lube and the dude claimed to know more "facts" (*cough*) about my truck than I did. I ran as soon as he revved his air ratchet.
I was discussing this option with the dealer and they noticed the the hard line and fitting for my 2003 was different than the 2001 model parked next to me. Any tips, notes, or ideas on best approaches to this? I ultimately want to completely flush my system and refill with Mobil 1 ATF.
BTW, I already swung by my local Jiffy Lube and the dude claimed to know more "facts" (*cough*) about my truck than I did. I ran as soon as he revved his air ratchet.
Re: How do I flush ATF without torque convertor drain plug?
Originally posted by BMWBig6
My 2003 has a 4x4 trans pan with a drain plug so that part is easy, but the torque converter doesn't have a drain plug as far as I can tell (I checked by spinning just in case). I remember Gregg Evans saying Lightnings built after a certain date in 2001 won't have the plug. So I assume I have to flush the entire system (pan, converter, wormtrail, etc) from the topside at the fitting going into the trans cooler? Or what?
I was discussing this option with the dealer and they noticed the the hard line and fitting for my 2003 was different than the 2001 model parked next to me. Any tips, notes, or ideas on best approaches to this? I ultimately want to completely flush my system and refill with Mobil 1 ATF.
BTW, I already swung by my local Jiffy Lube and the dude claimed to know more "facts" (*cough*) about my truck than I did. I ran as soon as he revved his air ratchet.
My 2003 has a 4x4 trans pan with a drain plug so that part is easy, but the torque converter doesn't have a drain plug as far as I can tell (I checked by spinning just in case). I remember Gregg Evans saying Lightnings built after a certain date in 2001 won't have the plug. So I assume I have to flush the entire system (pan, converter, wormtrail, etc) from the topside at the fitting going into the trans cooler? Or what?
I was discussing this option with the dealer and they noticed the the hard line and fitting for my 2003 was different than the 2001 model parked next to me. Any tips, notes, or ideas on best approaches to this? I ultimately want to completely flush my system and refill with Mobil 1 ATF.
BTW, I already swung by my local Jiffy Lube and the dude claimed to know more "facts" (*cough*) about my truck than I did. I ran as soon as he revved his air ratchet.
NONONONO
Yes !!! do have your Tranny flushed and filled by a Transmission service center with a Transmission Fluid Machine such as a T Tech. YOu will Flush your system and not alter the fluid flow duiring the flush... As for your choice of mobile 1.. I do not recomend. Mobile 1 is not 100% synthetic.....it is about 96 or so..
I have used Amsoil Sythetic on both of my L's and had awsome results.... Redline is also a superior brand.... As the Roush ENgineer told me last month in Detroit .. Change the fluid often.... Heat kills these machines...
I have used Amsoil Sythetic on both of my L's and had awsome results.... Redline is also a superior brand.... As the Roush ENgineer told me last month in Detroit .. Change the fluid often.... Heat kills these machines...
Redline's Synthetic D4 fluid flushed in to my tran. by a local 'quik-lube' as I watched--30,000+ miles on it with NO problems.
Btw, you do not need to change the filter as per Gregg.
Dan
Btw, you do not need to change the filter as per Gregg.
Dan
I was told the filter is nothing more than a screen to prevent metal shavings from entering the system... I agree after I reomved my pan for replacement of my accumulator...... Notmuch filtering ability there. The Magnet on the bottom of the pan is much more important
Thanks for the advice. Everyone around here seems to want $99 to do the job, so maybe it's worth the expense of letting the pros do it right. They better not strip any drain plug bolts though!
Originally posted by JSLIM
I was told the filter is nothing more than a screen to prevent metal shavings from entering the system... I agree after I reomved my pan for replacement of my accumulator...... Notmuch filtering ability there. The Magnet on the bottom of the pan is much more important
I was told the filter is nothing more than a screen to prevent metal shavings from entering the system... I agree after I reomved my pan for replacement of my accumulator...... Notmuch filtering ability there. The Magnet on the bottom of the pan is much more important
But have decided to install a Magnfine filter instead:
$25. Installs inline. Approved by Ford. It's a real no-brainer mod IMHO.
Trending Topics
No worry about the drain plug being stripped.... They do not take the pan out ... They tap into the tranny cooler connection by th radiator... Yes .. The going rate is $99 with there fluid... You can purchase your own fluid for the job. You will need 14 qt... That is what there machine takes.... You then will most likley pay their shop rate for the time it take .. The two times I have had mine done it takes close to 1 hour.......
I paid 65 every time then 14 qt of fluid at almost 6-7 a qt adds up too. But you do not want just any ATF in these Trannys.
I paid 65 every time then 14 qt of fluid at almost 6-7 a qt adds up too. But you do not want just any ATF in these Trannys.
Originally posted by Flying ****
Tim,
Where exactly do we tap to install that mag filter? looks like a good mod.
Tim,
Where exactly do we tap to install that mag filter? looks like a good mod.
If not, my money would be on one of the hard lines. I think you need to remove about 12" of hard line. If you order the "smart connect" fittings with the filter, you use a small pipe/tubing cutter (avail at Home Depot) to cut the fluid line, then deburr the ends. The smart connect fittings then slip over the cut tube and seal the connection with a compression fitting.
I also bought one of the Magnefine spin-on pre-filters for my new dual remote engine oil filters. Looks like a hot mod for $18. Huge magnet in that puppy! Although they recommend periodic replacement, it looks like a solvent bath and a good blasting with an air hose would clean it up good enough to reuse forever.
In short, I dig Mangefine's stuff.
p.s. -- don't even try to use the online ordering -- it does not work. Give them a call to order. Very nice folks. Quick shipping.
Originally posted by Tim Skelton
I orginally bought a Perma-Cool remote filter:
But have decided to install a Magnfine filter instead:
$25. Installs inline. Approved by Ford. It's a real no-brainer mod IMHO.
I orginally bought a Perma-Cool remote filter:
But have decided to install a Magnfine filter instead:
$25. Installs inline. Approved by Ford. It's a real no-brainer mod IMHO.
What's your opinion on this filter? Do we need an extra filter?


