grey 03 go ruin someone elses thread, or just dont reply anymore,
anyways theres no dyno in NM thats at 1000 ft and even if there was, where we live is way high so it really wouldnt help alot.
hilander i really think that the dyno we used is off in measuring the A/F. i may be wrong. you had some monster numbers anyway.

 

I know this is an expensive option, but maybe you guys can all go in together on a FJO wideband? Its a piece of cake to make it into a mobile unit to move from truck to truck. At least then, you will really know what your a/f is under true load on the streets instead of relying on that dyno who may be running a beat up wideband.

 

how much is it, where do we get one?

 

Thanks Eaton, Congrats on your numbers too, We have three new members in 400/500 club Yeah something seems not correct with the a/f numbers. We were all 14s including the stock truck.

I am looking into a wideband setup, Somebody posted about a kit from new Zealand a while back. Good price, just need to get the details.

 

i got the fjo in 3 days from this guys,the syst have a $50 revate from the manufatured http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/Show...ategoryCd=O2KI

 

That looks just the thing. Did you get the dta logging/pc kit or the led display type? Also how does it hook up? Do you need to get a bung pre cat?
Any info you have would be great, Thanks

 

My 01 has been on 2 different dyno's. I ran it stock, with a 2 lb pulley, and a 5lb pulley without a chip. The air/fuel ratio was 12 in all cases. Fuel trim with the 5lb pulley was 15%. I also have a Diablo 2 program chip that ran 11 on both programs which I think is a little rich (the plugs even show it).

 

so when you get those kits, do you hook it up to a air fuel guage or how does that work?

 

one last thing we might look into hilander, is mafterburners. just a thought though.

 

i got the pc or hand held kit,also the green display,rpm clamp,o2 sensor.this is the way to go,you could record you're runs monitor air fuel ratio in real driving conditions with out paying the high prices on a dyno.

 

Thanks, that sounds the best way to go. I like the idea of using a pc or hand held.

Please reply with the part numbers you orderd. Oh and where does the sensor go? In a bung? Do you drill a hole. Just getting into this side of things so I am looking for lots of info

Thanks again.

 

Gator, do you just troll around the boards making stabs at people? I've seen you do a lot of that lately..... Guess the Louisville Hooters isn't cutting it huh?

Easter: How many O2 bungs are you using for your FJO? One on each side? Are they lasting? The Honda ones correct?

I like you gauge setup a lot and would prefer a digital wideband readout over the Gadgetseller/Autometer ones....

 

I don't use rear O2 sensors. So I blocked one of the stock holes and installed the wideband O2 into the other. So far it has lasted around 11K miles. I have also ran around 40 gallons of leaded gas through the engine.

 

My HP was 324.7 @ 4800 and Torque was 396.2 @ 3600RPM. My truck has about 1000 miles on it, and everyone keeps saying that my power will increse with some more mileage. I just don't see it picking that much power up.

I quess I'm getting a 15% drivetrain loss which calculates to about the power I'm making. Its just frustrated, cause I thought these trucks had 350+ at the wheels when they are stock.

The 1st time I dynoed, a week ago, I thought maybe there was something wrong with the dyno. So I dynoed again to make sure and they were alomost identical (2 hp diff).

The only thing left is to run it at the track. Locally I only have an 1/8th mile track but I quess I'll give that a try next weekend.

 

These figures are a little low, but some trucks respond much better than others to mods. Yours would probably pick up more than most