I have the relocated Optima battery installed under the bed and all wiring is done. I am ready to remove the battery in the engine compartment.



I have an alternator relay as well to kill the feedback from the alternator. This has been mentioned by several people as the way to go, not only to completely disconnect the electrical system, but also to keep voltage from surging to the PCM, which could fry it. So I am going to insert the relay between the alternator wire and where it connects to the starter solenoid lugs pictured below.

One hangup: What to do with the wires pictured below?



These appear to be coming from the light green/red wire, which, according to the Haynes manual, go to the "instrument panel/charge indicator." If these feed back into the PCM, I would need to find a way to disconnect these also, right?

Full details of my wiring plans are here.

Any help would be appreciated. This and the oil/tranny cooler/filter project have been my weekend projects. I have made zero headway on either.

 

Sorry i cant help, i suck at eletrical, but isnt the alternator used to tell rpms? In which case i think that little wire is attached to that small module in the alternator. Just a thought.

 

Sick!

 

Hi Tim
I've been thinking about this for a while and Stan is right, its not easy to hook this thing up without a possible power surge to the computer.

Seems to me that no matter how you hook it up, if you turn the master cutoff switch off you are Okay......just dont turn it back on.

Or you can turn it back on IF the main ground is disconnected. The ground has to go back on last. Does this make sense or am I in left field somewhere ?
Dale

 

I'm thinking left field.

The problem is not when it's cut on, the problem is when it's cut off -- and the alternator is still putting out current. That's why I am concerned about this last little connection.

When cutting the power back on, the alternator is not doing anything.

I am under the hood right now, battery is out, and wires getting cut-soldered, mangled, twisted, broken, etc. So long as I emerge from under the hood with juice, I'm okay for now. I just want to get it hooked up right in case some tech monkey decides to test out the switch -- which I heard some will do. Thanks to all for looking (and thinking). I will be checking back periodically (unless I touch the wrong wires).

 

Hey Tim; The wires you have labeled "what is this" goes to the alternator, and should carry on to the main fues/relay box.

I was thinking about the battery relocation idea; couldn't you just run the new battery wires and hooke them up to the wires that are already there?

 

WOW MAN thats deep
Sorry Tim, thats waaaaaay over my head,
If I was relocating my Batt, I'd prob duct tape a
few batt cables together and just strap it to the
back wall in the bed with band iron,
or something ?

I love your Site and Mod's Tim, you are a
true perfectionist, and always do a picture perfect
creation and install. 6 THUMBS UP
I'm feeling fine tonight
heheheheheheheheheheheh

 

i dont think so cause wouldnt underdrive pulleys throw it off then?

are u movin just the battery or all that other ***** as well?

 

What other *****?

 

Battery is gone. Passed the smoke test and fired right up.

Here is where I sit:


I still need to wire up the Painless alternator relay. I have run the trip wire for the relay back to the disconnect, but am waiting on someone to decend from the heavens and answer my question on the two little wires.

Until I get the Sir Michael's intalled, the master disconnect is in the trailer hitch hole:


I case you are wondering how long this project has taken, I'm at least 30 hours into it with the battery box fabrication.


I must be f*ckin nutz.

 

That will not shut down the power if the engine is still running. The alterator will keep feeding current into the charging system. So the alternator needs to the wired to the disconnect also. My switch has two poles -- one for the battery, one for the alternator -- but the alternator circuit is only rated at 30 amps? Thus, I spent another $70 and bought the Painless alternator relay.

 

the stuff you labeled

but i see in your next posts u arent

 

I see what you mean about still feeding current and keeping the truck running. I have never done it before; I would like to, but I see a lot of problems and a hole lot of time like you said.

I guess right now you have everything working, you just would not pass tech inspection if someone really checked it out.