New Thread On An Old Subject (Oil Filters)
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From: Utah
New Thread On An Old Subject (Oil Filters)
I've searched and read most of the information on the site about oil filter preferences. I thought I would see if the opinions are still the same. What oil filter are you running or do you recommend and why?
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From: Warner Robins, Ga, CSA
I've always(since my second oil change) used the K&N Gold oil filter. Yesterday, I changed the oil again and installed a Canton(replaceable element) oil filter. The K&N always worked fine but I got a 'wild hair' and went with the Canton......................
Dan
Dan
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From: Utah
Originally posted by LIGHTNINROD
I changed the oil again and installed a Canton(replaceable element) oil filter.
Dan
I changed the oil again and installed a Canton(replaceable element) oil filter.
Dan
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From: Miami / NYC
I use the OEM motorcraft filter. Read this oil filter study here to find out much more.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...tml#motorcraft
You can find out more about the canton oil filter here: http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...tml#motorcraft
This is an interesting filter. Basically, it is a Purolator Pure One filter cartridge in a Purolator Premium Plus case. Don't be fooled by the differently shaped holes cut into the oil inlet. This is the only difference. This is a good filter design and if you want to get a Purolator Pure One filter, get this one instead: it is cheaper.
Like the Purolator Pure One, this filter cartridge features a very large element surface area (400 sqin), but with many pleats (64). This packs the filter together rather tightly and may restrict flow somewhat. I could identify the Pure One element media by a purple dye they use at the seam. It also has the mysterious assembly string wrapped around the outside of the element. Like the Purolators, it features a spring-loaded metal bypass valve and a nitrile rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve. The bypass valve is stamped right into the bottom end cap of the cartridge, so it is all one piece.
Like the Purolator Pure One, this filter cartridge features a very large element surface area (400 sqin), but with many pleats (64). This packs the filter together rather tightly and may restrict flow somewhat. I could identify the Pure One element media by a purple dye they use at the seam. It also has the mysterious assembly string wrapped around the outside of the element. Like the Purolators, it features a spring-loaded metal bypass valve and a nitrile rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve. The bypass valve is stamped right into the bottom end cap of the cartridge, so it is all one piece.
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Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Cincinnati, OH
I'm sure someone (Sal?) posted once why you can't use an FL-1A filter, and I can't find it. I'd like to know, though. On my tranny spin on filter I want to use the FL-1AHP (or FL-1AR , I can never remember, but the race vesrion of the FL-1A). The tranny kit calls for the FL-1A, so I know it works, but what is the difference, anyone know?
G
G
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: SE Mich
Pure-o-later here because it is made with the highest quality components.
From my *first hand* knowledge on the subject, the motorcraft filters are actually the best value. (Quality vs cost)
WOT
From my *first hand* knowledge on the subject, the motorcraft filters are actually the best value. (Quality vs cost)
WOT
