anyone have rotors cut, or do you just replace them?
anyone have rotors cut, or do you just replace them?
I just replaced my brake pads all 4 of them and I'm so glad I did. The truck drives so much better now it isn't screeching and squeeling... But I think I need new rotors to now. When I come to a hard stop the truck sometimes vibrates, and when I come to a slow stop at a stop sign, i can feel the warp in the rotor. When the wheel goes around, the truck wobbles kinda. The rotors felt real smooth and didnt look bad at all. Thats my question, can I get them cut. Or do I need them replaced. Either way, what am I looking at for cost? Thanks, Shane
Depends....
I think I paid about 12 dollars for the front...good advice to always turn when installing new pads..they will check the run out and if the thickness is within spec..should be no probles....just pulling them after a pad install is why the money is well spent...
I think I paid about 12 dollars for the front...good advice to always turn when installing new pads..they will check the run out and if the thickness is within spec..should be no probles....just pulling them after a pad install is why the money is well spent...
I just ordered a set of the Brembo rotors from tire rack. $81.00 each was allmost to good of a deal to pass up. If they get here quick enough I might just get them criogenically frozen before I install them.
I thought about turning the rotors that are on the truck now, but i am starting to notice a bunch of little hair line cracks.
I thought about turning the rotors that are on the truck now, but i am starting to notice a bunch of little hair line cracks.
can I change mine myself, they arent pressed on right. and I can turn them myself right? For 80 thats not a bad deal at all. let me know how you like them, and if you reccomend them I may pick up some myself. thanks, Shane
don, i know your coming to the party, but anyway, is that deal a special or can anyone get them? are they drilled?
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Originally posted by Twisted99
Depends....
I think I paid about 12 dollars for the front...good advice to always turn when installing new pads..they will check the run out and if the thickness is within spec..should be no probles....just pulling them after a pad install is why the money is well spent...
Depends....
I think I paid about 12 dollars for the front...good advice to always turn when installing new pads..they will check the run out and if the thickness is within spec..should be no probles....just pulling them after a pad install is why the money is well spent...
You should always turn the rotors when replacing the pads. Another quick point, if you can, have the rotors turned on the vehicle. Even the slightest difference in the hub, will cause runout. Having them turned on the vehicle, matches the rotor to the hub. The results are vibration free braking, and longer lasting pads. If you are as picky as I am, even with brand new rotors out of the box, I turn them on vehicle. But be prepared, it will not be $12.00 per wheel. Our on car brake lathe was $7,500, so we have to charge accordingly. But arent our Fords worth it???
Shane,
You can take them to most of the major auto parts stores and have them turned. Pepboys,Autozone,Napa etc. Just pull them off and bring them in. They will let you know if they are still in good enough shape to turn. I would just call some of the places in our area to get the best price. Be prepared to have to leave them. Sometime they will take a few hrs depending on how many people are in front of you.
You can take them to most of the major auto parts stores and have them turned. Pepboys,Autozone,Napa etc. Just pull them off and bring them in. They will let you know if they are still in good enough shape to turn. I would just call some of the places in our area to get the best price. Be prepared to have to leave them. Sometime they will take a few hrs depending on how many people are in front of you.
Originally posted by Haku
You should always turn the rotors when replacing the pads. Another quick point, if you can, have the rotors turned on the vehicle. Even the slightest difference in the hub, will cause runout. Having them turned on the vehicle, matches the rotor to the hub. The results are vibration free braking, and longer lasting pads. If you are as picky as I am, even with brand new rotors out of the box, I turn them on vehicle. But be prepared, it will not be $12.00 per wheel. Our on car brake lathe was $7,500, so we have to charge accordingly. But arent our Fords worth it???
You should always turn the rotors when replacing the pads. Another quick point, if you can, have the rotors turned on the vehicle. Even the slightest difference in the hub, will cause runout. Having them turned on the vehicle, matches the rotor to the hub. The results are vibration free braking, and longer lasting pads. If you are as picky as I am, even with brand new rotors out of the box, I turn them on vehicle. But be prepared, it will not be $12.00 per wheel. Our on car brake lathe was $7,500, so we have to charge accordingly. But arent our Fords worth it???
The main reason I'm asking is because I'm getting new dimpled and slotted rotors on Friday. They were pretty expensive so I'm not trying to drop abunch of cash for getting them turned on a vehicle based on a principle I don't understand. What's the process? And how much does it normally run?
And a bit off topic, I know I should replace the pads at the same time, but shouldn't I get a special pad for slotted/dimpled rotors as well?
Turning Rotors
Found this while doing a little research:
"Found over the years, that turning rotors every time you do pads, is not cost effective. It will give you the best braking when you are finished, but also cost you new rotors, probably after the second pad replacement. If you didn't go metal to metal, that is run all the lining off the pads, and damage your rotors, new pads don't care what the rotor looks like. Groves, etc. The new pads will conform in 2-300 miles, to what ever shape of the rotor face. Without turning the rotors, you may have some squeal, but the trade off in $ is enough to avoid the extra cost. If you have it done at shop, the Techs are usually in a hurry, and will take a big cut off the rotor, on the first pass, and finish grinding with a small cut. The rotors usually are not thick enough after 50K, to allow any cutting. The solid rotors that a lot of Import cars have, are
worthless for cutting after 40K, and should not be turned. They are marginal in thickness, and when turned to allowable minmum thickness, will quite often warp, very soon after being turned. Usually, the solid rotors are cheap enough, it is a waste of money to turn them, since they warp easy, and cause your brake pedal to bump when used. I have even put new pads on rotors that were damaged by metal to metal contact from the pad going away, with no problems, except of course shorter pad life.
GM put out a service bulletin 2-3 years ago, that says basically the same about turning rotors each time. "
Sounds like from this guys point of view, if you have quite a few miles on them, might as well get new rotors, and if not, make sure you take them to a shop that will do a good job on them. Of course this is just one mechanics opinion.
Mark
"Found over the years, that turning rotors every time you do pads, is not cost effective. It will give you the best braking when you are finished, but also cost you new rotors, probably after the second pad replacement. If you didn't go metal to metal, that is run all the lining off the pads, and damage your rotors, new pads don't care what the rotor looks like. Groves, etc. The new pads will conform in 2-300 miles, to what ever shape of the rotor face. Without turning the rotors, you may have some squeal, but the trade off in $ is enough to avoid the extra cost. If you have it done at shop, the Techs are usually in a hurry, and will take a big cut off the rotor, on the first pass, and finish grinding with a small cut. The rotors usually are not thick enough after 50K, to allow any cutting. The solid rotors that a lot of Import cars have, are
worthless for cutting after 40K, and should not be turned. They are marginal in thickness, and when turned to allowable minmum thickness, will quite often warp, very soon after being turned. Usually, the solid rotors are cheap enough, it is a waste of money to turn them, since they warp easy, and cause your brake pedal to bump when used. I have even put new pads on rotors that were damaged by metal to metal contact from the pad going away, with no problems, except of course shorter pad life.
GM put out a service bulletin 2-3 years ago, that says basically the same about turning rotors each time. "
Sounds like from this guys point of view, if you have quite a few miles on them, might as well get new rotors, and if not, make sure you take them to a shop that will do a good job on them. Of course this is just one mechanics opinion.
Mark


