question 4 pawn...
question 4 pawn...
Whats up ?? I had a few suspension ? for a fellow jersey boy I am kind of torn between the roush kit at 750. shipped. or a set stans springs and what ever else he has to offer. i would like to get a 2" drop in the front and 3" in the rear, eric from roush said the drop is a 1.5" up front and 2-2.25" in the rear is that the same setup u have?? any info will be a great help
Thanks
Smok'n L
Thanks
Smok'n L
Are you looking for just a drop or a better handling kit? If it is the latter, you can opt for Ruslow's products which are better in general but more expensive. The price of 4 QA1s will be almost the same as that Roush kit, of course they are 12-way adjustable.
If I were building a suspension kit without money constraints, I would do Stan's front coils (or Hotchkis ones), Hotchkis leafs, QA1s at all corners, Stan's heim joint kit, Hotchkis front and rear swaybars w/ Stan's adjustable endlinks, and Stan's panhard bar.
If I were building a suspension kit without money constraints, I would do Stan's front coils (or Hotchkis ones), Hotchkis leafs, QA1s at all corners, Stan's heim joint kit, Hotchkis front and rear swaybars w/ Stan's adjustable endlinks, and Stan's panhard bar.
Hey guys,
Smok'n...my springs settled out for more then a 1.5" drop, I'm pretty sure its two even, but I'd have to go measure and double check.
Cyntaxx is right if you know what rates to build out for with ordering springs from Stan. The only difference between what he said and what I run is I have ROUSH springs (not shocks) instead of Hotchkis springs, I don't have adjustible rear end links (didn't need them) and I don't have the heim joints yet.
If you're looking for the easiest "package" to give you a drop and improve performance, get the ROUSH kit, the shocks they give are matched. You won't be disappointed. Remember to get some adjusted length end-links too to put the swaybars back to parallel.
Daniel
Smok'n...my springs settled out for more then a 1.5" drop, I'm pretty sure its two even, but I'd have to go measure and double check.
Cyntaxx is right if you know what rates to build out for with ordering springs from Stan. The only difference between what he said and what I run is I have ROUSH springs (not shocks) instead of Hotchkis springs, I don't have adjustible rear end links (didn't need them) and I don't have the heim joints yet.
If you're looking for the easiest "package" to give you a drop and improve performance, get the ROUSH kit, the shocks they give are matched. You won't be disappointed. Remember to get some adjusted length end-links too to put the swaybars back to parallel.
Daniel
Originally posted by thepawn
I don't have adjustible rear end links (didn't need them)
Remember to get some adjusted length end-links too to put the swaybars back to parallel.
Daniel
I don't have adjustible rear end links (didn't need them)
Remember to get some adjusted length end-links too to put the swaybars back to parallel.
Daniel
Hey pawn, does stan make springs that are custom lowered hights and rates?
I would like to get some for my front that are 1/2 an inch lower then my bell techs, but they ride more like stock SVT springs for a smoother ride.
whats his email again?
I would like to get some for my front that are 1/2 an inch lower then my bell techs, but they ride more like stock SVT springs for a smoother ride.
whats his email again?
thanks guys for the response.
Cyntaxx I wish money wasnt a problem but if i decide to go auto-x-ing i dont want to have to go out and change my suspension setup once its done then i want it to be done..(if possible)
The bilsteins that come w/the roush kit are they any good for drag as well??
Pawn do u have any pics? and maybe a price breakdown if u dont mind??? and also how long can u drive before the sway bars haave to be put back to level only because i dont know if i will be doing everything at once..
Later
Smok'n L
Cyntaxx I wish money wasnt a problem but if i decide to go auto-x-ing i dont want to have to go out and change my suspension setup once its done then i want it to be done..(if possible)
The bilsteins that come w/the roush kit are they any good for drag as well??
Pawn do u have any pics? and maybe a price breakdown if u dont mind??? and also how long can u drive before the sway bars haave to be put back to level only because i dont know if i will be doing everything at once..
Later
Smok'n L
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Originally posted by Smok'n L
The bilsteins that come w/the roush kit are they any good for drag as well??
The bilsteins that come w/the roush kit are they any good for drag as well??
I pulled 2.0 60's on my dropped truck running my Pirelli streets.
Cyntaxx -- My end links are height adjusted, yeah, so I didn't need adjustibles. For the most part, since we don't have coil-overs, most people will not be changing their suspension hieght very often...the only real benefit to adjustible end-links for us is you can maximize the "fine tuning" of getting the sway bars level. My rear one is "slightly" off, but not by much with what Hotchkis provided...it depends on how much weight is in the rear.
RT -- Yes he does, shoot him an email, he can pretty much get made whatever is needed on the spring side as long as you know what you're looking for... ruslow@yahoo.com
Smokin' -- You can drive around without the sway bars being level, but you'll lose a bit in handling on corners.
Front Spring & QA1:

Front Swaybar and shortened end-link:

Rear QA1, adjusted endlink springs and swaybar:
Cyntaxx -- My end links are height adjusted, yeah, so I didn't need adjustibles. For the most part, since we don't have coil-overs, most people will not be changing their suspension hieght very often...the only real benefit to adjustible end-links for us is you can maximize the "fine tuning" of getting the sway bars level. My rear one is "slightly" off, but not by much with what Hotchkis provided...it depends on how much weight is in the rear.
RT -- Yes he does, shoot him an email, he can pretty much get made whatever is needed on the spring side as long as you know what you're looking for... ruslow@yahoo.com
Smokin' -- You can drive around without the sway bars being level, but you'll lose a bit in handling on corners.
Front Spring & QA1:

Front Swaybar and shortened end-link:

Rear QA1, adjusted endlink springs and swaybar:
Panhard Bar and Swaybar (note swaybar is not level because the truck is on the lift):

The complete rear:

The suspension at work, you can see the turn G's by looking at my air freshener:

The complete rear:

The suspension at work, you can see the turn G's by looking at my air freshener:
Turning the other way (in slolom):

I'm a little forgetful on the pricing, but it was something like this:
ROUSH (no shocks) $500
QA1's (all four) $650
Hotchkis Sways $500
Panhard $totally forget, $120?
Install@JDM ~$400
The tires I run:
Pirelli P-Zero Asymettricos $320/wheel
BFG Comp R1/A's $100/wheel (they were discontinued)
Dan

I'm a little forgetful on the pricing, but it was something like this:
ROUSH (no shocks) $500
QA1's (all four) $650
Hotchkis Sways $500
Panhard $totally forget, $120?
Install@JDM ~$400
The tires I run:
Pirelli P-Zero Asymettricos $320/wheel
BFG Comp R1/A's $100/wheel (they were discontinued)
Dan
Originally posted by cyntaxx
If I were building a suspension kit without money constraints, I would do Stan's front coils (or Hotchkis ones), Hotchkis leafs, QA1s at all corners, Stan's heim joint kit, Hotchkis front and rear swaybars w/ Stan's adjustable endlinks, and Stan's panhard bar.
If I were building a suspension kit without money constraints, I would do Stan's front coils (or Hotchkis ones), Hotchkis leafs, QA1s at all corners, Stan's heim joint kit, Hotchkis front and rear swaybars w/ Stan's adjustable endlinks, and Stan's panhard bar.
Dan: I noticed you still have your hard toneau when racing, etc. Does that go for the spare as well? Any reason why you kept these pieces on? (weight distribution?)
I am in the process of getting a hard toneau and was worried about the weight. But it seems you are doing fine with the added weight...just wondering if it might even help? (I know that sounds silly :P)
I also noticed you went with the Roush sans shocks and came back with QA1s. Sounds like a viable option, especially for us 01+ guys with Bilsteins already. Hmmmm to QA1 or not to QA1....650 = $$$ hehehehe
I am in the process of getting a hard toneau and was worried about the weight. But it seems you are doing fine with the added weight...just wondering if it might even help? (I know that sounds silly :P)
I also noticed you went with the Roush sans shocks and came back with QA1s. Sounds like a viable option, especially for us 01+ guys with Bilsteins already. Hmmmm to QA1 or not to QA1....650 = $$$ hehehehe
believe it or not,what I sell is cheaper than many of the other suspension tuners.And you can choose what type of ride you want.along with the type of handling.I have run over 160 with this set up and have had no problems with the truck floating and still drove it on the street.It was a little lose feeling in the turns at first but after the truck took a 'set' it was like it was on rails.
As for now with the IRS unit I stiffened everything up more to take full advantage of it.But I do still drive it on the street and its a blast going around turns having vettes and munstangs thinking they can out handle me!!Stan
As for now with the IRS unit I stiffened everything up more to take full advantage of it.But I do still drive it on the street and its a blast going around turns having vettes and munstangs thinking they can out handle me!!Stan


