Well I done it now... w/ pics
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 984
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From: SW MO
Originally posted by Black2000L
Both times that i have had my pads wear down its always been the driver's side first. The ford dealership said thats how it usually happens but didnt give me an explannation anybody want to shine in on this?
Both times that i have had my pads wear down its always been the driver's side first. The ford dealership said thats how it usually happens but didnt give me an explannation anybody want to shine in on this?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 207
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From: Chicago
I had a 2001 Sport Trac once, and the drivers side wore down like 3/1 times faster. I took it in because it wrecked my rotor and I wasn't about to pay to fix it. Ford service guy told me that the driver's side always wears out faster...and I pissed and moaned and explained to him that no way in HELL the drivers side would wear 3/1 
I was getting scared reading this post though, with the talk about how the drivers wear faster <g>... please tell me there is no way it could wear 3/1 though. Driver side wearing out 3 times more then the passanger.
Either way, they where fixing it, and I called up Ford Customer Service and explained to them. The manager of the dealership called me the next day and went over it with me, and said he doens't know a lot of technical stuff about cars, but made no sense how that could happen. He seen maybe a little, but no way 3/1. He went out to look at the brakes and the rotors and said there was something seriously wrong. They replaced the calipar/pistons on the drivers side and found a default in the brakes! They redid all 4 brakes for free <grin>! Good stuff.
I was getting scared reading this post though, with the talk about how the drivers wear faster <g>... please tell me there is no way it could wear 3/1 though. Driver side wearing out 3 times more then the passanger. Either way, they where fixing it, and I called up Ford Customer Service and explained to them. The manager of the dealership called me the next day and went over it with me, and said he doens't know a lot of technical stuff about cars, but made no sense how that could happen. He seen maybe a little, but no way 3/1. He went out to look at the brakes and the rotors and said there was something seriously wrong. They replaced the calipar/pistons on the drivers side and found a default in the brakes! They redid all 4 brakes for free <grin>! Good stuff.
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 342
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From: Grayson, GA
Re: Well I done it now... w/ pics
Originally posted by mocklab
Well, I've done gone and got something screwy. It started back in March. I heard my brakes start doing their little squeal. Went to have it check out and yep the pads were getting low. But also, the front rotors were cracked. So I started looking for some replacements. I tried to get by the dealer and see if they'd cover it... yeah right. They gave me that 12k mi crap. Oh well. End of April I put in an order to Ruslow for a set of his rotors (excellent btw) and Hawk Heavy Duty HPS Street pads (also great). Thing is rotors came in but the pads didn't come in till 1st week in May. 1 good thing, I as out of town 1/2 of April so I only drove it to work for total of 2 more weeks. Boy what a horrible sound. Metal on metal sounds terrible. Turns out the driver’s side rotor inside had worn down to all metal on metal. Not a shred of pad left. Strange how the outside pad still had ~1mm of pad all the way across. Q: How did this happen? Well found a shop to swap all 4 rotors & pads, pack bearings for $100. Not bad. (I would've had help to do it myself, but mechanic buddy wasn't available that weekend. I hadn't done it before, so wasn't about to strand myself.)
So I get home, now with wonderful brakes. Decide it was time to wash it. It had been couple months and she was looking dirty. I get to washing and notice something that won’t come off. I scrub and have to scrub really, really hard to get it to somewhat go away. I look and all down the drivers side, hood, some front bumper, down the bed side, and even most of the tailgate is this very ruff, brown material that just won’t come off. I get to the passenger side, and it’s nowhere near as bad, maybe not even at all. I start to wash the wheels, and front driver wheel has something all stuck on it that won’t come off. I talk to a few buddies and we get some ideas, but still don’t really have a clue.
So I call my Insurance and say that something has gotten all over the truck’s driver side from front to back and I think I have driven through something that splashed up and covered the side in the rainy weather. They say, that sort of thing is covered under comprehensive. Yeah! I put in the claim, they call, get it taken care of. All I got to do is take it to a body shop on their list or they can send an adjuster to estimate the claim. I tell them my preferred shop (fixed my deer damage) and they say no problem, they’re on the list. I take it to him and the real story begins.
I’ll post more later, but any ideas so far?
1)Am I going to eat through these pads like the stock?
2)What caused the front – driver – inside rotor wear so much faster than the outside?
3)What the hell is this brown **** on the side of the truck!?
I’ve posted some pics. I was able to get the wheels clean with Comet, but didn’t want to dare use it on the paint. I know it might have messed up the clear on the wheel, but he body shop said they’d look at it and see what they can do. Note the pics are ~800KB each so you 56k people will need to take time.
Well, I've done gone and got something screwy. It started back in March. I heard my brakes start doing their little squeal. Went to have it check out and yep the pads were getting low. But also, the front rotors were cracked. So I started looking for some replacements. I tried to get by the dealer and see if they'd cover it... yeah right. They gave me that 12k mi crap. Oh well. End of April I put in an order to Ruslow for a set of his rotors (excellent btw) and Hawk Heavy Duty HPS Street pads (also great). Thing is rotors came in but the pads didn't come in till 1st week in May. 1 good thing, I as out of town 1/2 of April so I only drove it to work for total of 2 more weeks. Boy what a horrible sound. Metal on metal sounds terrible. Turns out the driver’s side rotor inside had worn down to all metal on metal. Not a shred of pad left. Strange how the outside pad still had ~1mm of pad all the way across. Q: How did this happen? Well found a shop to swap all 4 rotors & pads, pack bearings for $100. Not bad. (I would've had help to do it myself, but mechanic buddy wasn't available that weekend. I hadn't done it before, so wasn't about to strand myself.)
So I get home, now with wonderful brakes. Decide it was time to wash it. It had been couple months and she was looking dirty. I get to washing and notice something that won’t come off. I scrub and have to scrub really, really hard to get it to somewhat go away. I look and all down the drivers side, hood, some front bumper, down the bed side, and even most of the tailgate is this very ruff, brown material that just won’t come off. I get to the passenger side, and it’s nowhere near as bad, maybe not even at all. I start to wash the wheels, and front driver wheel has something all stuck on it that won’t come off. I talk to a few buddies and we get some ideas, but still don’t really have a clue.
So I call my Insurance and say that something has gotten all over the truck’s driver side from front to back and I think I have driven through something that splashed up and covered the side in the rainy weather. They say, that sort of thing is covered under comprehensive. Yeah! I put in the claim, they call, get it taken care of. All I got to do is take it to a body shop on their list or they can send an adjuster to estimate the claim. I tell them my preferred shop (fixed my deer damage) and they say no problem, they’re on the list. I take it to him and the real story begins.
I’ll post more later, but any ideas so far?
1)Am I going to eat through these pads like the stock?
2)What caused the front – driver – inside rotor wear so much faster than the outside?
3)What the hell is this brown **** on the side of the truck!?
I’ve posted some pics. I was able to get the wheels clean with Comet, but didn’t want to dare use it on the paint. I know it might have messed up the clear on the wheel, but he body shop said they’d look at it and see what they can do. Note the pics are ~800KB each so you 56k people will need to take time.
Well Ruslow, you got at the first glace just like the body shop. I think it was metal on metal was dumping a lot of shavings. When it rained all that acclumated dust was 'washed' up on the side of the vehical. He's talked to a few shops and his paint guy hoping for something that could bring it back out. But no luck. He's thinking for buffing that side and hopefully not have to wet sand it. If it comes to wet sand it, he said the factory clear would be verrrrrryyyyy thin and he'd re-clear it. But that would be couple of weeks in the shop and basicly have to disassemble the truck to get it all done right.
WTF!!! What do you think? Is this worth the wait? I believe Insurance would pay for it but thats just alot of work. And if it goes too thin he'd hit the paint and would have to repaint (ideas of paint job poped into my head) but man, with out the truck for ~3 weeks. I don't see how HDLINUM (sp) did it. 
Yeah, when I saw it, my first thought on the fix was CLAY BAR. But with insurance covering it, I figured Body Shop would do better than me. But the shop warns me that if they just buff it, it'll be reeeeaaaaall smooth and would loose alot of texture. Is this a bad thing? Y'all do this buffing & polishing alot. Is it bad to be smooth. Is it really smooth or is it not really noticeable.
Should I ask the guy to try Clay Bar and Zaino/CWW?
HELP
Tell me what you recommend!!!
--------------------------------
Anybody know any goooood detail shops in the Atlanta area? Maybe they got some good ideas.
Last edited by mocklab; Jun 6, 2003 at 12:10 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 102
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From: Urbana IL 61801
Man could'nt all of this been eleminated by not driving the truck with metel to metal isues?? Not bashing on you or anything man, not to mention that it really wasnt that safe to drive either...
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 164
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From: Central Florida
try this place:
http://www.properautocare.com/
Lots of great products there. Check out the clay bar kits. Essentially what you have in the paint is like rail dust than can get on the truck when it is shipped. The only way to get that off is with the clay bar. It's very easy to do and works like a charm. Some clay bars are better than others. I prefer the ones they sell. Make sure you get the clay bar spray lubricant as well.
Jim
http://www.properautocare.com/
Lots of great products there. Check out the clay bar kits. Essentially what you have in the paint is like rail dust than can get on the truck when it is shipped. The only way to get that off is with the clay bar. It's very easy to do and works like a charm. Some clay bars are better than others. I prefer the ones they sell. Make sure you get the clay bar spray lubricant as well.
Jim
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 342
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From: Grayson, GA
Originally posted by Rumba83
Man could'nt all of this been eleminated by not driving the truck with metel to metal isues?? Not bashing on you or anything man, not to mention that it really wasnt that safe to drive either...
Man could'nt all of this been eleminated by not driving the truck with metel to metal isues?? Not bashing on you or anything man, not to mention that it really wasnt that safe to drive either...
For anybody else out there; If you think for a second that your brakes are scrubbing low, get it fixed. I only went ~3 weeks total with them obviously bad. Yes it did stop (safely). Not as good as new, but it did stop.
Anyway, still looking for a good, professional detail shop. Someone that knows how to use things like Clay Bar. Not just a bunch of kids that can wax.
Anybody know of such a place?
Insurance is now thinking it's rail dust. Maybe it just took a while to show up. So they say it should be a dealer issue. (Personally don't think it is. It's on the new aftermarket hood. Not there when @ dealer.) See what they say. That site (www.properautocare.com) gives a good detail of rail/brake dust contamination. States that Clay Bar is the exact thing to get it off/out. This, and Zaino, are the first sites that references rail dust. Give'em a few credit points for that. If this insurance things falls through, I'll be doing some clay baring.
Thanks for all y'alls help
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Limestone TN
Metal dust
That's a really bad case of metal dust. Clay bar should remove it with a little elbow grease, but be sure to use plenty of detail spray/lubricant with the clay bar. I have a couple of friends who work at a foundry and that dust is terrible on paint, it seems to imbed itself into it. After almost ruining the paint on their good vehicles they invested in a beater and now they carpool. What used to be a white Ford Ranger now looks practically orange from the daily dusting it gets.