Well I drove to work yesterday and when I got to work I had a miss. I drive to work on the Highway about 2 hrs away. I was driving 70-90 mph all the way. I do not remember doing any kind of major boost. I pulled the plugs. #5, #6, #8 fryed. I changed them and it seems to idle ok. I might have got lucky this time.Ok so here I go agian. I have replaced A bent valve 2800 miles ago and a burned valve 800 miles ago. I guess I'm getting a little tired of this crap. There's got to be a program that I can drive without putting 110 octane in to stop detonation. I suppose I need a #2 lower for my interchangable pulley. Chip reburn and # 2 pulley. Tim do you have a #2 pulley to go with this #6?

 

Tim,

There seems to be several quick ways to toasted plugs. Whatever can cause your engine to run "lean" even for
a short time is apparently the biggest culprit. Clogged
fuel filters seem to be a prome candidate, but I know
there are some others.

Not much help, but you have my sympathy. I toasted
plugs on a "safe" summer tune, and never did actually
pin the culprit down.

Cliff

 

Burnt plugs is a good sign of to much timing. What was good for cooler weather isn't so good for the summer. Might want to tone down your street program for the summer with a little less timing in your chip burn.

 

Is it just on tip in or at WOT? Wouldnt a bad EGR cause it?

 

Here's a comment from Superchips Dist. on the 'Computer Chips' forum about different brands of gas which is the first thing to check when detonation occurs:

"That's a tough choice in some places! The answer depends on location, basically. Anywhere West of about Texas or so, Chevron seems to be doing the best job overall, certainly where premium octanes are only 91. Here in the East, we have more choices in 93 octane premiums, so I prefer Citgo, Amoco, Texaco & Shell.

In Texas, if you have Conoco available, that's worth trying, as is Sunoco, & of course, Texaco. Shell doesn't seem to work as well out West as it does here in the East.

If you really want to see which is the better fuel in *your* area of Texas between Chevron & Shell, burn a few tanks of each, carefully tracking fuel mileage for each tank, and the fuel with the highest mpg under the same basic driving conditions wins."

Having said that, here are the other possibilities:

2. Ignition timing incorrect

3. Carbon build-up(from unwanted intake oil?) in the combustion chambers--remove cyl. heads and scrape away the carbon--or go to a shop that has a chemical cleaning machine........

4. Incorrect spark plugs(?)

5. Fuel inj. or eng. control systems malfunction

6. Restricted exhaust

FWIW, I use Texaco, Amoco, and Shell 93 oct. with a 5 lb pulley, NGK BR7EFs, Fast Air, 160* 'stat, 3 different chips and have never had detonation in the summer or in the winter.

Dan

 

I'm a little confussed
Does it usually run good with that program ????
If it does and now all of a sudden you have problems

THEN

YOUR FUEL FILTER OR INJECTOR/S ARE CLOGGED

THIS

EQUALS THIS

That was when truck was BRAND NEW
The filter clogged up sometime after 3k and I didn't think of it CAUSE IT WAS BRAND NEW. Went racing at 5k and toasted the plugs.


If you just have too much timing then why are you using that program for a street program.
I run 18 degrees of timing on pump gas with 6lbs of pulley with no detonation or troouble as a street / strip ALL GAS program.
Then I have my Nitrous Program set at 15/16 degrees for Street/WOT/Nitrous Race program.

If your running more than that as a street program DON'T

 

You should probably spend some money on an air fuel meter and a scan tool. Those are the two best things I have bought for my truck. I would never have blown my first engine If I had both of those. I can see what my air fuel is anytime and check the timing to make sure the chip setting is correct. Today I am running 22 psi boost on 93 octane at 12.5° timing. I would never try that if I didn't know what the timing and air fuel was. I have only burned one plug since the engine was put in at the beginning of April. I have about 7K miles on it since. All hard miles on the street and track. I burned that plug last week trying a program with 16° timing on 93 octane. It was a TR6. I havene't burned any TR6's with the 12.5° program and the 22psi pullies...

 

Check your timing. My truck won't take much more than 12 degrees on 93 octane. Every truck is different, some can take more timing than others. Sounds wierd, but true.

 

easterisland

I'm confussed
Stock timing is 11 degrees ???????????????????
How could you be burning plugs at 12 degrees ?
Is that because of the massive PSI your running in that beast ?

I ran almost the entire 10k on my truck with 17 degrees including 4-5 months of freezing temps on pump gas without ever a sign of detonation or burning a plug (besides the clogged filter)
I even ran juice in 22 degrees with 17 degrees of timing with no detonation or problems. Now I run 18 degrees on pump gas with no problems with at least 15 -17 lbs of total boost.


I'm sooooooooo confussed, please explain my Brother

 

I can't run 14.5° without detonation and 93 octane.
I think you didn't read my post well or I was unclear. I burnt a TR6 at the track last week with a 16° timing program.

 

easterisland
Does that have anything to do with where you live compared to me ?

Or is it because of the massive Boost you have ?

I do run Ultra 94 only, but I know tons of people running 17 degrees or more of timing on pump gas with no problems ???

I have done massive testing with 10 differant Chip programs and differant timing to determain where I need to be. I know my truck is a pig with anything less than 16 degrees of timing (even on the juice) and I agree that for whatever reason, some lightnings clearly like more timing than others and run better with hi timing. Mine will fall flat on it's face and cut in and out with anything less than 16 degrees.

But just for safety reasons, I'm going outside right now and switching the switch to the Nitrous/WOT/Street Side
(15-16 degrees) I've been running 17 on the street for almost a yr so I know 15/16 is no problem.


But comes race day, l run 18 degree's .

I need my morning med anyway

 

I can run 26psi with C16 and 17° timing.
I just can't run 22 psi with 93 and anything more than 12.5°. 99SVT has the same basic mods I do so maybe there is something to that...I don't know.

 

I'd be happy to make you a chip Tim.

 

texas seems more prone to detonation problems than the rest of the country. Esp. South Texas. I dont know if its the weather or the gas or both, but I've had mail order chips from 4 vendors so far and EVERY one of them would ping at some point in the year. Look around and find a shop with a dyno in your area. Then see if they can alter the tune on your mail-order chip. A custom tune makes all the difference.

 

First I changed the fuel filter and it was clean, no problem there. There's no carbon on the heads or pistons. I have just cleaned them. My motor has been apart more times in 2800 miles then I want to admit. Saying that its possible my injectors could have some kind of restriction, from being apart twice. Whats the best way to clean them? Now I do need a Race program chip, Sal. Give me a little while I'm not ready to race yet, I need more confidence that my plugs and valves are not going pour out my exaust. My Ford machanic is in Austin at a biker meet so I'm unable to get my timing. I suppose I need to ask Jim if theres a top speed on this chip. Anything over say 70 mph and the timing goes up. I passed a truck on the highway yesterday, but I didn't hear detonation and I didn't have it to the floor, about 85-90 mph. I thought I was safe on the safe side of my chip. I will get it dynoed, real soon. Skankdog post those pics of the aftermath! I use only Texaco. Another thing is my air/fuel gauge is not going in the green as much as it did before I had it burned safe. I have been noticing that and it has been driving me crazy. I know its like a dummy light ,but 3 or 4 bars is something to check out. 98 percent of the time its in the yellow.