OK ... What you get for each side approximately 3 days from
your order ... Shipped DHL to my door was $120.00 ...



Closeups:



Bad A$$, huh?

 

Since we were under the gun to finish by 10 PM when my
neighbor has to go to bed (and it WAS his garage after all!)
I didn't document EVERY step that was taken. But the
instructions from BREMBO were excellent. The only thing
that I would do to improve is to give the specific torques
for all the Lightning bolts (PUN INTENDED!) because that
would have saved several walks across the street to the
FORD DVD at home.

Pad removal on these is gonna be VERY fast ... two little
retaining clip wires, then slide two SS pins out and the pads
fall out in your hands. Very NICE.



Now that's a CALIPER !!!

 

Remove the wheel. <grin> Then your truck will look something
like this:

Notice the "Baked" red now orange painted calipers? If you
paint yours, don't Road Race, or use REALLY high temp paint!!!

 

STEP 1: Remove the old stuff ...

If you haven't done this before, just follow these steps:

With a wide bladed chisel tipped screwdriver, remove the
dustcap from the end of the spindle.



Take the cotter pin out, remove the retainer nut and then take
the wheel nut off. This is about 17 ft lbs, so it basically just
eases off.



Now you should have just the spindle and the dust shield exposed:

 

STEP 2:

Prep for the NEW stuff:

Clean off the Caliper mounting bracket on the casting. There
is also some minute filing required sometimes depending on
the fitment of the NEW caliper mount. It must be clean and fit
without touching the casting. I had to file away a small piece
of "flashing" from the rear of the casting.

On the old hat, the inner wheel bearing must be removed. Too
lazy to walk up the street fro a wheel bearing puller, we just
set the rotor on two 2 x 4's and struck the bearing and seal out
with a socket extensions. You get a new bearing seal with the
kit, so this is not important. We did not get new bearings since
I only have 22K on the truck and they should be ok.

 

STEP 3: Check the torque steps for the new hat. These
are not given in the Brembo kit and came from the FORD
maintenance DVD. <grin>

Torque wheel nut to 30 ft lbs while spinning hat/hub.

Back nut off 2 turns.

Torque wheel nut to 20 ft lbs while spinning hat/hub.

Back nut off 175 degrees (1/2) turn.

Torque wheel nut to 17 ft lbs while spinning hat/hub.

Re-attach protecting nut keeper and cotter key

 

STEP 4:

Mount the banjo fitting using the included copper crush
washers, and leave this loosely attached so you can position
the outlet later. (HINT: It works best if it is pointed up toward
the center of the wheel. We had to readjust this AFTER
we blead the brakes because it hit the tire when we rotated the
steering wheel.

 

STEP 5:

Mount the rotors on the wheels, Mount the caliper
on the newly attached Caliper bracket, attach the
stainless brake lines. The brake lines are the
worst fitment part of the whole kit. The LEAST
they coulda done was to use the same type of
attaching points that the Lightning has on the A-Arm.

We are gonna fabricate some to replace the standard
ones which stayed on teh old brake lines. I'll post
a pic of that when we figure it out.

The Banjo nut torques to 15 ft lbs. The caliper bracket
bolts are 136 ft lbs, and the caliper nuts are 80 ft lbs.

The caliper nuts were not very tight in the socket and
as a result I rounded one on the right bottom at about
72 ft lbs. I hope that will suffice to hold it on.

 

Total elapsed time was about 4 hours. I have more pics
to add, but it is too late tonight .... I will finish tomorrow.



Best Regards, fellas ...

Cliff

PS .... Thanks so much for all your help, Jerry !!! You're one
of the best neighbors I ever had!!!!


This is backwards ... But we didn't notice until we tried
to put the dayum rotor on ... <grin> It wouldn't be a
wrenching partay, if we didn''t make at least ONE mistake.





And if THIS doesn't stop better on the course, I'll be VERY
disappointed <LOL>

 

Looks like all the placeholders are in so here goes .... FP!!!!!!!!

man, the suspense is killing me! The one post every 60 seconds rule sucks sometimes.

 

The pads need to be "bedded" in by driving and stopping
from different speeds (actually just applying the brakes
for 3 seconds) over the course of 15 miles or so. 1/2 mile
between application of the brakes. This tempers the
rotors at different temperatures and seats the pads.

After the final braking, they suggest you run for several
miles to cool all teh components down.

So I was rodding and braking around the Circle at 11:00 PM
last night. People prolly thought I was "under the influence"
every time I braked..... LOL

I can't wait to do a "140 - 0" stop ... HEH HEH HEH Maybe on
the way to work this morning

 

Very nice.... can't wait to see the rest....

p.s. what do you plan to do with the stock stuff?

 

You're saying that it cost you $120 to ship or it was $120 for everything you bought? If it was $120 for the rotors and calipers, where'd you get them?
Looking good.

 

The kit is over 3 grand. Last I saw anyway.

Lets see the pictures with the wheels on!

How does she feel on the track?

 

My pee-pee is getting hard!!!!