Bear with me please, friday I was driving my truck and I decided to flip to my aggressive program which I haven't had a chance to do yet, after about 30-45 seconds my truck started to run like *****. Accelerating away from a stop light, at half throttle or so, when it shifted into second at about 2500-3000 rpm the truck felt like it lost power and the front end actually felt like it nosedived. Then at the next light a few feet away I had to stop and the truck was now idling like crap, which it had never done before, at about 400-500rpm not 600 like usual. I pulled away and the same thing happened again, so I switched back to my street program and the truck seemed to recover while driving, but at stop lights if i sat to long it would start idling like crap again. Then I got to where i was going and turned off the truck, came back 20 minutes later, started up and the idle was so bad it threw the ses light.
Called and talked to 415cidgoose (Andy) and he said come over and i can diagnose with my scanner. Long story short, the code said lean bank one and two and he said the O2 sensors were not switching back and forth. He reset it but the ses light came back on when I restarted, even with the chip switched to off.
Took it to Ford today and they said the O2 sensors are fine, no vacuum leaks detected, and the cats are flowing. The tech unplugged my 90 mm MAF and the idle was as smooth as it was before, but now the ses light is on and the truck drives like absolute ***** except when coasting. If I plug it back in the idle sucks again but the truck runs smooth. I called Paul at REM, since I sent my chip in after this incident, and he said to try and clean the little wires inside the MAF with no-residue conductor cleaner and a q-tip. I did this but it still runs the same plugged in and unplugged. He is sending me another 90mm to WFC with Tim this weekend, but I cannot put my mind at ease that this is going to fix my problem.
One of the most important things in my life is ripping my heart out right now and I don't know what to do. I love my truck and it is killing me that I haven't fixed this problem yet. If anyone has any suggestions/comments/anything to held calm me down about this, I really need to hear it PLEASE.

Thanx everyone(sorry about the length),
Bill

 

"Four tube blue underbody neon kit"

There's the problem ... j/k

Are you sure the chip can be switched while running? IT
doesn't take much to screw up computers, you know.

I assume the battery has been unplugged with the lights on
and all the regular stuff....???

Best of luck ... Sounds like at least you have it narrowed
to the MAF. Can you run the 90 mm without a chip? I bet
that would lean it down ....

 

Have you physically taken the chip out and driven it ?


VINNIE

 

I would pull the chip, disconnect the battery and turn on the headlight switch wait 10 minutes reconnect and test. Can your chip be flipped on the fly? I going to a race program is your fuel octane high enough? Todd

 

Check the Fuel Filter

Maybe a bad tank of gas

"IF" it was triggered by the chip, it seems by switching the other program, you caused the computer to see something different.
I could see it trying to compensate, and possibly over or under compensate for it. But why it didn't go back to normal after taken it out doesn't make sence, and makes you wonder if it's the chip,
or damage somewhere else. Damage meaning a sensor, problemed computer, plug, hose, etc...

But of course if it shows lean, CHECK YOUR PLUGS, you may have cooked one or three .

You'd be surprised how good it can run on cooked plugs


You'd also be surprised how weird it can run with a clogged fuel filter


Of course the clogged filter is what cooked the plugs in my case

GOOD LUCK

 

Check the vacuum line to the EGR valve. Had mine rollbacked into the dealership for the same symptoms. I have seen it several times after my experience

 

Thanx guys, I have been told that you can flip programs on the Diablo Delta chips on the fly just not to the chip off side. I have tried to run with the chip on the mild program, switched off, and completely removed, with the battery unplugged and light switch on each time. It runs the same all the ways but with the chip removed the ses light does not come on at start up. I told Paul when he programmed the chip that I never wanted to have to run anything more than 93 octane, since this is my daily driver and I don't want to have to add octane booster. I just changed the fuel filter back in January and have driven only maybe 1500 miles since then. I thought about the plugs as well, but what doesn't make sense to me in all this is that if i unplug the MAF the idle returns to smooth as normal but then as soon as i plug it back in so i can drive it the idle goes back to ***** .
Also, I just remembered that while we were diagnosing the problem with his scanner, some girl and her boyfriend pulled up next to Andy and I in my truck at a stop light and commented that she did not like my truck because she thought that it stunk, all the while he was telling her to shut up because L's are awesome. This was odd at first but yesterday when I pulled into my garage after driving home with the MAF unplugged I noticed an unusual/strong odor as well .
Which line goes to the EGR valve and where is it located, I will try anything at this point. I dread the whole spark plug checking idea, but i'm sure i should since they have never been checked and are the original plugs.
Thanks again guys for your insite and suggestions and keep them coming if you think of anything else,
Bill

 

Here is a thread that shows the EGR.........

http://198.65.157.241/forums/showthr...ghlight=melted

Dan

 

Hey Dan, I don't want to sound like an idiot, but... is an EGR selinoid the same thing as an EGR valve? Also can this be cleaned or just replaced?
Thanx,
Bill

 

The EGR valve can be removed(get's VERY HOT!) and scraped clean. Use a screwdriver to get carbon out of the insides. Never wash the valve with a degreaser or solvent as they will destroy the diaphragm If it needs to be replaced, use the stamped code on the top of the valve to be sure you get the correct one.

I think the "solenoid' referred to by Don's Bolt in the thread I posted is really the DPFE sensor..............

Dan

 

Just in case anybody wants to know what happened the hose that goes from the MAF boot to the driver side valve cover pulled out of the elbow and was causing my problem. Sal from PSP at WFC6 came over to my truck and found it with his keen eye in about thirty seconds. Thanks to all that tried to help and a big F-You to the ford mechanic that had my truck for 3 hours and said "there was no vacuum leaks and in was definately my aftermarket(ford) 90 mm MAF". Also, huge thanks to Sal for taking time out of his day to come and help out a fellow lightning owner.

Bill