When lowering the rear of a L using 2" shackles, do you have to cut the swaybar end links? I've seen posts of some who did. It seems to me that the bars just rotate in the mounts to compensate for the rear end being higher, and nothing seems to hit, the bar has plenty of room around the pumpkin.

For anyone who did cut them, what did you gain? Thanks

 

While it has room, etc, the geometry is no longer correct. Not saying that it's BAD, just not as good as it COULD be.

And, why cut the end links? Brand new ones are pretty cheap.

You should notice a pretty decent difference once the endlink length is correct.

 

Its not the hitting we are worried about. The bar works best at level. So if you lower 2 inches you should take out 2 inches to maximize the efficiency of the bar .....or something.


Also you could just drill a hole 2 inces higher in the frame and remount the endlinks. A couple guys have done that.



Hope this helps.

VINNIE

 

What kind of ride difference are we talking about here? I've only had the 2" drop shackles on for a short time, but I haven't noticed anything strange .

 

Duoconsulting: Did you lower yours and then cut the links? Or just posting what you have heard (really, no offense intended, just asking if you have first hand knowledge here)

If you think about how a sway bar works, it shouldn't matter that you've changed the height of both ends, it only transfers weight (or force) when one side is lifted and the other is forced down, like in cornering with roll angles.

Am I making sense here?

 

Yes, my truck is lowered. Belltech 3/4 kit. When I first put the kit on, it handled no better than stock, if as good.

Replaced the endlinks, and it handles better than ever. Not just a slight difference, it's quite an extreme one, but I would assume that it's because I went so low.

What you say makes sense, but it's not 100% the case. As Vinnie said, the sway bar should be level, to do its job. Suspension geometry, not just center of gravity and stiffness, plays a HUGE role in how your vehicle handles. The sway bar is not capable of transferring weight in the same manner, when it is repositioned.

Also, it's not just a matter of opinion, or 'a few people noticed a difference', it's a matter of mathematical fact, and that you WILL notice a difference.

Ruslow really needs to get in on this thread, I'm sure he could do a MUCH better job of explaining than I can.

 

Think about it at the extreme. What if the axle were dropped until the bar was completely vertical? Changing the angle of the bar vis-a-vis the up-and-down axis of travel of the rear axle changes the effective rate of the bar. Shorter end links correct this.

 

Tim has a very nice page on suspension.
But just drilling holes 2" difference on the frame is the easiest route to go.

 

Has anyone thought of cutting down the end links, and then threading the two ends to make them adjustable?

 

I have the BellTech 3/4 kit with the rear set at three inch drop. While my truck was at JDM they drilled two new holes 3" higher and mounted the factory endlinks there. I was just looking at it after reading this thread so I thought I would reply with how mine was down.
Bill

 

Think of it this way.. The sway bar is basically twisting(in torsion) when one side raises and the other doesn't.

It's about the components of the force you are exerting on the actual eyelet on the sway bar. The force is going to be vertical(simplified but works) and if the bar is horizontal then the immediate force is all pushing it upwards(since the actual path of the bar is an arc it will never ALWAYS be directly vertical).

Once you get past the first few moments and the bars at an angle like this : "/" then only parts of the force are actually acting on the bar to move it up or down. The other components of the force are actually trying to sheer the bar itself, instead of creating the torsional force that (in a perfect world) would be the only existant force.

This is kinda simplified, but ya kinda get the point.. You want the link always perpendicular to the bar itself, but this changes(why you have rubber bushings)...

 

AHHHHHH

See, I was gonna cut the longer sleeves the length I needed to make the bar level.

At a slight angle I notice a big difference from stock (not having a bar at all on my 02 hd)

But from what your saying (mathematically) ill gain significantly by using the correct size endlinks.

Looks like Im back to work next weekend

-TeK

 

Lightning struck 93: Explained that way, I see your point. By lowering the truck, with stock length endlinks you haved effectivly "shortened" the lever arm which makes the bar twist. This makes the bar less effective.

Guess I'm drilling some new holes this weekend. Thanks

 

He said vis-a-vis

 

Please note that the rear bar is NOT level, but in fact has a pronounced downward tilt. Lowering increases this tilt.

You want to restore the same tilt after lowering. Truly leveling the bar would require REALLY short end links and would result in sway bar geometry different from stock.