I got my chip back from Sal and it is a disaster like most of my mods on the 03 have been. I took out the PCM and cleaned the contacts with scotchbrite and re-installed the PCM with the chip installed. First time through the gears at WOT truck stumbles or at least does not accelerate like it should for a second or so at between 4100 and 4300 RPM's in second gear (does not do this in first gear). After getting past this it goes back to normal acceleration until it gets to the shift point where it intermittently (sometimes yes and sometimes no) hits the rev limiter (I guess that's what is happening) and shuts down until the shift and then runs perfect until we get to the 4100-4300 rpm range in third where it will either run perfect or shut down the engine with the theft light flashing until I turn it off and restart it. I took the PCM back out and recleaned the contacts with sandpaper until the contacts were all a perfect copper color and re-installed the chip. Took the truck out again and had no boost no matter how many times I tried (also the O/D light was flashing). Pulled over and turned off the truck and re-started it and now I had boost but still had the other problems! Got to work and as I was turning off highway truck dies. I restart drive into driveway and pull the F'ing chip back out. Truck runs perfect without chip (except I still have SES light for not enough airflow to EGR,). Yes I do pull battery lead before installing the chip. Any ideas? I think I'm snake bit

Jerry

 

I have an 03 with one of Sal's 4-way chips. I feel the hesitation in third gear (full throttle) about the rpm range you speak of, but I THINK it's the convertor locking.

I do have an issue when flooring it around 25-30 mph where it will still kick down into first gear. Three times now it has run up to the rev limiter (my opinion) before it will upshift into second gear. This shuts the engine off for a split second and really gets your attention. I called PSP this afternoon and they need me to pull the chip and give them the number as they're all different. My opinion is they SHOULD know what they sold me. I gave them the year of the truck and the mods and octane of the gas (California); they've got to know what tuning is in the chip or how did they sell it to me in the first place?!!!!

Mine does not have all the other symptoms yours has. It does sound like a loose chip though.

Jody

 

Jerry

I had some problems with an autologic chip. It was on a 99 however. It would shut down when I was in it and I would have to put it in neutral and crank it back up. After a couple times of this I pulled the chip and clean the contacts. I also pressed the chip contacts inward. They flex a bit and I felt this helped insure
a snug fit. Also, the PCM bracket needs to be taken out and flattened in the area it infringes on the chip. I had problems also with the chip not allowing for a cold start. this was in the winter in Alabama and by no means was that cold. I felt that the contraction due to the cold was significant. Duck tape and insure the chip is not pressed against anything that could dislodge it.
Vibration may loosen it enough to cause problems. I have an older 2 way Autologic. Give Sal a call. I positive he will help trouble shoot the issues.

Looks like you have become addicted to more better stuff.

Jeff

 

Did you modify the bracket that holds the computer?

If not, then the chip is hitting the bracket and probably causing your troubles. Hope its an easy fix as that

 

I have that problem intermittently in the middle of second gear at full throttle. I know mrinaldi has it and I even heard it on the video Vinnie posted of his 11 second pass last year.

All the other problems you are having...I have no idea. Sounds like a bad connection or as gator said. I know you said you cleaned the contacts with scotchbrite but also try some contact cleaner or blow it out with air. I noticed a lot of residue from the scotchbrite when I first did mine. Good luck.

 

Thats what I would look at first.

The Autologic and Superchip need this done, the diablo does not.

It will cause funny things to happen with your truck when the chip moves around.

There is no problem with any of the chips when they are installed right. I had ALL types of chips in my 01 but the Autologic was in there for the most amount of time with no issues.

Like Gator said, make sure that is done right, and I would also TAPE your chip in STRAIGHT and tight.

Im sure Sal will help you anyways he can, just make sure you do your part...

 

We are currently looking into a possible issue with RF noise interfering with the chips. It seems to be only affecting multi-program chips, not singles. We are thinking the switch and wires are acting like an anntenna. I've had several customers who wanted to help cut the harness and switch off and they no longer had the problems. So we are pretty sure it's an RF thing. I am working on updating the harness with a ground sheild. We have been able to fix the problem, now we just to "make a fix" FOR the problem. People permanently removing thier 4 way boxes and harnesses is NOT an option for me. As for Jody, I will check your programs. It's not that we DON'T know your programs, it's just that when you called today, I could not stop what I was in the middle of to fish through the files for yours. If you had the filenames off the chip handy, I might have been able to scoot over to the tuning laptop and check, but at that time, I couldn't stop what I was doing. There is a Ford calibration glitch that causes the redlined 1-2 upshift after a downshift. I usually fix that in my programs, it may be possible that it's still there in yours. Either way, I will do what I can to resolve the issues, PSP customers know I always take care of my people!

 

Hey Sal,

I work for a company who tests for EMC (Electromagnetic compatability), RF emisions and susceptibility. Maybe we can do some testing for you.
company website

 

Sal,

You definitely seem like a stand-up guy. I probably could have worded it better than I did. I was just frustrated as I know what it's doing, just not sure what controls it. trans through the computer or if the chip controls the shift points. Couldn't explain it very well to the lady at your shop either. It made sense in my head!!!!!!!!

I'd appreciate it when you get a chance if you can find out if my chip still has the Ford glitch in it.

Thanks again.

Jody

 

Might be a little pain in the butt now but rest assured,You are in GREAT hands with Sal.He one of the tuners who really cares about his customers and WILL take the time to make it right!

 

do all of you guys take a nice big piece of duct tape and tape that chip down to the computer tight?

just wondering cause thats the way I always have done it to assure it doesn't move and fall out on you.

Sal is the man and he'll figure it out guys, don't worry.

 

First off, I have complete confidence that Sal WILL fix my problem! He has given me so much extra customer service in the last four years that I buy every part I can fom him
This is the same chip that was in my 99 (unless Sal did not send my exact chip back). I NEVER modified my PCM brkt on the 99 and NEVER taped it either and NEVER had a single problem in three years. After having trouble the first time with the 03 I cleaned the PCM contacts again and taped the chip in with metal duct tape, very tight. Still I had all these problems. On the problem at 4100-4300 in second it feels the same as the 99 felt at 100 MPH at the end of the 1/4 mile. Sal found a problem on all the 99's at that speed and fixed it. I have no idea what to do now. What do I need to modify on the PCM brkt?

Also on my 99 I picked up .5 in the 1/4 with a chip. My 99 felt like a turd without the chip. This 03 feels much stronger without a chip than the 99 but I did not notice much difference in power with the chip in the 03. Should I feel a big difference with the chip installed like I did on the 99? Sal, you said you were going to make my 1-2 shift harder since the F/T valve body did not do enough for that shift.....I could not tell any difference with or without the chip. Do you think I should make Greg replace the valve body as he has offered?

One more thing I just noticed: without the chip my truck shifts at 4900 out of first and at 5000-5100 out of second and third. What the hells up with this? Sorry for so many questions but I want my truck to run right!


Jerry

 

I have had the RF problem with H2S poison gas sensors. When our boat would get close and transmit high band stuff it would send the sensors into alarm. Shielding was the cure. These were
a new brand and model that we more or less trouble shot and the manufacturer lined it out.

I have the 2 way and always forget the program in either position.

hot street or the Top end timing retard....

Sounds like I'll be cutting off the excess and leaning over to swap.

Could you set up an IR remote....heheheheh

 

Damn.....its amazing the things ya learn around here.

Sal.....I may be an RF problem child also. The 4-way that I got from you awhile back went thru a very short trial period and I pulled it. Didn't have time to play around, however it does seem to run good in another truck. It seemed to have some of the problems described here.
Dale

 

I too have had problems with my Autologic 4-way flip chip, my truck would completely cut off at WOT! I could be driving down the highway at 100+ mph and the truck would literally just cut off and die. the odometer would go blank and the theft light would start flashing. I would have to actually turn the key off and do a key cycle before the truck would restart. it would cut off sometimes just backing out of a parking space.

I talked to Sal about this and he told me to cut the wiring harness and switch box off of the chip.

he instructed me on how to hardwire the chip for each of the 4 programs and this took care of my problem as far as the cutting off concern.

I have had the chip this way (switchless/harnessless) for several months and it has not cut off even once.

as a side note, I don't know if it has anything to do with this radio interference problem, but my truck has a pretty elaborate stereo system with satelite radio, gps navigation system, dvd player, amplifier and speakers. I wonder if all of this extra electrical equipment might be contributing to the problem with the chip?

I need to send the chip back to sal to try a fix with the harness so I can have my switch options again, it is really a pain in the *** to remove the chip and rewire the harness everytime I go to the track and go home (ie: every time I need to change programs)

It's not Sal's fault i'be been driving around for months on one program, I just haven't taken the time to send the chip back. it is a pain in the *** and I hate driving around without a chip.

frankly, I think that Sal or Autologic should be replacing the chips that are having a problem instead of farting around with "fixes". it seems as though it is a chip problem since not all of them are doing this, but I may be wrong.

In Sal's defense, it may not be as simple as replacing the chip, it may be a vehicle problem. I bought my chip used from beefcake and he apparently never had this problem on his 01 (or 02?) truck.

that is the main reason I haven't caused a stir about this because I did by the chip used from a private party. If I had paid full price for a brand new chip and was having this problem I'd be a lot more vocal about getting the problem resolved in a more timely manner.

as for the rev limiter concern, my truck does it too and I hate it. I had not discussed this with sal yet, but on the 1-2 upshift at WOT oftentimes my truck feels like it's bouncing off of the rev limiter once two or even three times before it finally shifts. it does this on all of my programs including my race program. it can't be helping my 1/4 mile times (not to mention hurting my truck) and it sounds like crap on the street.

sorry for the long post.

I know Sal is a knowledgeable guy and has good customer service and will take care of these issues, just give him a chance.


later,
chris